Tandberg 3011/3001 tuner - nylon gear replacement

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I see from other posts that there doesn't seem to be a replacement nylon gear available when it eventually goes bad on these Tandberg models. Mine not only split, but half (or looks like just more than) is now gone/MIA. Therefore trying to determine any specs I can for a replacement option. From what I can measure for certain, it is 2.5 mm thick, and what I am estimating from the piece remaining is.

2.5mm center bore
7mm total diameter (edge of gear teeth)
20 or 21 teeth in total (leaning towards 20, but very hard to count/estimate)

Any help or direction would be extremely appreciated.
 
Pics posted

There are many nylon gears available in fax machines printers and scanners... If you don`t present a picture of actual gear, you will narrow the replies you are going to get...

Here are all the pics I can scrounge. In the first I used windows snipping tool to show the location of the white gear on the tuner potentiometer. Second is all I have left of my gear, removed/placed on a table.

imgur: the simple 404 page
 

PRR

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Joined 2003
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Old Nylon goes bad. Even if you found another donor unit, its gear will be at end of life.

Scrap of PCB-stuff, steady drill, small triangular file..... you could cut a gear by hand.

Blob of modeling clay. 2.5mm stick. Press your half into the clay, turn half way, press again. Good light, magnifier, sharp stick, work out the flaws. Pour plastic resin. Finish with the small file.
 
Gotcha! Good advice and will at least get it pressed that way to measure up correctly (teeth and mm sizing). If I can't buy anything off of Aliexpress, or somewhere else random, I'll go this route and make my own for sure.

Hi, Been waiting to read the replies to see what came up. I will second the idea of cutting your own replacement gear. As a clockmaker and restorer with many years at it I have made a bunch of gears and segments of gears for wooden works clocks with great success. I suggest finding some old mahogany from furniture like book shelves. Once you have a suitable sized piece sand it down thin enough to make it into plywood with wood epoxy or similar adhesive making sure the plies are cross grained. You don't want the teeth snapping off. 2 plies should be OK. Transfer your design and go to work with a jeweler's saw and needle files. You don't say or show whether it is a driving gear or a driven gear. If you hold your wooden blank by a temporary axle you can check your progress against the mating pinion. I would not recommend using phenolic or fiberglass PCB material. Either of them would likely chew up the mating gear pretty badly
Good luck, I am sure you will enjoy the effort..

BillG
 

PRR

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Joined 2003
Paid Member
In this day of 3-d printing and supercomputers to optimize tooth profiles, going at a bit of scrap with a needle-file seems inconceivable.

I was going to write-up the mass production of wood clock gears in Connecticut; notoriously Eli Terry's 3000 clocks a year with mostly low-skill workers. (Before that each clock was a custom build.) Of course Terry made a lot of guide-jigs and also a milling machine, so not a one-off job. My family started at affiliated chores in the brass factory; my grandfather collected many-many wood clocks. Filing little teeth is perfectly possible, but tedious, but doesn't need much space.

I don't tune my radio enough to wear the gear; maybe sdineen will. And not a comparable job, but--- the cam-drive gear in the Ford Flathead was a cloth-Bakelite composition very much like phenolic PCB stuff. These seem to last forever. (The stuff has gone out of style-- new replacements are Aluminum and accuse the fiber of being "weak".) OTOH this wore against a steel crank gear and was flooded with oil, and was a little large for its load to get enough center spacing over the crank.
 

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....."I don't tune my radio enough to wear the gear; maybe sdineen will."

Well, unfortunately, I would like to tune it at least twice... :) I only tuned it once before noticing it would not turn smoothly, after salvaging it from a trash heap. In fact, I noticed it has a few indentations from where someone tried to force it. After trying a few things with resetting screws and lubrication, I took a hard look at this gear, and eventually found a few other folks looking for a replacement as well. I did get stations the first time so would like to get it working if I can, and at this point actually will trying making the piece "old school" and will report back.
 
....."I don't tune my radio enough to wear the gear; maybe sdineen will."

Well, unfortunately, I would like to tune it at least twice... :) I only tuned it once before noticing it would not turn smoothly, after salvaging it from a trash heap. In fact, I noticed it has a few indentations from where someone tried to force it. After trying a few things with resetting screws and lubrication, I took a hard look at this gear, and eventually found a few other folks looking for a replacement as well. I did get stations the first time so would like to get it working if I can, and at this point actually will trying making the piece "old school" and will report back.

Bravo!
BillG
 
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So, before I lost the SECOND half of the nylon gear, making my mold, I did take a picture and photoshopped it. I will post later. Also, as I see other references on the internet asking for a "parts list" I found a treasure trove, posting link here: http://www.sportsbil.com/tandberg/ Go to URL then just search on page for your model (or if using PC, Ctrl+f). Seems to have everything 3011, 3001, you name it.

Regarding my status, the modeling clay SHRUNK when drying, so..... currently waiting on a boat load of small gears from china and hoping to find what I need. So far took apart MULTIPLE transistor radios, 4 track tape players, scanners, printers with no luck/ working match.
 
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