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Making a Temaad 12 inch Uni-Pivot Tonearm
Making a Temaad 12 inch Uni-Pivot Tonearm
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Old 3rd June 2018, 02:01 AM   #1
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Default Making a Temaad 12 inch Uni-Pivot Tonearm

Hi, In a previous thread I discussed what type of tonearm I perhaps would be able to make & after much reading I decided to try my hand at a Temaad 12 inch arm.
Quite unique to many other tonearm manufacturers, that they offer a kit arm & also you can buy a set of engineering drawing for $50 enabling you to make up a proven design & therefore (well hopefully) there will be no trial & error.
Anyway I ordered the drawing & paid over my $50 & a couple of days later the guys at Temaad sent me the drawings through by email. There is also 3 pages of quite detailed instructions & tips on how the novice can get around not having access to industrial machinery.
I belong to a wood turning club, so I have access to a wood lathe & pedestal drill & sander, so hopefully this will be enough to get the job done. Unfortunately the wood turning only meets 3 times a month (never understood why 3 & not 4) for a couple of hours so progress may be a little so.
Still will keep you guys advised on how I get along.
Cheers
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Old 5th June 2018, 11:36 PM   #2
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Default End Weight

Hi Guy's, Well last night was the 2nd week of my arm build (this is going to be slow going I think, with only 2 hours a week available for machining time)
So after reading through the blurb of instruction sheets several times I decided to attack the End Weight first. As this could be problematic as I cannot machine metal on the equipment I have.
One suggestion in the paper was that an end weight can be made from wood & cavities filled with lead shot, (which I just so happen to have to have a couple of Kilo's)
So based on there drawing & the material (scrap wood) I have available. This is what I have come up with. It is made in 3 parts, 2 outer covers & the inside which has the holes drilled through it for the lead shot to be added. So far I have adhered 1 cover & sanded to profile. Today I measured on the wife's cooking scales the weight. Temaad recommend a weight range between 130 to 200 grams and this seems about right as my old Rega weight is 138 grams & my currents upgrade Rega End weight is 210 grams.

Well the unit measured out a 90 grams filled with lead, a little light, however when I add some bolts so substitute for the side bars & end stub I get up to 160 grams, so perhaps all will be well.
They also advise that a small end weight (as they show on the Merlin arm) can be easily used to further increase the overall weight if need be.

This weekend I will hit the hardware shops to find some Stainless steel or brass bolts to use as the 2 side stabilizing bars & end weight stub.

Cheers
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Last edited by tribute; 5th June 2018 at 11:41 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 6th June 2018, 06:51 PM   #3
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Very interested in all this, thanks for posting!
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Old 14th June 2018, 05:52 AM   #4
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Default Finished Counter Weight & End Stub

Hi Guy's. Well the other night I finally finished my counter weight & end stub.
End Stub
This is made from a 8mm Stainless steel bolt that had a long none threaded shank. So I cut off the head & threaded shaft that left 90mm of plain shaft which polished up using some sand paper with the shaft rotating in my electric drill.
Counter Weight side stabilization Bars.
Again I used a 12mm S/S bolt & cut the bars so they were each 30 mm long

I bought both of these from the local hardware store for a cost of $9.

I had late last week filled the wooden counter weight with lead shot & poured wood glue around the lead shot as I dribbled the shot into place in the counter weight rear holes. Allowed it to dry for a couple of days, then sanded flat & stuck on the rear wooded counterweight cover inplace, again allowing to dry before sanding.

The after cutting the above bars I glued the 12mm side bars to the wooden counter-weight with 2 pot Areldite.

Added the End Stub & locking screw and weighed the assembly at 158 grams, which is well within Temaad's recommendations.

Next week I have decided to try to tackle the base which should be plain sailing as it is made of wood & Centre stub which I will need to go shopping for.

Cheers
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Old 20th June 2018, 08:31 AM   #5
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Default Base plate made

Hi guy's. Well a little more progress with the arm, last night I made the arms's base plate. This is the part that the arm post will sit in. Cheers
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Old 25th June 2018, 01:37 AM   #6
penkosey is offline penkosey  United States
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Nice work, looking great.
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Old 27th June 2018, 07:39 AM   #7
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Wink Arm Post this Week

Hi guy's, well this week I tackled the Arm Post, it actually gave me quite a problem, but I think the solution how worked out OK.
Temaad advise to use a 16mm dia bar, or buy a long 16mm shoulder bolt & cut it down. Well in my area, I live in quite a small town, I was not able to find either unless I wanted to buy a metre long bar. I thought I may be able to get a machine shop to make one & was shocked when I got quotes of $175 to $225. Even Temaad's top of the line Arm Post only costs $125, but that's still to much for me at the present time. So I emailed Temaad & they suggested using a steel tube, tune down a wooden insert & then set a Stainless Steel countersink set screw into the top to make a pivot cup.
So with lick I had a old pipe just over 16mm dia, cut this to size & at my turning club turned down a wooden dowel to fit. The I drilled the wooden down to accept the S/S screw. I will then Areldite (2 pot glue) them together. To make the complete post.

Hopefully more next week, as I have to tackle the Main Body!!

Cheers
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Old 10th July 2018, 05:23 AM   #8
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Default More Progress

Hi Guy's. Well I have made some more progress with this little project.
Over the last couple of weeks I have tacked the Main Body & arm wand mounting boss.
I had quite a lot of trepidation about the Main Body, but with the tips from Temaad's instructions & help from a friend (he makes wooden egg cups!!) at the wood turning cup it all went quite easily.
The drilling of the trough hole & arm wand mounting boss is critical to any uni-pivot, but the guy's at Temaad had the perfect answer for how to do this job.
The drilling out of the main body was definitely made easier by my friends experience but basically it was not that difficult. All you need to do is progressively drill down the centre gradually increasing the size of your drill. But very carefully decreasing the depth that you drill the hole. Once that is done I used a small hand boring tool to smooth out the bumps left by the drill steps. In actual fact I think it would be OK to leave the internal un-smoothed, but I think it looks better smoothed out & am glad I made the effort.
When assembled & will coat the Main Body & Arm Wand Boss.

Next on the list of things to do is make the pivot point stylus, still that's for next week

Cheers
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Old 18th July 2018, 06:59 AM   #9
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Default Time for Uni-Pivot Stylus

Hi Guy's, Well did not get much done this week as I am just recovering from the flu. So I decided it was time to tackle Uni-Pivot Stylus.
Temaad give several suggestions on how to manufacture one of these & I choose what was for me the easiest option.
They explain that setting the depth of the Pivot point is critical to the performance & balancing of the arm assembly.
So they recommend using a thread to allow fine adjustment, 1st I raided my wife's sewing box & found a darning needle with a diameter of 1.5mm, this I broke off at about 20mm long. Then I needed to find a 4mm brass stud. Why brass, because it is easier to drill, so I found a 4mm threaded brass screw about 60mm long & cut the head off. Then in the wood lathe at the club I carefully drilled a 1.5mm hole into the centre of the brass stud about 15mm deep.
Now I used a 2 pot glue to adhere the needle into the brass stud & there you are a Pivot needle.

Next weeks I intend to try & tackle the arm wand

Cheers
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Old 1st August 2018, 02:08 AM   #10
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Default Tone Arm Wand this week

Hi guys, Well over the last couple of weeks I have been tackling the Tone Arm Wand. In actual fact I found it quite easy to make, however finding the correct tube was a little more difficult.

Temaad advise that the easiest path for the wand is either to use an ex-golf carbon fibre shaft (for medium mass arm) or a fishing rod (for low mass arm).
However they advise that whichever is used it should be low flex. As I am trying to match my medium mass Rega arm I went for the golf club shaft. So after searching maybe 10+ S/H shops I finally found a club that was labelled Stiff Shaft.

I stripped the rubber handle off of it then started cutting it up from the club face end until the inner diameter of the tube match the outer diameter of the Main Body boss.

The I measures forward 274mm & cot the top off,
Before I cut the tube I had produced to allow fitment of the headshell, I practiced a couple of times cutting the required profile on the remaining discarded tube. In actual fact using a fine tooth hack saw it was remarkably easy to cut & was quite please with the finished result. Sanded the sharp edges down & nearly done.

Next I needed to drill a 3.5mm diameter hole to allow the Head-shell attaching screw to pass through. Temaad warn that it is critical to get this hole central, so again I used the 2 previous trial cuts to practice drilling the hole in the centre. I was worth while to do this as my 1st attempt was well off. However the second one was much closer. I used this as a template to cut my tube and was pleasantly surprised that it came out just about deed centre.
Next as the tube had a couple on nick's on it plus some old labeling I sanded it down and spray painted it mat black,
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