I have only recently joined this forum and am very pleased with the help I received from Ingvar Ahlberg on my first posting regarding a problem with my Dynaco FM3.
Chile is a beautiful country; great for skiing, very nice and rapidly improving wines, but in terms of analogue audio we are really isolated at the bottom of the world here.
Several months ago, I purchased a Walker CJ61 turntable through eBay. It took me a while to get around to setting it up. First, because I discovered that I needed an arm with an integrated arm rest (no place to attach an arm post). Last weekend, I mounted a Stax carbon fiber arm that I had stashed away and forgotten. The cartridge is a Signet MR5.0e. I've tried to attach a picture, but since I'm new on this forum, I'm not sure if it will appear.
The electricity here in Chile is 240v 50HZ. Although the Walker came from Australia, I was wary about just plugging it into the mains (too many bad experiences) so I attached it to a variac beginning at 90v, pushed the "on" button on the table and slowly brought up the voltage. Nothing happened at 110, but at 127v, with a slight nudge the table turns at the correct 33 1/3 speed. My question is, might is this table designed to run on 240V? Would I be risking destroying the motor by increasing the voltage? Is there a way to discover what voltage the motor is designed for? I haven't had any luck searching for information on the internet.
Chile is a beautiful country; great for skiing, very nice and rapidly improving wines, but in terms of analogue audio we are really isolated at the bottom of the world here.
Several months ago, I purchased a Walker CJ61 turntable through eBay. It took me a while to get around to setting it up. First, because I discovered that I needed an arm with an integrated arm rest (no place to attach an arm post). Last weekend, I mounted a Stax carbon fiber arm that I had stashed away and forgotten. The cartridge is a Signet MR5.0e. I've tried to attach a picture, but since I'm new on this forum, I'm not sure if it will appear.
The electricity here in Chile is 240v 50HZ. Although the Walker came from Australia, I was wary about just plugging it into the mains (too many bad experiences) so I attached it to a variac beginning at 90v, pushed the "on" button on the table and slowly brought up the voltage. Nothing happened at 110, but at 127v, with a slight nudge the table turns at the correct 33 1/3 speed. My question is, might is this table designed to run on 240V? Would I be risking destroying the motor by increasing the voltage? Is there a way to discover what voltage the motor is designed for? I haven't had any luck searching for information on the internet.
Australian mains is 240V Hz.
Everything sounds fine for connecting 240V.
A 115V motor should start on its own by ~ 90V.
A 240V motor should start on its own at by ~ 180V.
I'd expect the voltage and frequency to be printed somewhere on the motor.
Also the voltage rating of the phase shifting capacitor should help.
sreten.
Everything sounds fine for connecting 240V.
A 115V motor should start on its own by ~ 90V.
A 240V motor should start on its own at by ~ 180V.
I'd expect the voltage and frequency to be printed somewhere on the motor.
Also the voltage rating of the phase shifting capacitor should help.
sreten.
Hi,
I got into the innards of the table and took a look at the motor. I have tried to enclose a picture, but when I click on "submit reply" I get the following response that tells me:
"The image that you have attached is too big. Please make it no bigger than 800 x 1200". I don't know how to do that. But this is what is printed on the motor: Sodeco Switzerland 110VAC 60HZ 3.5W
It would be great to have a good alignment template for my tonearm. The wand is carbon fiber. I have several pictures of it as well. Same problem for including a picture.
Bill
I got into the innards of the table and took a look at the motor. I have tried to enclose a picture, but when I click on "submit reply" I get the following response that tells me:
"The image that you have attached is too big. Please make it no bigger than 800 x 1200". I don't know how to do that. But this is what is printed on the motor: Sodeco Switzerland 110VAC 60HZ 3.5W
It would be great to have a good alignment template for my tonearm. The wand is carbon fiber. I have several pictures of it as well. Same problem for including a picture.
Bill
Hmmmmm......
Now it gets confusing.
A 110V motor can be used on 240VAC with the right series resistor.
And a 60Hz motor can be used with 50Hz with the right pulley.
You say it does run at the right speed.
If it doesn't run at the right speed you need a new pulley
or a 60Hz oscilator supply.
If it does run at the right speed measure the voltage across
the series resistor, it its ~ 50% then 240V should be fine.
Also measure the resistor value which will give you the current
and thus as you know motor voltage its power dissapation.
Correct operating current is likely to be ~ 10mA.
For 240V operation the resistor only needs to be high enough
to keep the motor within its power range, so by keeping track
of voltage and current you can confirm this.
sreten.
Now it gets confusing.
A 110V motor can be used on 240VAC with the right series resistor.
And a 60Hz motor can be used with 50Hz with the right pulley.
You say it does run at the right speed.
If it doesn't run at the right speed you need a new pulley
or a 60Hz oscilator supply.
If it does run at the right speed measure the voltage across
the series resistor, it its ~ 50% then 240V should be fine.
Also measure the resistor value which will give you the current
and thus as you know motor voltage its power dissapation.
Correct operating current is likely to be ~ 10mA.
For 240V operation the resistor only needs to be high enough
to keep the motor within its power range, so by keeping track
of voltage and current you can confirm this.
sreten.
If it runs at the correct speed, you are half way home and can forget about the marking of the motor.
You only have to step down the voltage with a suitable resistor. In my thorens, the winding is 10Kohm, so an external 10K power resistor does the job of making the voltage half the value. I would start with a high value resistor until I hit the correct value.
Well, actually I would build an oscillator as better solution. In my case, the mains is a bit slower than 50Hz, that's what my Metallica LP says
and can forget about the marking of the motor.You only have to step down the voltage with a suitable resistor. In my thorens, the winding is 10Kohm, so an external 10K power resistor does the job of making the voltage half the value. I would start with a high value resistor until I hit the correct value.
Well, actually I would build an oscillator as better solution. In my case, the mains is a bit slower than 50Hz, that's what my Metallica LP says
I want to thank everyone for helping me out with this problem.
I finally found a way to provide you with some pictures through a web-hosting site.
Please take a look at the motor and associated components at
http://img3.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img3&image=motorcapsres2.jpg
the large green resistor has "6K8 5%" on it. The resistance reads 5.67K between the two screw terminals where the resistors are connected. The pink cap is .22uF.
Should I apply 110 volts to the motor and then measure the voltage across the two resistors? (why there are 2 instead of just one I don't understand).
Bill
I finally found a way to provide you with some pictures through a web-hosting site.
Please take a look at the motor and associated components at
http://img3.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img3&image=motorcapsres2.jpg
the large green resistor has "6K8 5%" on it. The resistance reads 5.67K between the two screw terminals where the resistors are connected. The pink cap is .22uF.
Should I apply 110 volts to the motor and then measure the voltage across the two resistors? (why there are 2 instead of just one I don't understand).
Bill
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23699&perpage=15&highlight=&pagenumber=1
The picture is from the above thread you may find interesting,
note the top right hand corner, this a 240V 50Hz model.
As far as I know around 3K ohm is usual for 110V, 6.8K ohm is too high for 110V.
sreten.
P.S. the foam in the springs and the plastic tie if fitted have to go IMO.
P.P.S. you can only directly show JPEG or GIF
images that are less than 800 x 600 pixels.
The picture is from the above thread you may find interesting,
note the top right hand corner, this a 240V 50Hz model.
As far as I know around 3K ohm is usual for 110V, 6.8K ohm is too high for 110V.
sreten.P.S. the foam in the springs and the plastic tie if fitted have to go IMO.
P.P.S. you can only directly show JPEG or GIF
images that are less than 800 x 600 pixels.
Attachments
Here is an underside photo of the CJ16
http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img4&image=underside1.JPG
I sure would like to know how to improve the suspension springs - that foam is beginning to crumble and I'm sure it provides no benefit whatsoever.
Also, here is a photo of the more "public view" of the machine, along with the tonearm
http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img4&image=WalkerStax1.JPG
http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img4&image=underside1.JPG
I sure would like to know how to improve the suspension springs - that foam is beginning to crumble and I'm sure it provides no benefit whatsoever.
Also, here is a photo of the more "public view" of the machine, along with the tonearm
http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img4&image=WalkerStax1.JPG
Hi Bill
The arm seems to be UA 7 cfN, was available with alu tube, cf tube and straight cf tube, hold on to that arm! Sreten is right about removing the foam dampers in prings. It also pays to take a little time to adjust the suspension.
There seems to be a Dyna Pas 3 (old front), underneat, is that so?
The arm seems to be UA 7 cfN, was available with alu tube, cf tube and straight cf tube, hold on to that arm! Sreten is right about removing the foam dampers in prings. It also pays to take a little time to adjust the suspension.
There seems to be a Dyna Pas 3 (old front), underneat, is that so?
The arm is new out of the box. I installed a Sony headshell because it has lower mass than the original Stax and is easier to adjust the cartridge overhang.
Sharp eyes, there. The preamp I am currently using is indeed a Dynaco brass face PAS2. I haven't given in to temptations to "upgrade" it, although at the minimum I need to install a fuse (a strange oversight on the part of the designer). Before that, I was using a PS 4 unit with the outboard power supply - now on the shelf. It was convenient because it has a switch for MC cartridges as well as a three-position capacitance switch for MM cartridges. But since I was trying to get back to all tubes (using a pair of Dynaco MKIV amps), I decided to try to get transistor equipment out of the signal path. Speakers AR4a, that are a bit inefficient for the amps, given the room size and my desire to recreate the Royal Philharmonic in my living room. Also on the shelf are a pair of Electro-Voice 12" coaxials and one Electro-Voice 15" coaxial. They have remained there due to the incompatibility between their enclosure size requirements and my wife's notions of what is appropriate in the living room.
For the Walker turntable, I have measured the voltage through the doubled-up resistors with 113V coming from the mains and get 47.4VAC. Does that mean I can go ahead and give it the full 240V?
Sharp eyes, there. The preamp I am currently using is indeed a Dynaco brass face PAS2. I haven't given in to temptations to "upgrade" it, although at the minimum I need to install a fuse (a strange oversight on the part of the designer). Before that, I was using a PS 4 unit with the outboard power supply - now on the shelf. It was convenient because it has a switch for MC cartridges as well as a three-position capacitance switch for MM cartridges. But since I was trying to get back to all tubes (using a pair of Dynaco MKIV amps), I decided to try to get transistor equipment out of the signal path. Speakers AR4a, that are a bit inefficient for the amps, given the room size and my desire to recreate the Royal Philharmonic in my living room. Also on the shelf are a pair of Electro-Voice 12" coaxials and one Electro-Voice 15" coaxial. They have remained there due to the incompatibility between their enclosure size requirements and my wife's notions of what is appropriate in the living room.
For the Walker turntable, I have measured the voltage through the doubled-up resistors with 113V coming from the mains and get 47.4VAC. Does that mean I can go ahead and give it the full 240V?
Goosebump equipment!
Mk IV, aha, AR 4, i´ll look up the Lange´s and my last pair of The Ski and head for the Andes, skiing season on the way right?
AR still remains among my favourite stuff, 1976 i got a pair of
AR LST´s as a gift from Acoustic Research and Ed Lief ( The Swedish agent) for retailing more AR speakers than any other shop. Fabulous but power craving, gawe them away a few Years later as they needed wallmounting and that was unconvenient at the time. Still regretting this, my friend still happy with them.
My Wife agrees on most speakers and other strange stuff in the livingroom, also flowers wine and shrimps work wonders.
Mk IV, aha, AR 4, i´ll look up the Lange´s and my last pair of The Ski and head for the Andes, skiing season on the way right?
AR still remains among my favourite stuff, 1976 i got a pair of
AR LST´s as a gift from Acoustic Research and Ed Lief ( The Swedish agent) for retailing more AR speakers than any other shop. Fabulous but power craving, gawe them away a few Years later as they needed wallmounting and that was unconvenient at the time. Still regretting this, my friend still happy with them.
My Wife agrees on most speakers and other strange stuff in the livingroom, also flowers wine and shrimps work wonders.
, sparks 
,and a 
motor?- Status
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