capacitance
what UF did you use for the upgrade of the capacitors?
Please advise.
Thanks.
For a few days (still running in) I have the D. Klimo LAR (clone) phono preamp from BRZHifi with upgraded Mundorf Supreme caps and IMHO you have to spend a lot of money to improve this
Record player is the Technics SL-1500C with an Ortofon M2 Bronze cartridge
https://picturepush.com/public/16364742
https://picturepush.com/public/16364748
https://picturepush.com/public/16364749
what UF did you use for the upgrade of the capacitors?
Please advise.
Thanks.
Good Afternoon, Denis:
From the photo that holco uploaded of the innards of his BRZ Klimo clone, there appear to be two sizes of Mundorf M-Caps. One pair are 3.3uf 410VA and the other four are .47uf 410VA. From the pictures of the insides of the seller's ad of these BRZ phono stages, they do show as a pair of 3.3uf 250V and four .47uf 400V. .Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Kingsley.
From the photo that holco uploaded of the innards of his BRZ Klimo clone, there appear to be two sizes of Mundorf M-Caps. One pair are 3.3uf 410VA and the other four are .47uf 410VA. From the pictures of the insides of the seller's ad of these BRZ phono stages, they do show as a pair of 3.3uf 250V and four .47uf 400V. .Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Kingsley.
Good Morning Mario/Holco:
Sorry to hear that you're abandoning your turntable system. Would have reached out and brought your unit but thought that the shipping costs would be very high/exhorbitant.
Well, here's the update. Guess your endorsement carries a lot of weight!
So, went ahead with re-ordering the BRZ Klimo clone during a small promotion/discount they were offering (during the first week of summer). Discount was a few dollars but got dinged on two fronts.
(The cost of doing business)
1. Fedex customs/duties fees of $38 (might have been because I asked the vendor to ensure that it arrived at it's destination and not get sent back because of carrier/courier issues).
(The not so good)
2. Poor packaging... the unit was wrapped in several layers thin sheetlike foam, a couple of layers of bubble wrap (thin type), and mucho packing tape. The result upon arrival? All four back corners of the casing (rear edges of the side panels) went bent and dinged (and not sure if they can be bent back without cracking or using heat). Might need to cut those rounded/curved fins/corners to make it flush/straight like the front end/edge. Good thing it's at the back and not readily noticeable. However, the rounded corners on thick front panel all suffered from damage/dings with the top left corner sustaining the most damage and having a gouge/metal shard. It's as if the thought to throw/drop the poorly package item each time it was handled during shipping was a laughing/careless matter. I could understand one corner (two at the most) but all eight corners? Goes to show that the vendor had not put much thought in the packaging/survival rate or had a grudge because the a dispute (and refund) of non-delivery of the first unit ordered (and maybe lost money from it?)
Hoping the machine shop at my workplace might be able to work out the kinks.
At any rate, the only saving take away from this it that the unit sounds quite good (as least comparable to a Melos MA-333 or a MFA Magus) and is mostly quiet while in operation and no hissing nor tube rush/noise (although could maybe hear a slight hum/high pitch noise when ear is very close to the unit - note: probably only the case in my system). The hum is likely from small a small amount DC in the power lines as my Isolated Balanced transformers also exhibit a low level hum.)
Aside from some tube rolling, the long term project with this unit is to mod/replace some parts with more boutique ones and if possible,...
a) Install a Tortuga Audio LDR (passive) volume control.
b) Install an Elma input selector switch.
c) Drill some hole holes in the back panel for some additional RCA inputs.
d) Change out the rectifier 6Z4 (and underlying circuit), as suggested by you, with the 6X4
e) Replace the transformer with a 120V versus 110V version?
Thanks for reading.
Sincerely,
Kingsley.
Sorry to hear that you're abandoning your turntable system. Would have reached out and brought your unit but thought that the shipping costs would be very high/exhorbitant.
Well, here's the update. Guess your endorsement carries a lot of weight!
So, went ahead with re-ordering the BRZ Klimo clone during a small promotion/discount they were offering (during the first week of summer). Discount was a few dollars but got dinged on two fronts.
(The cost of doing business)
1. Fedex customs/duties fees of $38 (might have been because I asked the vendor to ensure that it arrived at it's destination and not get sent back because of carrier/courier issues).
(The not so good)
2. Poor packaging... the unit was wrapped in several layers thin sheetlike foam, a couple of layers of bubble wrap (thin type), and mucho packing tape. The result upon arrival? All four back corners of the casing (rear edges of the side panels) went bent and dinged (and not sure if they can be bent back without cracking or using heat). Might need to cut those rounded/curved fins/corners to make it flush/straight like the front end/edge. Good thing it's at the back and not readily noticeable. However, the rounded corners on thick front panel all suffered from damage/dings with the top left corner sustaining the most damage and having a gouge/metal shard. It's as if the thought to throw/drop the poorly package item each time it was handled during shipping was a laughing/careless matter. I could understand one corner (two at the most) but all eight corners? Goes to show that the vendor had not put much thought in the packaging/survival rate or had a grudge because the a dispute (and refund) of non-delivery of the first unit ordered (and maybe lost money from it?)
Hoping the machine shop at my workplace might be able to work out the kinks.
At any rate, the only saving take away from this it that the unit sounds quite good (as least comparable to a Melos MA-333 or a MFA Magus) and is mostly quiet while in operation and no hissing nor tube rush/noise (although could maybe hear a slight hum/high pitch noise when ear is very close to the unit - note: probably only the case in my system). The hum is likely from small a small amount DC in the power lines as my Isolated Balanced transformers also exhibit a low level hum.)
Aside from some tube rolling, the long term project with this unit is to mod/replace some parts with more boutique ones and if possible,...
a) Install a Tortuga Audio LDR (passive) volume control.
b) Install an Elma input selector switch.
c) Drill some hole holes in the back panel for some additional RCA inputs.
d) Change out the rectifier 6Z4 (and underlying circuit), as suggested by you, with the 6X4
e) Replace the transformer with a 120V versus 110V version?
Thanks for reading.
Sincerely,
Kingsley.
Just wondering how you are enjoying the phono preamp after all these months of listening? Would you recommend the kit to other diy’ers?
Hi,
I recently received the Brz finished version of preamp. I plab to progressively upgrade the coupling caps and to upgrade the 6z4 rectifier tube to the russian military gradr 6z4 tube when the chinese tube wears out a bit. Now waiting for tje Amari LP18S turntable to arrive. Mybokd turntable is a Thoren TD125mkii with the sme3009 tone arm, cartridge is ortofon HMC30 moving cpil. I opened up the BRZ preamp and found it to be of pretty high quality. Have replaced the rubber feet with Alum alloy cnc feet with rubber disc.
James Puah
I recently received the Brz finished version of preamp. I plab to progressively upgrade the coupling caps and to upgrade the 6z4 rectifier tube to the russian military gradr 6z4 tube when the chinese tube wears out a bit. Now waiting for tje Amari LP18S turntable to arrive. Mybokd turntable is a Thoren TD125mkii with the sme3009 tone arm, cartridge is ortofon HMC30 moving cpil. I opened up the BRZ preamp and found it to be of pretty high quality. Have replaced the rubber feet with Alum alloy cnc feet with rubber disc.
James Puah
I am glad to report the phono stage sounds great and sonic quality improves over time. Have been listening to both old and new vinyls and am sure this phono puts out good neutral sound. Bass is deep and clean whenbit should, treble is good and does not cause fatique or irritation to ears, mids are present where it belongs. Have not changed tubes or change better coupling caps. Overall very pleased with the phono.
can anybody tell me the size of the PCBs?
D.Klimo beruhmte maschine LAR Gold Plus Rohr MM MC phono vorverstarker Phono Plattenspieler Preamplfieir 1:1 kopie fur hohe ende audio|Amplifier| - AliExpress
D.Klimo beruhmte maschine LAR Gold Plus Rohr MM MC phono vorverstarker Phono Plattenspieler Preamplfieir 1:1 kopie fur hohe ende audio|Amplifier| - AliExpress
Thanks so much for you help!Good Afternoon, Denis:
From the photo that holco uploaded of the innards of his BRZ Klimo clone, there appear to be two sizes of Mundorf M-Caps. One pair are 3.3uf 410VA and the other four are .47uf 410VA. From the pictures of the insides of the seller's ad of these BRZ phono stages, they do show as a pair of 3.3uf 250V and four .47uf 400V. .Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Kingsley.
Hello all,
Can someone with the BRZHifi Klimo clone please measure the noise and/or show the noise spectrum in MC and MM? Maybe just plug into a PC sound card then use Audacity or similar to measure the spectrum, preferably at 192KHz/24bit? I'm interested to see how it stacks up against my current, MM-only Paragon System E preamp (spectrum analysis of line out, phono pre, unterminated inputs, from Audacity attached.)
Many thanks in advance,
Doug
Can someone with the BRZHifi Klimo clone please measure the noise and/or show the noise spectrum in MC and MM? Maybe just plug into a PC sound card then use Audacity or similar to measure the spectrum, preferably at 192KHz/24bit? I'm interested to see how it stacks up against my current, MM-only Paragon System E preamp (spectrum analysis of line out, phono pre, unterminated inputs, from Audacity attached.)
Many thanks in advance,
Doug
Good point. In the case of the Paragon, profiles are similar, overall a little lower except for 60Hz leakage from an imperfectly shielded/grounded tonearm. I'm still interested to see how it compares to the BRZHifi Klimo clone.
I wonder why the BRZHifi coupling cap values differ so markedly from the Klimo original. In both cases, the values are lower than what's spec'd on the (presumably) original schematic shown in earlier posts. (4.7 vs 3.3, 1.0 vs .47) What would be the impact of using smaller values?From the photo that holco uploaded of the innards of his BRZ Klimo clone, there appear to be two sizes of Mundorf M-Caps. One pair are 3.3uf 410VA and the other four are .47uf 410VA. From the pictures of the insides of the seller's ad of these BRZ phono stages, they do show as a pair of 3.3uf 250V and four .47uf 400V. .Hope this helps.
I'm thinking about building the Klimo LAR clone. Looking online, I found numerous AE sellers that offer either a 'gold' (ie tube rectifier) or transistor PSU. The pictures are not great, and they appear to differ from the schematic, which was posted here as well. Also, based on the photos, not everything seems connected. As an example, the capacitors in the filament section are not all connected.
Are there more picures of the bare PCBs? Either the tube rectifier board, solid state rectifier board, or phono stage?
Are there more picures of the bare PCBs? Either the tube rectifier board, solid state rectifier board, or phono stage?
Attachments
So I have a finished Klimo clone that I built and just received a new BRZ Klimo clone. I recently finished a new Lenco 75 PTP build with an SME 312s arm which I installed a Denon 103 on and tried the MC inputs on the Klimo clone for the first time. One of the channels on the one I built is faulty so I ordered the BRZ to use while I fix the kit Klimo. What I have noticed now though with using the MC inputs is a clicking sound. It's not so noticeable at low volume but definitely there at high volume. Removing the inputs from the table do not eliminate the clicking. And it exists with either preamp. Any ideas why the MC circuit would have a clicking noise?
What tubes are used there?
Mine has hiss (diy kit as on 1 page), I guess Tesla e88cc is just too noisy, I'll try some other tubes. But found also info that it is hard to find quiet ecc88.
But clicking could be from a faulty capacitor