Post your Analogue Source pics here

Updated ... modified the plinth size, the motor pod housing and the pulley changed to solid copper ( instead of aluminium )

Arm modified to micrometer VTA adjustment.

You cant see them in the picture but changed the feet from maglev to points resting on sorbothane pads.

Updated again....

How now completed the final part of my TT..have built a Schroeder Reference clone. I built two arm wands at the same time.. 9.5 inch and a 12 inch...this is it fitted with the 12" .
FD6523-B3-18-A2-45-BE-9-CFD-6-A45-C173-BA2-E-1-201-a.jpg


Short YouTube video here....



Arm test . My DIY Schroeder Reference clone - YouTube



...
 
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I think that , without having to resort to very complex machining and super fine tolerances, you can get a lot of performance out of a DIY Schroeder Reference for the work you have to put in in making one.

Don't get me wrong...you have to be on you game to make one but there are less parts to worry about in a Reference than a precision gimbal arm say.

Probable is another reason why a lot of people also make DIY unipivots.
 
Lenco build - fully refurbished with Linn arm and Denon 103MA cart.
Plinth is Ply with cork feet and plenty of other mods



And the other TT



Michell Gyrodec with SME V and Goldring Elite.
The platter is 100% acrylic with 'Pete Pylons' replacing the springs in the suspension turrets and mounted on skateboard wheels - plus the bearing under the spindle replaced with a none metal bearing.

Both TT's sound fantastic :)

(sorry 'bout the quality of the pics but my phone battery died so had to use my tablet :()
 
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Here is my TT. Started life as a Rek-A-Cut H33, a Black Widow tone arm stretched out to 12.5", and a 120 lbs of carved marble.

Also, built this Hagerman octal Coronet on a slab of marble.
 

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Hi,

I am still not able to upload picture of my DIY TT. I am sure I follow correctly the instruction but problem still here... I asked an IT guy to check my MAC note book and seems all is ok. Unfortunately due to the Covid and red area where I am living there are severe travel restriction and better follow for safety reason, so I have problem to further check my NB.

However my TT is made as follow:
Plinth by multi ply wood of two types OKUME and softer one 5 ply 20mm each alternated. Inside I have leads glued. 3 Spykes at the bottom
Plateer and its 11mm oil bath bearing are in supported by a special aluminum plate with mag lev floating system, No metal contact on this, a kind of AVID TT concept but with mag lev. I am pretty satisfied with is and even I knock the plinth while playing music I hear none from the knocking.

Platter is acrylic 50mm thickness and 320mm diameter, I bought from Germany.
Vinyl clamp made of acrylic and stainless weight 500 grams, a kind of recycled material I had and worked by lathe.

Drive unit I have made two, both using the old floppy disk 5.5 inch motor and its controlling cards, for the feeding of the card that control the motor by 12V DC or 5V DC I use a new purchased PC feeding unit without the cooling fan as I need to reduce its dimension in order to fit it inside the motor case.

One driving unit is made by single motor and fixed pulley, the motor case is made of an heavy steel case with some sound proof treatment and 3 rubber feet. Fixed pulley for 33.33 Rpm as I only play these vinyls.
Other driving unit is made following the concept of VPI with 2 motors and fly wheel. Therefore I use 2 floppy disk 5.5 inch motors, a fly wheel weighting 4.5Kg and to drive the platter 3 round belt. Speed is very accurate and stable with the single motor.
With the recent 2 motors plus fly wheel I have some variation between the just start unit and after 30 minutes running, it is due to the friction of the fly wheel and its bushes that I made a bit too tight I think and need some running ing. After this 30 minute warming up the speed is very accurate and ready at 33.33 Rpm.

Tonearm history:
First I used a REGA RB 250 with upgraded counter weight and upgraded in the ground wire, also using a 5 grams spacer to increase the tonearm mass for the Denon DL 103, I still have this tone arm but I boxed it.

After I bought a Jelco 750 L 12 inch using with Denon DL 103.

After I made my own unipivot tonearm using the Jelco geometry, 12 inch, made of Mahogany aged wood, special metal pipe inside the arm wand where the wires pass and high mass to well match the Denon DL 103. The type of material and thickness were chosen following the Japanese school ( Thick ) to reduce unwanted vibrationI still use it at the present and I am pretty satisfied.Therefore soft aluminum and brass. Inner wiring by 3 strand 100% silver silk covered. Cart is Denon DL 103 as I am using these carts since more than 15 years.

I also attempted to make a Schroeder Ref1 clone, but I fail to have the top and bottom magnets attract them in a very parallel and even way. Their attraction without any correction by the stub weight was leaning in one side so I stopped the project for now as not well done as I wanted. Arm Wand for this tonearm was made by Bamboo, with special inner treatment....

Pre Phono: I have 2 ARIA first generation ( without the external with to adjust the setting, so I need to open it to change the resistor for the correct gain ) and use outside connectors for the correct load, from Audio Analogue. It allow me to well interface the DENON DL 103 without any SUT.

Tone arm cable and signal cable by silver wire DIY.
Integrated is a Pathos Logos with a simple and small tweak in the speaker out put.

Speakers: Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor first type.

A simple system but enough for my present requirements.

Hope soon or later able to up load some pictures in this forum

Rgds
Adelmo