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|16th April 2019, 10:48 AM||#13|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Use a stand to grip and hold the heatgun in a fixed convenient position.
At the right temp, the case will split and reveal the silicon die - it's usually tiny around 3x3 mm or less. Under a 10x microscope you should be able to read the manufacturuer's part number on the silicon die:
TI (BB), Analog Devices, Nat Semi all put the part number on the die next/near to one of the pads for the power pins.
e.g. for the AD825 opamp, you'll see '825' on the die. For the TI OPA2134, they just put 'TI' '2134'. Similar NEC UPC324 is 'NEC' 'C324', PHILIPS/NXP is just 5534A for the NE5534AN. Also, you should see the vendor's logo on the die, 'AD' Analog Devices.
Make sure you have a respirator on when heating the plastic encapuslant - the fumes are toxic.
Also wear safety glasses and gloves.
As for the heat gun, I've used a Steinel HG 2320 ESD - that's what we have at work. The Steinel HG 2310 LCD is good too.
Use the low fan setting. Be patient, it takes about 20-40s of direct heat to get the IC's encapuslant soft enough to break-up gently and crumble.
Be cautious at first - practice on another chip if it helps.
Having been through the same hassle with another Clearaudio preamp and told to send it to Germany for repair - The opamp in my case was an LM4562 - the silicon die just had 'NS' and '4562' on it.
I don't know why they're so paranoid about giving the information; Sanding the name off a chip doesn't stop anyone in the end...
I know of companies in Romania and China where you can send the product to and for around USD500-1000 they'll come back with a complete verified schematic and details of all semiconductors, right down to transitor gains, you name it if you ask for it...and you're prepared to pay
Last edited by Celestial; 16th April 2019 at 10:57 AM.
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