Yep, already checked T1. The first thing that was done was replacing the crystal as it wasn't running (this is after the 5v line event). Putting in a new crystal got the first part working, but the logic was fried. So after replacing all the flip flop DIL's (the gates seem to have survived) All that was working and the table was rotating at about the right speed. I set the xtal frequency at that time, and it was only when I was setting up the period that I found it was not over yet (the strobe wasn't working, so it wasn't obvious without the scope that it was not locking). While checking the power supply I found the 140v fuse was missing. Using my power supply, the strobe did work, so i suspect the seller of the unit to its current owner may have removed it to hide the fact it wasn't locking. But that’s just conjecture.
There are substitutes for the transistors I bought these from RS to repair my SP10. I am sure I could find 2SK30A subs but I found a handful in the UK.
The SP10MK2 essentially has no unobtainable components, all the chips on the logic PCB are standard TTL logic IC's and subs are available.
Yep, it would be possible to reverse engineer using a cpld for the logic board or microcontroller, you could probably replace the analogue bits on the control board either keeping the same circuit, or replacing with a controller. The driver board would probably stay as is with newer parts.
But newer parts become obsolete as well, and can be harder to find 30 year old parts. It would be a huge amount of work, and the cost to get someone capable to do the work would probably be at least 20dB more than Technics charge for a new sp10r.
But then it wouldn’t be a sp10, so what’s the point. Better to fix what’s there IMHO.
But newer parts become obsolete as well, and can be harder to find 30 year old parts. It would be a huge amount of work, and the cost to get someone capable to do the work would probably be at least 20dB more than Technics charge for a new sp10r.
But then it wouldn’t be a sp10, so what’s the point. Better to fix what’s there IMHO.
Honestly, I'm not interested in changing the circuit to get (maybe) better performances; I stocked up on original ICs and PCBs to get back on track if my SP 10IIs fail for the rest of my life, for the children or grandchildren if they ever want to.
I have taken over time an SL 1000 MK2 NOS and 5 SP10 mk2 of which three perfectly restored by me over time free, and the remaining two to be restored; I have no interest in making extra changes.
Rather the only change I want to make is the lamp strobe that could fail, the rare used that are on sale have increased prices too much and I don't want to stock up anymore.
It should not be difficult to use different bulb lamps and adapt the circuit for piloting these by putting a pair in parallel, I'm working on my spare time to avoid using LED lamps.
I have taken over time an SL 1000 MK2 NOS and 5 SP10 mk2 of which three perfectly restored by me over time free, and the remaining two to be restored; I have no interest in making extra changes.
Rather the only change I want to make is the lamp strobe that could fail, the rare used that are on sale have increased prices too much and I don't want to stock up anymore.
It should not be difficult to use different bulb lamps and adapt the circuit for piloting these by putting a pair in parallel, I'm working on my spare time to avoid using LED lamps.
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Here is the link.
Have a read before deciding to go LED.
Cleaned up quite nicely, Techincs SP10-MK2. | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Have a read before deciding to go LED.
Cleaned up quite nicely, Techincs SP10-MK2. | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
I replaced the neon in 1 of my SP10s with LED's. instead of soldering the wires to the PCB I cut the traces on the PCB and added wires to the back so the LED plugs in where the neon was, it looks stock. You want to put 4 LED's on a PCB and have them touching each other or you will get dark bars on the strobe, depending on the LED's illumination angle.
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If a simpler, less complex set of controls , can be made with a far lower parts count of easily obtainable components and far lower chance of failure/unreliability were available it will be no surprise that most SP10 users would jump at that option rather than remain constantly aware of the probability that a cogging or other power control failure can happen at anytime. [For my own purpose it would need only two operating speeds; 45 & 33rpm]. But as you can see, my intention is to have an extremely functional TT based on one of the absolutely best DD motors in the field...and which is still available if at some cost.
On the other hand, I perfectly understand the owner of a prime, very lightly used totally original TT who wants to keep it that way rather as the owner of a classic car wants to even retro-restore it to its totally original specification in every smallest detail. But such an owner does need to accept that it will never sound as good as an updated competently mounted unit restored for improving sound quality without spending more time and money than the thing is really worth. It is simply not rare enough to be worth the real cost of properly restoring one...unless that alone swims your boat!
Take it as is if working and enjoy it for playing records. Put a good Ikeda 12" arm plus one of the many 70-80s style MCs in the front but ensure that you have a top system behind if you want to hear it at its easily attainable best.
BBC Rp2/9 Mkii P
Briljant info thanks !
Was wondering if you got the debounce right in the end ?
Greetz!
Briljant info thanks !
Was wondering if you got the debounce right in the end ?
Greetz!
It’s the time of year for holiday weight gain. My plinth is getting a feast of lead with epoxy gravy. This is a plinth from ebay.
I found some screws embedded in the layers, and those screws kill the bits. So I need to get some more. I decided to put in some lead into the holes I drilled, and the 3 tubes of 5 minute epoxy was the perfect amount.
Now I need forstner bits and more epoxy. Off to Lowe’s.
I found some screws embedded in the layers, and those screws kill the bits. So I need to get some more. I decided to put in some lead into the holes I drilled, and the 3 tubes of 5 minute epoxy was the perfect amount.
Now I need forstner bits and more epoxy. Off to Lowe’s.
Attachments
One more SP-10 project.
Finally managed to find one in a mint condition.
Added a heavy concrete base and now it sings. I think that it smoked my heavily modified VPI Aries easily.
In fact I could not stop listening to music last night.
A big thanks to this thread, as it has been really helpful.
Finally managed to find one in a mint condition.
Added a heavy concrete base and now it sings. I think that it smoked my heavily modified VPI Aries easily.
In fact I could not stop listening to music last night.
A big thanks to this thread, as it has been really helpful.
![IMG_20200117_175255[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/748/748983-aed92e9457f5523fca6ba1d8816509f1.jpg)