I am of the opinion that it is absurd to use capacitors for audio use in a turntable because there is no sound coming out of them unlike a preamp or a phono preamp or power amplifier; rather I prefer to use capacitors like Panasonic FC or better still FM which are suitable for higher temperatures ensuring longer life.
If you want to use capacitors for audio use in a turntable it is interesting to use them in the internal phono stage of the Technics SL 10 turntable for example, but not for the whole turntable.
The best glue up for panzerholz stacks is marine epoxy, this was recommended to me by the NA distributor and it worked great. Just be on your toes because it cures very fast. I suggest pilot holes somewhere to align the layers whilst you clamp because the plys w/ epoxy slip terribly.
For veneer on panzerholz you can use epoxy and it should work, but what worked well, as was suggested to me by Russ at Layers of Beauty, is Titebond 50. Its a pain to find, used for guitars mostly, but it dries very brittle which is what's needed. Titebond III works too if you can't find 50, I also tested it with curly maple, not a lot of creep.
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as above,i used west epoxy system. very easy to use,i also used it to veneer to panzerholz as well with perfect results.
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Not in the near future. I have not found a local panzerholz/permali source that is affordable and also I am not a fan of laminated plinth structures. The unpredictable effects of the chosen adhesive/layer thickness etc is a deal breaker for me. I am not prepared for endless experiments to tune the laminate parameters for optimum results.
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I have refurbished an SH-10E Power Unit. There is a 140V DC output. I don't know the purpose of it since I have not started with the TT yet. But, I do notice that the output is 152 volt instead of 140. This is most likely because we have 230V in EU nowadays and 220 when the power unit was new. The 140V rail is unregulated so the voltage will increase if line voltage is increased. The 5V rail and the 32,5V rail are as they should because these are regulated.
Has anyone more than I noted this increased voltage? What will it do to the TT?
Has anyone bothered to lower the voltage? The simplest way would be with a dropping resistor. About 40 ohms and an absolute max of 4 watts would take care of it.
Has anyone more than I noted this increased voltage? What will it do to the TT?
Has anyone bothered to lower the voltage? The simplest way would be with a dropping resistor. About 40 ohms and an absolute max of 4 watts would take care of it.
Wow! I didn't realize there were so much electronics inside the SP10! I have mostly worked on the outside; polish-work and I renovated the SME tonearm.
OK, are there any must-dos on the electronics? I have read a few posts about replacing capacitors. But I'm skeptical to that. My primary interest area is ham radio where replacing caps could be a good idea if they are leaking, or if they are part of a high voltage supply. But in low voltage electronics? I'm not so sure it is necessary if they pass visual inspection...
OK, are there any must-dos on the electronics? I have read a few posts about replacing capacitors. But I'm skeptical to that. My primary interest area is ham radio where replacing caps could be a good idea if they are leaking, or if they are part of a high voltage supply. But in low voltage electronics? I'm not so sure it is necessary if they pass visual inspection...
I'll refer you to this post: I'll just refer you to here: The Incredible Technics SP-10 Thread.
Visual inspection can weed out the obviously bad, but just because a cap looks fine doesn't mean it's good.
This is such a great thread! Thank you!
Still have 100+ pages to skim through
Great info! I have friends with scope
Still have 100+ pages to skim through
Great info! I have friends with scope