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DIY linear tonearm
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Old Yesterday, 06:25 AM   #3601
warrjon is offline warrjon  Australia
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Terang Vic
Hi Carlo,


I tried multiple ways of dressing the cable with no success. The wires are dressed to the left so if they were causing this issue the they would be dragging the carriage to the left so CL would be offset to the right.



I'm going to add a wire ring from the back of the top cross bar to hold the wires.



I'll carefully go through each system, carriage, rail bearings and test each one. I must confess I am surprised I have this problem. I have a tonearm alignment rig that I use to set the arm up it uses an M4 bolt ground to a point with a small radius. With this on a blank record the carriage moves with the slightest touch and stops.
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SP10, ...... DIY Linear tonearm, ......Stanton 881s with D3000 stylus, .....BHL phono,.........Pass B1,
MODULUS 86 power amps x4,.............Active line level OX,......... bi-amped OB speakers with Mark Audio Alpair 12P
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Old Yesterday, 07:32 AM   #3602
nocdplz is offline nocdplz
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The cables often exert a resistance higher than that of the bearings (the good ones of course): therefore it is necessary to reduce their diameter beyond the limits of decency, and limit twisting as possible. On Lil Casey i came up to a double full loop around the rail which works really well. (by measures - LC has never had skipping, in normal conditions). The cable introduces variable springy stresses (if you balance it in the center it first pushes, and then pulls) - As I said several times it's not easy understandable how certain linear arms, or rotating heads, with plastic coated (!) wires can sound so wonderfully as claimed. Not to mention some pipes of the air bearings.

Imho the brush averages the stresses coming from many dozen of grooves (every bristle follows them as the cantilever does) and from the defects of the disc, clearly damping them. To do this it needs a significant amount of additional VTF. This represents a considerable help, sometimes decisive, to overcome the friction of the carriage of a linear one, which now is moved by the brush much more than by the cantilever, with a force many times higher. Unfortunately that the cantilever moves with respect to an elastic, "jelly" support instead than to the "rigid" mass of the arm, does not seem a convincing solution, almost never followed by anyone.

From the described behavior (excellent normally, but easily stumbling ) it seems like a stiction problem: in motion the friction is very low, but the start is problematic; which, with the loads generated by those micro tips is not surprising. Using very different materials, not self engaging, for the axle and the bush is probably indispensable.

carlo

Last edited by nocdplz; Yesterday at 07:38 AM.
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Old Yesterday, 10:10 AM   #3603
warrjon is offline warrjon  Australia
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Terang Vic
Hi Carlo,


I am using the same wire as my current LT. It is cotton wrapped litz copper and quite floppy. It does need support to stop it hanging maybe it is pulling the back of the carriage down reducing VTF. I am going to add a hook to hold the wiring similar to what my current LT has.



Stanton/Pickering are famous for the brush, as you say it provides damping of both lateral and vertical cartridge movement. The Stanton requires 1gram additional for the brush and I mostly track with the brush at 1.75 to 2.00 grams.
__________________
SP10, ...... DIY Linear tonearm, ......Stanton 881s with D3000 stylus, .....BHL phono,.........Pass B1,
MODULUS 86 power amps x4,.............Active line level OX,......... bi-amped OB speakers with Mark Audio Alpair 12P
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