rega arm rewire

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update
got the arm wired and it was a fun job . here is some pics of the process and also a ortofon 2m red that i scored on ebay for $60.
my old well used cartridges
a ortofon mc 10 super lo output mc
a pickering xsv300 mm cartrige
andante h sumiko mm cartridge
i bought the ortofon 2m red after reading many great reviews of this cartridge .
the ortofon mc10 super is a very nice catridge but i'm using a counterpoint sa2000 preamp. it has no built in phono processing . i would like to find some step up transformers so i can use it.

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How about a picture of the whole arm?

I built up an LP12 for a guy recently with an RB300 on it. The cartridge was a Denon DL-110 and I'll tell you what, that cart is a great match on the RB300. Works really well. The DL-103 is maybe a better cart and it can work well on a Rega but it takes work. The DL-110 hits the spot straight out of the box.
 
How about a picture of the whole arm?

I built up an LP12 for a guy recently with an RB300 on it. The cartridge was a Denon DL-110 and I'll tell you what, that cart is a great match on the RB300. Works really well. The DL-103 is maybe a better cart and it can work well on a Rega but it takes work. The DL-110 hits the spot straight out of the box.
thanks
yes for sure more pics to come. tonite im working arm the arm height. i have 4 of the rega spacers and i really want to nail this right on .
i'm going to try try the 2m red first. as it is a mm and my phono preamp prefers that.
the andante h and the pickering are 80's and very well used . the mc10 super not so much. it was only used on and off when i had a mc preamp .
 
i would love to have a denon dl-110 but just can't sing it right now. i'm $200 into this now and still need to get a output cable . so total will be like $400 to $500.
the ortofon 2m was just a low cost mm new one to try all new arm upgrades. it was reviewed many times to be the best under a selling price of $125. i got it for $60 on ebay so see what i mean, just for low cost try.
tonite i settled on the 4 spacers for arm height.

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Looks good. Sure you've got enough washers under there though? ;0) Looks too high to me. I have an RB300 on an LP12 and I don't have any.

I'm sure the 2M RED will be a perfectly good cartridge. You're quite right to put the money into the arm first, it makes more of a difference.

Remember, don't do up the arm pillar lock-nut too tight. Just a firm nip will do. If it's too tight it hurts the sound.
 
Looks good. Sure you've got enough washers under there though? ;0) Looks too high to me. I have an RB300 on an LP12 and I don't have any.

I'm sure the 2M RED will be a perfectly good cartridge. You're quite right to put the money into the arm first, it makes more of a difference.

Remember, don't do up the arm pillar lock-nut too tight. Just a firm nip will do. If it's too tight it hurts the sound.
i know it looks that way but the platter on the heybrook is so thick. vta is correct with the arm sitting level to the platter when the cartridge is mounted and on a record right?
i've wanted to rewire this arm for years and i'm very excited to have it done and give it the first listen.
 
Make sure you check the azimuth on the rega after the rewire. I rewired my rb600 and was getting groove distortion and even crosstalk. It drove me insane until I finally came across a post. Mine was so off until I fixed it. I don't remember anyone mentioning it either.
 
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Make sure you check the azimuth on the rega after the rewire.

How can rewiring a Rega arm alter that? And if it is off how can it be fixed?

I totally beleive that some Rega arms will leave the factory without the headshell face being flat/correct, especially on the cheaper arms, but other than machining the headshell I don't know how you could fix that.

To be honest, it's not something I worry about. I reckon the stylus is probably far more out than the headshell is likely to be. My cartridge is actually mounted with two little bits of copper wire between it and the shell, it was a tip someone gave me for my particular cart and it works. The side benefit is that by moving the wires and altering the bolt tension you can alter the VTA and azimuth. It's trial and error but the sonic difference can be quite big.
 
How can rewiring a Rega arm alter that? And if it is off how can it be fixed?

I totally beleive that some Rega arms will leave the factory without the headshell face being flat/correct, especially on the cheaper arms, but other than machining the headshell I don't know how you could fix that.

To be honest, it's not something I worry about. I reckon the stylus is probably far more out than the headshell is likely to be. My cartridge is actually mounted with two little bits of copper wire between it and the shell, it was a tip someone gave me for my particular cart and it works. The side benefit is that by moving the wires and altering the bolt tension you can alter the VTA and azimuth. It's trial and error but the sonic difference can be quite big.

These pics are not mine but I had the same problem after my rewire. I almost bought a new tonearm because the distortion and crosstalk drove me up the wall. Thank god for this person. Obviously don't use a toothpick but a REPLACEMENT LEAD FOR MECHANICAL CARPENTER PENCIL or anything flat to measure both sides. It has to do with the way you tighten everthing back up.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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I think the guy who posted these pics paid around $300 for this rb600 with a rewire!! I bet you anything the original owner had the same problem I did and couldn't figure it out and sold it..
 
i'll have a guess that the arm was taken apart for the re-wire so end cap where bearing/vtf carrier bolts to the main yoke were not marked before taking apart and were put back in a different position from factory. there is play in the bolts/holes. the noise is due to the bearings not running on their races properly due to the alignment problem.

anyone can take an arm apart for a re-wire but very few can put them back together properly due to not understanding how bearings work and any alignment problems with assembling the arm is going to cause major problems. also the bearing are very fragile and are easily damaged.

it's physically impossible for wires to cause an alignment problem (if not dressed properly it will show up as a bias problem)) but putting an arm back together wrong will.

another problem is arm board sag.
 
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Those pictures mean nothing to me. A toothpick, really??

I wouldn't know where to start regarding the flaws in the methodology here. You're measuring the top of the headshell, not the lower face which is machined. Assuming the toothpick is dead straight, and the record dead level. Assuming the front of the armboard is parallel with the back, and the platter! In short, it's sloppy nonsense that proves nothing at all.

And you're also assuming that the stylus itself is exactly at right-angles to the cartridge...
 
Those pictures mean nothing to me. A toothpick, really??

I wouldn't know where to start regarding the flaws in the methodology here. You're measuring the top of the headshell, not the lower face which is machined. Assuming the toothpick is dead straight, and the record dead level. Assuming the front of the armboard is parallel with the back, and the platter! In short, it's sloppy nonsense that proves nothing at all.

And you're also assuming that the stylus itself is exactly at right-angles to the cartridge...


I'm just telling you my experience after my rewire and the horrible experience I had with groove distortion and crosstalk. As soon as I leveled the azimuth, everything was back to normal. If it means nothing to you than ignore it . I found the original posts here:

REGA RB 600...Need HELP!!! - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
 
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guys my platter measured with a metric caliper is 38mm . most cartridges are 22mm tall.
my tonearm is balanced level at 60mm. install a 22mm cartridge and what do you have ? 38mm
so that puts the needle in the groove with the arm in relation to my platter bang on level.
i'll try to get a good close up shot of this.
 
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