Thanks, esls, but I've cleaned single records many, many times!
I just don't see or hear any differences compared to cleaning 3 at a time, spaced by 1". (And 2" spacing would only allow 2 records in the tank, or else I'd be less than 2" from the side walls.) Cleaning more than 3 at a time, yes, results do get worse.
For me, I see/hear no benefit to space 2" apart in a 60 kHz or higher frequency machine.
Best,
B B
I just don't see or hear any differences compared to cleaning 3 at a time, spaced by 1". (And 2" spacing would only allow 2 records in the tank, or else I'd be less than 2" from the side walls.) Cleaning more than 3 at a time, yes, results do get worse.
For me, I see/hear no benefit to space 2" apart in a 60 kHz or higher frequency machine.
Best,
B B
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BC, that's another interesting possibility. Someone should do that.
Ben, at a spacing of less than one wavelength, there is no surface disturbance in the interstices. More than one wavelength, clear surface disturbance, which means we have a clear physical effect at the wavelength boundary.
Ben, at a spacing of less than one wavelength, there is no surface disturbance in the interstices. More than one wavelength, clear surface disturbance, which means we have a clear physical effect at the wavelength boundary.
Not sold anymore. Confusion between parties.
Sonix 4 - $499 including motor. Shpg add'l.
Brand new, no box. All parts and manuals included.
Just an update on the Herbach & Rademan 5 RPH motor.. I was told that I was shipped the last one and that the H1 series of motors has been discontinued. I guess future builders will have to source different motors if they wanted to go that route.
I did find the following which might help some folks:
SYNCHRON - 32953R-24 - Motor, AC. Synchronous 120VAC 1/10RPH.
I did find the following which might help some folks:
SYNCHRON - 32953R-24 - Motor, AC. Synchronous 120VAC 1/10RPH.
Bummer on the H&R motors. Thanks for the update jmc.
But the link you provided is for a 1/10 rev per HOUR motor, not 1/10 rev per minute. That motor takes 10 hours to do a complete revolution! That might be a little too long to leave your LP in the ultrasonic bath. ;-)
Cheers,
B B
A quick question for you folks that have been using their cleaners for a while. How well do they remove oils? I've a few records that seems to have some kind of oily residue left from either sleeves or the manufacturing process. Will water, isopropyl, and photoflo remove this type of crud? Or will they need some other type of cleaning first?
JM, oils are usually best removed with other oils, or detergents. Further, alcohols or other solvents in significant concentration can form explosive aerosols around a US machine, so caution is indicated.
I found a further advance by heroically rinsing after immersion in the detergent solution - four rinses, one of them with purified running water. After the fourth rinse, water streams from the record like water from a freshly waxed fender.
I do not use photo-flo, but I do use purified water. I want no residue of any kind on my records.
I found a further advance by heroically rinsing after immersion in the detergent solution - four rinses, one of them with purified running water. After the fourth rinse, water streams from the record like water from a freshly waxed fender.
I do not use photo-flo, but I do use purified water. I want no residue of any kind on my records.
Interesting.. I was hoping to get away from the multistep cleaning I use on my DIY Loricraft clone but for a few stubborn records, I guess whatever it takes..
Tell me more about your detergent bath/immersion. I'm assuming this is separate from your US cleaner?
FWIW, I was only going to use the the small amount of isopropyl mentioned numerous times in this thread
Tell me more about your detergent bath/immersion. I'm assuming this is separate from your US cleaner?
FWIW, I was only going to use the the small amount of isopropyl mentioned numerous times in this thread
FWIW I've only cleaned a couple of hundred records using a 60 KHZ system and about 20 with my 80 KHZ system. I go to thrift stores, garage/estate sales and used record stores. Needless to say some of the vinyl I get is pretty gnarly dirty. Where the dirt is chunked on your going to have to get at it by hand. The 60 or 80 does not handle the caked on goo. So a little spot cleaning may be necessary (just like your laundry). I find the 60 is a little more aggressive for dirtier records whereas the 80 really give a nice detail cleaning. Heat also makes a big difference. Running at room temp did an ok job but at 105 to 115 F made a big difference. My cleaning solution so far has been 2-3 ounces of 99% IPA per gallon of Distilled water with several drops of Triton x 114. I have yet to try Britemax Grime-out but will use on the next nasty batch of records I clean as a spot cleaner. For spot cleaning I use 99% IPA undiluted and/or a little dish soap with a que-tip.
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JM, the detergent immersion I referred to is just the US cleaner. I use Versa-Clean from Fisher Scientific, which is especially recommended for plastics, in distilled water. Concentration is at the minimum recommended for clean records, maximum for grunge. Then four rinses, five for grunge.
ZG, I agree, a coarser cleaner is sometimes called for. My Elmasonic has a 37 KHz setting, which cleans caked grunge in about 30 minutes.
ZG, I agree, a coarser cleaner is sometimes called for. My Elmasonic has a 37 KHz setting, which cleans caked grunge in about 30 minutes.
Right JM.
I clean with US in detergent for 15 minutes, then rinse in running filtered water, rinse twice in baths of filtered water, and rinse in a bath of distilled water.
I came to heroic rinsing when I noticed that the first batch of records shed water differently. Then I noticed how much retipping my cartridge would cost, and am now in the process of re-rinsing everything.
As for spot cleaning, I have used contact lens cleaner successfully. It is designed to not mar an optical plastic surface, and it should be good enough for vinyl, if applied and worked lightly.
I clean with US in detergent for 15 minutes, then rinse in running filtered water, rinse twice in baths of filtered water, and rinse in a bath of distilled water.
I came to heroic rinsing when I noticed that the first batch of records shed water differently. Then I noticed how much retipping my cartridge would cost, and am now in the process of re-rinsing everything.
As for spot cleaning, I have used contact lens cleaner successfully. It is designed to not mar an optical plastic surface, and it should be good enough for vinyl, if applied and worked lightly.
BB, I got another question for you.. I purchased the 9/32 extension rods from that diving supply house you listed in your BOM. What are you using as the end stopper? I know you're using cork to hold the records in place but I'm curious what your using on the end closest to the magnet as a stopper and how you're connecting it to the spindle shaft.
Thanks
-jay
Thanks
-jay
I've more recently been trying a detergent additive, specifically Simple Green Crystal (ie: the version without coloring or scent additives). Not sure how much it helps, and it does require an ultra-pure water rinse afterward, even with a 1/150 dilution (about 0.8oz per gallon). I've taken also to using AIVS No 15 as a pre-wash as well, since it seems that U/S alone doesn't seem to be getting out the kind of greasy junk that enzymatic formulas do.
I was also recommended to try the Sporicidin Enzymatic fluid in the tank as well, though I got the wrong item, and thus haven't tried it yet. The Sporicidin Enzymatic fluid does explicitly state being both safe for vinyl and for use in ultrasonic tanks, but directions also state that it should be used alone in a fluid dilution. Maybe someone with some major cash can get two tanks, and go from Sporicidin Enzymatic to the Iso dilution. *shrug*
I might go back to just the Iso dilution as a final step, while still using AIVS No 15 as a prewash. I really dislike having to do a rinse step after the U/S bath... :/
I was also recommended to try the Sporicidin Enzymatic fluid in the tank as well, though I got the wrong item, and thus haven't tried it yet. The Sporicidin Enzymatic fluid does explicitly state being both safe for vinyl and for use in ultrasonic tanks, but directions also state that it should be used alone in a fluid dilution. Maybe someone with some major cash can get two tanks, and go from Sporicidin Enzymatic to the Iso dilution. *shrug*
I might go back to just the Iso dilution as a final step, while still using AIVS No 15 as a prewash. I really dislike having to do a rinse step after the U/S bath... :/
Hi Jay, I'm using the same part I used on earlier versions --- a simple nylon spacer with ¼" ID that I bore out for a press fit onto the 9/32 spindle. You could probably also find a 9/32" ID set screw collar to use, but that would be a more expensive part to buy.
Cheers,
B B
Hi Jay, the part you're asking about is a round electrical junction box cover (4" diameter), available at any Home Depot, Lowe's etc. They come with the neoprene gasket and they actually function as a good label protector too. However, that cover doesn't, by itself function as a stop. It's a thin plate, so has no way to grip the spindle and act as a stop by itself. That's the function of the ~½" long nylon spacer, or a shaft collar with a set screw.
Hope that clarifies,
B B
Hope that clarifies,
B B