My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner

Destroyer,
No need to spend $3k, but $1k will get you a very high quality machine. I would recommend a longstanding product line from established corporations that offer real warranties and support, along with high reliability.

- Elma has a couple of different benchtop lines with 1.5 gallon machines that are suitable. Can also go larger if you want more capacity. e.g.Elma P60H

- Crest also has benchtop lines e.g Crest P500

Great machines sometimes come up for sale on used medical and dental lab equipment sites online as well.
Cheers,
B B

Which ones?

I'm not spending $3k, not for something that isn't wildly better than other cleaning methods thus far. Don't get me wrong, I love the results when it goes well, but it's been such a headache with countless amounts of water flushing etc.
 
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I'd been mulling over the purchase of a UC for some months, and finally went for a designed from the ground up, all-in-one solution rather than buy a commercial bath and other separate components. The cost gap between the former and the latter wasn't that great by the time I'd got the drying setup, the water filter etc. etc.

The cost wasn't far short of $3k so not something I took lightly. A significant factor in choosing to go one source rather than a more DIY approach was concern over transducer/electrical failure in the bath and what happens then...

Something that became a real concern after approximately 600 cleaning cycles when the machine started making a low level high pitched modulated whistle noise.

After a short period of thinking time, I recorded it and sent a query to the manufacturers. They replied that, while they didn't think it was a safety issue, they didn't like it and would replace the machine though I could continue to use it. My replacement arrives from Estonia this coming Friday. No charge to me.

The sound got worse as I used it, to the point where I stopped, partly because I was sure by then that cleaning had suffered and partly because it seemed like torture for me and for the machine.

While packing it up I could hear debris sliding on the bottom and managed to coax some of it out, sent photos to the manufacturers who said it was part of one of the transducers that had fragmented, and that there were glad they'd got the replacement on the way. I guess death by vibration is an occupational hazard for something that lives by it.

I know this is how after sales service is supposed to happen, but it's still nice when it really does work this way...

Oh, the machine's great, the benefits in SQ are obvious.
 
I'm using a machine like these (exactly like the second one on the page you linked) and I can report it's alright, it does it's job. Time by time I must re-solder the wires to the transducer terminals, as the solder just breaks down by the vibration present there... and I could not find any permanent solution to this issue. When I hear intermittent noises, I know, I must drain, set it upside down, pop it open and solder... :)


Produced by VEVOR, but I have seen it under other names. Most like Chinese origin.

Vevor ultrasonic cleaner review - ultrasoundmaster

The internal size seems just OK (300 mm length, 150 mm width and depth).
 
Hi njjano,
A soldered connection is really not appropriate for a high vibration component like an ultrasonic transducer. Solder is too weak given the movement and vibration (hence your problem).
The electrical connection should be mechanical, and quality machines will use mechanical connections for this purpose. Don't the tabs on your transducers have holes in them, whereby you could substitute a mechanical connection of some sort?
Cheers,
B B

Time by time I must re-solder the wires to the transducer terminals, as the solder just breaks down by the vibration present there... and I could not find any permanent solution to this issue. When I hear intermittent noises, I know, I must drain, set it upside down, pop it open and solder... :)
 
Dear bbftx,

yes indeed there are holes on those tabs. My concern is that if I put something mechanical there (e.g. Screws and some press-fit terminals) I will increase the weight on the tab. So instead of degrading the solder, very likely the tab itself would brake off, and so would EOL the whole transducer (and at the end the whole bath...)
An idea that just came into my mind would be using rivets as they are lighter then screw+nut combos. I have no clue how a rivet would hold up there... to be tested, maybe on one transducer...
 
I recommend adding silicone to the soldered terminals to reduce vibration of the wires and solder.
Mechanical connectors can arch and corrode due to the high voltage pulses to the transducers, plus, as stated, it adds weight to the tabs which can break off due to the vibrations.
Apply the silicone liberally to the tab, the transducer body and to the wire itself to prevent the wire from breaking off, also.
I'll attach a photo of the procedure I use.


-Louis Transducer Wires01.JPG
 
Hey Louis,

thanks for your answer and for confirm of my fears about tab break-off. I think next time I'll try to suffocate the transducers in silicone as you did on your picture :D That should dampen completely those vibrations and thus eliminating the problem :wiz:
Is it a kind of acid-free silicone? As I know there are some type of silicone out there which are not good on electrical circuits as they are releasing some kind of acid by time (or vinegar?? I don't remember really)
 
Hello everyone! Thanks for so much and such good information. I still haven't finished reading the forum, I'm going to page 140.
I got a 6.5 liter 40 Hz machine. I did the test with aluminum foil and it seems to work well: there is a fairly even grain all over the submerged surface. My doubt, and question, arises because I see more activity in a sector of the tank. As if the waves were generated only at one point. The tank has 3 transducers. Is this normal or is it a malfunction? I try to attach a photo and a short video.

Thank you and sorry for the bad writing: I am an Argentine living in Switzerland with a basic level of English, already buried by learning the German language

View attachment 40 Hz.mp4
 
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Hi all,

Bought a quality 6,5 UC unit from Mountain Wolf. Planning to fabricate a rotating mechanism just like the degritter and others. No spindle but 2 (or 3!) little v-shaped wheels per side on an axle. 1 of the axles is propelled by a 12v motor at 0,6 rpm. Wheels and other stuff is very easy to buy from 3d printer parts. Will be prototyping the next few weeks with 1 record per time, exactly in the middle. If all goes well I will look into expanding it so I can wash 2 or maybe 3 records at the same time. Just like the LP3;

ultrasonic cleaning device for vinyl records - LP3!

My question is, has anybody on this forum tried this approach?
 
Hi Baserolokus
I'm not aware of anyone at DIYAudio that has built an edge-drive system , but it should be a workable. Good luck. Can't wait to see what you do.
B B

Hi all,

Bought a quality 6,5 UC unit from Mountain Wolf. Planning to fabricate a rotating mechanism just like the degritter and others. No spindle but 2 (or 3!) little v-shaped wheels per side on an axle. 1 of the axles is propelled by a 12v motor at 0,6 rpm. Wheels and other stuff is very easy to buy from 3d printer parts. Will be prototyping the next few weeks with 1 record per time, exactly in the middle. If all goes well I will look into expanding it so I can wash 2 or maybe 3 records at the same time. Just like the LP3;

ultrasonic cleaning device for vinyl records - LP3!

My question is, has anybody on this forum tried this approach?
 
Thanks, received my v-shaped wheels and 5mm axles and have to order 1 extra set as the 2 axles with wheels are not able to keep the record straight. Assumed the V wheels would be tighter and grip the record. Need an extra axle to support the record! And have to think about creating enough grip on the propelled V wheel as they are too smooth and hard.

Also building the pump system with a 10" 0,5 micron filter. Posting pictures as soon as I'm starting to build.

V-wheels;

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