Looks lovely. I hope the oil dries out fully!Does it sound different from the original? If Roksan took account of the sound of MDF when designing the deck, it could feasibly sound worse! I really hope not, as it looks fantastic.
The Liberon dries in about 5 hours with a hard finish. After a couple of days there are no worries about the finish.
The bubinga is a very dense hardwood and not prone to resonance like the soft MDF. The music is tighter and has more detail now. I am pretty sure MDF was chosen to meet their entry level price point and not for it's acoustic properties.
stunning...
...it is a thing of beauty. Did you already own the Radius and decide to make a new plinth, or was this a scratch built?
Just an intuitive guess, but if anything it should sound more alive than the original. I defer to Wardsweb for sound comparisons
I have also seen the Radius in acrylic, which looks good, but is an extra cost option IIRC. I suspect that good old Canadian hard maple would be excellent as well, or perhaps reclaimed hardwoods from out Crown land. Good quality mahogany should be another option. It seem to me that tone woods always seem to make great enclosures and plinths (like the bubinga, as guitars have been made with bubinga soundboards).
Wardsweb: Did you buy the table second hand? Seems like a new arm and a new plinth on a new table is a little excessive.How do you like the platter and bearing?
...it is a thing of beauty. Did you already own the Radius and decide to make a new plinth, or was this a scratch built?
Looks lovely. I hope the oil dries out fully!
Just an intuitive guess, but if anything it should sound more alive than the original. I defer to Wardsweb for sound comparisons
I have also seen the Radius in acrylic, which looks good, but is an extra cost option IIRC. I suspect that good old Canadian hard maple would be excellent as well, or perhaps reclaimed hardwoods from out Crown land. Good quality mahogany should be another option. It seem to me that tone woods always seem to make great enclosures and plinths (like the bubinga, as guitars have been made with bubinga soundboards).
Wardsweb: Did you buy the table second hand? Seems like a new arm and a new plinth on a new table is a little excessive.How do you like the platter and bearing?
I refurbished and built a new base for a buddy's Rek-O-Kut Rondine in exchange for the original Roksan Radius 5. I used the original pieces as templates for the bubinga ones. I can always put the parts back on the original if I wanted to sell as stock or offer the bubinga as an upgrade. Well, that is if and when I get tired of it.
Well the Rondine looks good too!
Tiger Maple? Regardless another object of art.If the bearing in the Radius is anything like that in the Xerxes, you'll have ahard time bettering it. Now all you need to do is convert the Radius to an idler drive. Then you would have something.
I'm frustrated at the relatively high costs of the Lenco , Rek-o-cut and other good quality idlers. So much so that I have been hacking changers apart to get the parts. I'm also looking at starting small batch production of a famous but over priced (not for the performance, which is still a bargain), but due to spares being so hard to come by.
When I grow up I only wish that I had your capabilities.
Tiger Maple? Regardless another object of art.If the bearing in the Radius is anything like that in the Xerxes, you'll have ahard time bettering it. Now all you need to do is convert the Radius to an idler drive. Then you would have something.
I'm frustrated at the relatively high costs of the Lenco , Rek-o-cut and other good quality idlers. So much so that I have been hacking changers apart to get the parts. I'm also looking at starting small batch production of a famous but over priced (not for the performance, which is still a bargain), but due to spares being so hard to come by.
When I grow up I only wish that I had your capabilities.
Be sure to post on any idler work you may decide to do. I'm looking for a local place to CNC machine a new idler for the Rondine. I was thinking of delrin or some other material to use in place of the original soft brass bearing. Maybe even press fitting a needle bearing. I think I can come up with a better than original idler to help with reducing or eliminating rumble induced from the idler.
I use Liberon wax sticks to repair damage to cabinet work (ex-kitchen fitter), but haven't used their oil.
Yeah, MDF for cheapness, but if you have listened to, and like, the new version then no worries. I once built identical transmission line speakers from MDF and 700density chipboard; the chipboard sounded better!
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