Any Versa Dynamics TT owners out there??
Two main varieties the original 2.0 and the later 1.2.
Since I just acquired a 1.2 in need of restoration, it seems like a good idea to start a thread on the topic... mods too...
I know there is some discussion on VinylEngine... but that's an old thread there, and there are more total people on here...
_-_-bear
PS. I am interested in acquiring a model 2.0, non-working preferred.
Two main varieties the original 2.0 and the later 1.2.
Since I just acquired a 1.2 in need of restoration, it seems like a good idea to start a thread on the topic... mods too...
I know there is some discussion on VinylEngine... but that's an old thread there, and there are more total people on here...
_-_-bear
PS. I am interested in acquiring a model 2.0, non-working preferred.
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No, the Versa is a belt drive with a uproc controlled stepper motor.
The stepper is very likely to be replaced, although we shall have to see about that in a bit...
_-_-
The 2.0 came first (oddly enough) and has a full air bearing under the platter with vacuum hold down.
The 1.0, 1.2 has vacuum hold down, but no airbearing.
The stepper is very likely to be replaced, although we shall have to see about that in a bit...
_-_-
The 2.0 came first (oddly enough) and has a full air bearing under the platter with vacuum hold down.
The 1.0, 1.2 has vacuum hold down, but no airbearing.
I always wanted one of these. I'm surprized they used a stepper? Are you sure it came from the factory that way or someone mikeymoused one in?
Got great reviews from memory. When you take it apart I would be interested in the air bearing outlet and how its made. Whether they used a V or U groove spirally around the movable headshell or ?
This appears the best way to build a tonearm and end the outside resonance problems associated with all other designs. The Air tangent would be second on my list if vacuum hold down wasn't an option
I still consider getting a centerless grinder and giving it a go or you could save me the pain and give up and sell me yours!
Regards
David
Got great reviews from memory. When you take it apart I would be interested in the air bearing outlet and how its made. Whether they used a V or U groove spirally around the movable headshell or ?
This appears the best way to build a tonearm and end the outside resonance problems associated with all other designs. The Air tangent would be second on my list if vacuum hold down wasn't an option
I still consider getting a centerless grinder and giving it a go or you could save me the pain and give up and sell me yours!
Regards
David
Yes the factory design is a microprocessor controlled stepper motor... lots o torque.
The 1.2 does NOT have an air bearing for the platter, it does have vacuum hold down.
Not sure what the question about the headshell refers to or is about? Could you re-state it perhaps? Are you talking about how the air is introduced to the moving tonearm assembly?/
_-_-bear
The 1.2 does NOT have an air bearing for the platter, it does have vacuum hold down.
Not sure what the question about the headshell refers to or is about? Could you re-state it perhaps? Are you talking about how the air is introduced to the moving tonearm assembly?/
_-_-bear
Hi Bear
I had you contacted some time ago about the Versa.
Since then, I found one in France (the only! ) in working condition but I had a lot of work on it for reliable operation. I contacted the designer (John Bicht) but it is not very talkative about his turntables and you must pay for information . So I managed alone and with the help of a very nice gentleman met on vinyl engine (Tube4life) which has a 2.0 and 1.2 that knows them well. Thanks to him I got it working without problems.
If this many people interested in France, I will make detailed pictures of the turntable and arm .
See you soon. Vincent
I had you contacted some time ago about the Versa.
Since then, I found one in France (the only! ) in working condition but I had a lot of work on it for reliable operation. I contacted the designer (John Bicht) but it is not very talkative about his turntables and you must pay for information . So I managed alone and with the help of a very nice gentleman met on vinyl engine (Tube4life) which has a 2.0 and 1.2 that knows them well. Thanks to him I got it working without problems.
If this many people interested in France, I will make detailed pictures of the turntable and arm .
See you soon. Vincent
Attachments
Ok, Vincent -
You have the earlier 1.X without the removable "head shell".
But what are those two shiny things on the rear side of the moving arm part??
There was some sort of "eddy current" damper said to be installed on some units,
wondering if perhaps this is it, and if so, what the details are (closeup jpeg might work)?
_-_-bear
You have the earlier 1.X without the removable "head shell".
But what are those two shiny things on the rear side of the moving arm part??
There was some sort of "eddy current" damper said to be installed on some units,
wondering if perhaps this is it, and if so, what the details are (closeup jpeg might work)?
_-_-bear
Hi Bear
Yes, I have a version 1.0. The difference lies mainly in the removable" head shell "
The two shiny things on the rear side of the moving arm part are just guides for additional counterweight to the cells of more than 7.5 grams. There is no "eddy current" damper, just on 2.3 and some 2.0. If you want some detailed pictures, it will be with pleasure. I'd love to know how you change the wiring arm. If you could take some pictures when removing it would help me.
Yes, I have a version 1.0. The difference lies mainly in the removable" head shell "
The two shiny things on the rear side of the moving arm part are just guides for additional counterweight to the cells of more than 7.5 grams. There is no "eddy current" damper, just on 2.3 and some 2.0. If you want some detailed pictures, it will be with pleasure. I'd love to know how you change the wiring arm. If you could take some pictures when removing it would help me.
I believe the tonearm bearing is a Precision Instruments bearing (really expensive) with a special internal "groove" pattern to control the air distribution. The clearances are usually in the 5-10 microinches range so be very careful handling it. Even getting finger grease in it will lock it up totally. I know nothing about the main bearing.
I would replace the stepper. It was done back when "microstepping" was really hot technology. That really means higher frequency torque ripple. However Tam was very happy with it when it worked and he is really picky.
I would replace the stepper. It was done back when "microstepping" was really hot technology. That really means higher frequency torque ripple. However Tam was very happy with it when it worked and he is really picky.
The air exiting the interphase between the tube and headshell is critical. I built a few and found this area difficult to get right with low psi. The eminent technology,s ET1 and 2 that I have both are basically a stainless steel screw put into a sloppy threaded hole that Allows the air to circulate around this as it passes to the exit interphase somewhat turbulent. This works out perfectly and allows about 2.8psi to float the weight of the combined mass.
Can you tell me the pressure VD uses to float this combination and can someone post a picture ( if and when you pull it apart ) of how this internal interphase looks like? This must be a fairly high pressure.
Regards
David
Can you tell me the pressure VD uses to float this combination and can someone post a picture ( if and when you pull it apart ) of how this internal interphase looks like? This must be a fairly high pressure.
Regards
David
I was wrong earlier, the company is professional instruments. Here is a link to details on their air bearings: Groove Compensation of Externally-Pressurized Air Bearing Films | Professional Instruments Company You typically need at least 40 psi of extremely clean dry air for them to work. The volume required isn't too high.
Normally you would only open one of these bearings in a clean room since even dust can lock one up.
Normally you would only open one of these bearings in a clean room since even dust can lock one up.
Looking at patent# 3305282 (1967)
Shows a rectangular spiral groove and horizontal grooves that vary in length
around that width. All I can say you ain't going to be building one of these anytime soon in your garage! Dang!
There's more than one way to skin this cat I,m sure to do same thing although I haven't
figured it out just yet
Regards
David
Shows a rectangular spiral groove and horizontal grooves that vary in length
around that width. All I can say you ain't going to be building one of these anytime soon in your garage! Dang!
There's more than one way to skin this cat I,m sure to do same thing although I haven't
figured it out just yet
Regards
David
Just do it the American way- surplus. A quick scan of eBay turned up several items that would enable building a very premium turntable. First for the main bearing AIR BEARING TECHNOLOGY AIR SPINDLE 85-90 PSI | eBay and for the tone arm use this Dover Manual Linear Air Bearing Slide Stage | eBay with a servo sensor on a tone arm mounted on it. There are a number of other equvalent items on ebay. Most cost over $5,000 new. most are selling for less than $200. The linear slides are less common. Do your homework before using one of these.
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