This is what came with my order from Audio-Silente. It fits in the bottom of my motor beneath the spindle. The spindle has the original 2mm bearing in it. What is the diameter supposed to be and where would I get one?
I wasn't sure what to call it but I am talking about the motor. Not the main platter spindle housing. Still probably using the wrong words for what I am trying to describe. Sorry.
m
I wasn't sure what to call it but I am talking about the motor. Not the main platter spindle housing. Still probably using the wrong words for what I am trying to describe. Sorry.
m
If this is for the motor it's the right size, your last post was somewhat lacking in context. It fits in a recess in the bottom of the bearing housing. I might have misunderstood.. LOL
It should be retained by the bearing assembly if assembled correctly? Can you take some pictures of the assembly as you put it back together? The way the spring washer is installed is important, but it is so long since I did it I no longer remember the orientation. It is fairly obvious if oriented incorrectly..
It should be retained by the bearing assembly if assembled correctly? Can you take some pictures of the assembly as you put it back together? The way the spring washer is installed is important, but it is so long since I did it I no longer remember the orientation. It is fairly obvious if oriented incorrectly..
I put my motor back together and ran it for 30 hours. Everything sounded good with the stethoscope. The motor was pretty hot but I did not get a reading on exactly how hot. I picked up a Digital Laser Tachometer to help me out. It read 1733.3rpm at the motor pulley with no belt attached. I read a post on AK that 1740rpm was considered a good build.
I then reinstalled the platter to take a look at the strobe. Results are not that good.
It was warm so it came to speed within 10 minutes. I let it cool down and tried again with a cold start to confirm my failure. It still does not come up to speed as quickly as it should.
This TT is serial# 3427.
The resistance on the coils are:
Black to Red = 84 and 83
Black to Green = 264.4 and 264.8
Black to Yellow = 55.3 and 54.8
Are these acceptable?
I do have a new set of coils. I just thought it would be good practice to try to get as much as I can out of the original coils. Would the new coils solve my problems?
I do reach speed eventually and it remains steady once there. It just seems like there is not enough torque to get things going.
The other problem may be my motor bushings. I soaked them in 20w oil but I did not go through the procedure of heating them up. They are from Audio-Silente and I believe arrive pre loaded so i did not bother. But maybe I should?
I am sure my motor build could be improved upon but I still think there is something I am missing.
I am also in the process of reading this entire thread again. I took notes the last time but I must have missed something. I have regularly visited The Analog Dept. for years. First, for my TD-160 and now the TD-124.
I don't think it is lack of information. It is knowledge, experience and execution.
I then reinstalled the platter to take a look at the strobe. Results are not that good.
It was warm so it came to speed within 10 minutes. I let it cool down and tried again with a cold start to confirm my failure. It still does not come up to speed as quickly as it should. This TT is serial# 3427.
The resistance on the coils are:
Black to Red = 84 and 83
Black to Green = 264.4 and 264.8
Black to Yellow = 55.3 and 54.8
Are these acceptable?
I do have a new set of coils. I just thought it would be good practice to try to get as much as I can out of the original coils. Would the new coils solve my problems?
I do reach speed eventually and it remains steady once there. It just seems like there is not enough torque to get things going.
The other problem may be my motor bushings. I soaked them in 20w oil but I did not go through the procedure of heating them up. They are from Audio-Silente and I believe arrive pre loaded so i did not bother. But maybe I should?
I am sure my motor build could be improved upon but I still think there is something I am missing.
I am also in the process of reading this entire thread again. I took notes the last time but I must have missed something. I have regularly visited The Analog Dept. for years. First, for my TD-160 and now the TD-124.
I don't think it is lack of information. It is knowledge, experience and execution.
Also Kevinkr,
I will take pictures as I move forward. I did open up my motor after the most recent attempt and the thrust pad was right where it belongs. I just read somewhere else to put a dab of grease underneath to keep it down. My motor spindle does move up and down a bit when you pull on it. I thought that while upside down maybe the pad could jiggle around in there.
m
I will take pictures as I move forward. I did open up my motor after the most recent attempt and the thrust pad was right where it belongs. I just read somewhere else to put a dab of grease underneath to keep it down. My motor spindle does move up and down a bit when you pull on it. I thought that while upside down maybe the pad could jiggle around in there.
m
Hey TerribleT,
I actually have that page open as well. I think I may need a day or two away from this TT.
m
wow. what an amazing thread.
i'm experimenting with a speed controller and am wondering what voltage people like (of 120v) I've been using 108v 60hz.
The speed controller is also helpful because the speed takes about 20 min to stabilize (i think as the motor warms up) and i can give it 120v on start up and then drop it down a bit as it warms up. I leave the eddy brake set for 108v when warm. Very solid and extremely quiet when warm.
i'm experimenting with a speed controller and am wondering what voltage people like (of 120v) I've been using 108v 60hz.
The speed controller is also helpful because the speed takes about 20 min to stabilize (i think as the motor warms up) and i can give it 120v on start up and then drop it down a bit as it warms up. I leave the eddy brake set for 108v when warm. Very solid and extremely quiet when warm.
Here I am. Back again. I have not had a lot of time to work on my TT or listen that much. Things are better but still so many little things to sort out. I removed the platter to take a look yesterday and found a deep scratch on both motor pulley and stepped pulley. I think i did not clean them well enough before putting back in. Does anybody know what to use to remove the scratches? It is too much work for Brasso. I have a piece of Trizact 3000. Would that be appropriate with the pulley mounted in my drill?
Thanks,
m
Thanks,
m
Hi everyone!
I also have a motor with updated coils from Audiosilente.
I completely replaced the coils in the old motor, however, I did not get the expected motor rotations of 1440 rpm, the motor bushings were replaced with new ones and lubricated, the bearing at the base of the motor shaft was also updated, as was the thrust plate.
Therefore, I decided to go the other way and put a more powerful PAPST motor with the ability to rotate 1500 rpm.
Now I'm at the final assembly stage.
E50 Motor
PAPST Motor
I also have a motor with updated coils from Audiosilente.
I completely replaced the coils in the old motor, however, I did not get the expected motor rotations of 1440 rpm, the motor bushings were replaced with new ones and lubricated, the bearing at the base of the motor shaft was also updated, as was the thrust plate.
Therefore, I decided to go the other way and put a more powerful PAPST motor with the ability to rotate 1500 rpm.
Now I'm at the final assembly stage.
E50 Motor
PAPST Motor
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Looking for 'budget'/DIY fixes!!
Wow...this is a mammoth thread.
I'm searching for wisdoms, hoping I might be cheeky here...and avoid wading through 2835 posts.....
Have been honoured with the task of 'servicing' a TD124/2 by an old gimmer friend of mine! (The original UK purchaser in '67....quite un-molested condition)
He recalls spending around £60....a typical 5 weeks of wage at that time. Not sure if that included the attached 3009!!!
.....and I just know he'll be wanting to fork out as little as possible on parts
(Yorkshiremen are well known for having this attitude )
....and I'm providing Labour....FREE!!!!
Hoping to discover any DIY fixes out there.....thinking mushrooms and idler wheel for starters!!
Wow...this is a mammoth thread.
I'm searching for wisdoms, hoping I might be cheeky here...and avoid wading through 2835 posts.....
Have been honoured with the task of 'servicing' a TD124/2 by an old gimmer friend of mine! (The original UK purchaser in '67....quite un-molested condition)
He recalls spending around £60
....a typical 5 weeks of wage at that time. Not sure if that included the attached 3009!!!.....and I just know he'll be wanting to fork out as little as possible on parts
(Yorkshiremen are well known for having this attitude
)....and I'm providing Labour....FREE!!!!
Hoping to discover any DIY fixes out there.....thinking mushrooms and idler wheel for starters!!
Mushrooms definitely, idler maybe - not necessarily. Motor bearing kit from Audio Silente.
Check main bearing for scoring and wear, you can press in new sintered bushings if need be and polish the shaft. There is a significant variance in bushings as well as bearing housing internal diameter so measure ID and OD of old bushings and confirm that you get the right ones. I have had ones that were both too loose and too tight.
Check the intermediate pulley bushings and shaft for wear. Bushings can be replaced but it's a bit of a challenge without the right tools.
Everything needs to be cleaned and lubricated. Lots of guidance on oil here, be sure to use appropriate viscosity or you may have difficulty getting the table to run at correct speed.
Replace the cap across the power switch with a modern X cap.
I would guess the £60 would have been for the table (aka transcription motor) only. The arm might have been another £14 or so? (I seem to recall 13 guineas, but I am not sure where that came from.) In the mid 1970s the S2 Improved went for around £55 IIRC.
Check main bearing for scoring and wear, you can press in new sintered bushings if need be and polish the shaft. There is a significant variance in bushings as well as bearing housing internal diameter so measure ID and OD of old bushings and confirm that you get the right ones. I have had ones that were both too loose and too tight.
Check the intermediate pulley bushings and shaft for wear. Bushings can be replaced but it's a bit of a challenge without the right tools.
Everything needs to be cleaned and lubricated. Lots of guidance on oil here, be sure to use appropriate viscosity or you may have difficulty getting the table to run at correct speed.
Replace the cap across the power switch with a modern X cap.
I would guess the £60 would have been for the table (aka transcription motor) only. The arm might have been another £14 or so? (I seem to recall 13 guineas, but I am not sure where that came from.) In the mid 1970s the S2 Improved went for around £55 IIRC.
Hi Denstyle,
You've got one of the very best Papst motors there! Unfortunately it's not the best to use in conjunction with the td124, unless you also use something like the SG4 speed controller. Your Papst is one of the synchronous ones, which means that the eddy current mechanism is of very little or no use.
Papst outer rotor motors come in different designs, depending on the magnetic characteristics of the steel used in the rotor. The one Papst made specifically for Thorens used quite a 'soft' steel, allowing for a 'close to, but not quite' synchronous motor that works in conjunction with the eddy current mechanism.
I have around 20 Papst outer rotor motors, around half are synchronous, the rest differ in the closeness to synchronous they achieve.
You've got one of the very best Papst motors there! Unfortunately it's not the best to use in conjunction with the td124, unless you also use something like the SG4 speed controller. Your Papst is one of the synchronous ones, which means that the eddy current mechanism is of very little or no use.
Papst outer rotor motors come in different designs, depending on the magnetic characteristics of the steel used in the rotor. The one Papst made specifically for Thorens used quite a 'soft' steel, allowing for a 'close to, but not quite' synchronous motor that works in conjunction with the eddy current mechanism.
I have around 20 Papst outer rotor motors, around half are synchronous, the rest differ in the closeness to synchronous they achieve.
Thanks for getting back Kevin
....so info. to be found in this thread??!
Intend to do as much cleaning/fettling as possible without renewing bits....if I can!
Yup...that's a nice cheap/easy one
....so info. to be found in this thread??!
Intend to do as much cleaning/fettling as possible without renewing bits....if I can!
Yup...that's a nice cheap/easy one