Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII - Page 283

mbergerooo · 26th November 2020, 09:36 PM

This is what came with my order from Audio-Silente. It fits in the bottom of my motor beneath the spindle. The spindle has the original 2mm bearing in it. What is the diameter supposed to be and where would I get one?
I wasn't sure what to call it but I am talking about the motor. Not the main platter spindle housing. Still probably using the wrong words for what I am trying to describe. Sorry.
m

kevinkr · 26th November 2020, 09:40 PM

If this is for the motor it's the right size, your last post was somewhat lacking in context. It fits in a recess in the bottom of the bearing housing. I might have misunderstood.. LOL

It should be retained by the bearing assembly if assembled correctly? Can you take some pictures of the assembly as you put it back together? The way the spring washer is installed is important, but it is so long since I did it I no longer remember the orientation. It is fairly obvious if oriented incorrectly..

TerribleT · 26th November 2020, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbergerooo

This is what came with my order from Audio-Silente. It fits in the bottom of my motor beneath the spindle. The spindle has the original 2mm bearing in it. What is the diameter supposed to be and where would I get one?
I wasn't sure what to call it but I am talking about the motor. Not the main platter spindle housing. Still probably using the wrong words for what I am trying to describe. Sorry.
m

Here's a 124 motor rebuld with pictures:

td124motor

Hope this helps.

mbergerooo · 27th November 2020, 10:03 PM

I put my motor back together and ran it for 30 hours. Everything sounded good with the stethoscope. The motor was pretty hot but I did not get a reading on exactly how hot. I picked up a Digital Laser Tachometer to help me out. It read 1733.3rpm at the motor pulley with no belt attached. I read a post on AK that 1740rpm was considered a good build.
I then reinstalled the platter to take a look at the strobe. Results are not that good.

It was warm so it came to speed within 10 minutes. I let it cool down and tried again with a cold start to confirm my failure. It still does not come up to speed as quickly as it should.
This TT is serial# 3427.
The resistance on the coils are:
Black to Red = 84 and 83
Black to Green = 264.4 and 264.8
Black to Yellow = 55.3 and 54.8
Are these acceptable?
I do have a new set of coils. I just thought it would be good practice to try to get as much as I can out of the original coils. Would the new coils solve my problems?
I do reach speed eventually and it remains steady once there. It just seems like there is not enough torque to get things going.
The other problem may be my motor bushings. I soaked them in 20w oil but I did not go through the procedure of heating them up. They are from Audio-Silente and I believe arrive pre loaded so i did not bother. But maybe I should?
I am sure my motor build could be improved upon but I still think there is something I am missing.
I am also in the process of reading this entire thread again. I took notes the last time but I must have missed something. I have regularly visited The Analog Dept. for years. First, for my TD-160 and now the TD-124.
I don't think it is lack of information. It is knowledge, experience and execution.

mbergerooo · 27th November 2020, 10:09 PM

Also Kevinkr,
I will take pictures as I move forward. I did open up my motor after the most recent attempt and the thrust pad was right where it belongs. I just read somewhere else to put a dab of grease underneath to keep it down. My motor spindle does move up and down a bit when you pull on it. I thought that while upside down maybe the pad could jiggle around in there.
m

mbergerooo · 27th November 2020, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleT

Here's a 124 motor rebuld with pictures:

td124motor

Hope this helps.

Hey TerribleT,
I actually have that page open as well. I think I may need a day or two away from this TT.
m

mbergerooo · 28th November 2020, 08:22 AM

Well here we go. Post #991. Old coils = 1380-1400rpm. So there is still a bit of room to improve.

m

mbergerooo · 28th November 2020, 11:32 PM

I am also thinking that this cheap Tachometer is lying to me.

m

porkfried · 28th November 2020, 11:55 PM

Does anyone know where to source motor bearing plate rivets in US? Thanks

hirscwi · 29th November 2020, 01:36 PM

Mcmaster.com has them. Small machine screws work also.

26th November 2020, 09:40 PM	#2822
kevinkr diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Boston, Massachusetts	If this is for the motor it's the right size, your last post was somewhat lacking in context. It fits in a recess in the bottom of the bearing housing. I might have misunderstood.. LOL It should be retained by the bearing assembly if assembled correctly? Can you take some pictures of the assembly as you put it back together? The way the spring washer is installed is important, but it is so long since I did it I no longer remember the orientation. It is fairly obvious if oriented incorrectly.. __________________ "To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead." - Thomas Paine

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26th November 2020, 09:36 PM	#2821
mbergerooo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Salish Sea	This is what came with my order from Audio-Silente. It fits in the bottom of my motor beneath the spindle. The spindle has the original 2mm bearing in it. What is the diameter supposed to be and where would I get one? I wasn't sure what to call it but I am talking about the motor. Not the main platter spindle housing. Still probably using the wrong words for what I am trying to describe. Sorry. m

27th November 2020, 10:03 PM	#2824
mbergerooo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Salish Sea	I put my motor back together and ran it for 30 hours. Everything sounded good with the stethoscope. The motor was pretty hot but I did not get a reading on exactly how hot. I picked up a Digital Laser Tachometer to help me out. It read 1733.3rpm at the motor pulley with no belt attached. I read a post on AK that 1740rpm was considered a good build. I then reinstalled the platter to take a look at the strobe. Results are not that good. It was warm so it came to speed within 10 minutes. I let it cool down and tried again with a cold start to confirm my failure. It still does not come up to speed as quickly as it should. This TT is serial# 3427. The resistance on the coils are: Black to Red = 84 and 83 Black to Green = 264.4 and 264.8 Black to Yellow = 55.3 and 54.8 Are these acceptable? I do have a new set of coils. I just thought it would be good practice to try to get as much as I can out of the original coils. Would the new coils solve my problems? I do reach speed eventually and it remains steady once there. It just seems like there is not enough torque to get things going. The other problem may be my motor bushings. I soaked them in 20w oil but I did not go through the procedure of heating them up. They are from Audio-Silente and I believe arrive pre loaded so i did not bother. But maybe I should? I am sure my motor build could be improved upon but I still think there is something I am missing. I am also in the process of reading this entire thread again. I took notes the last time but I must have missed something. I have regularly visited The Analog Dept. for years. First, for my TD-160 and now the TD-124. I don't think it is lack of information. It is knowledge, experience and execution.

27th November 2020, 10:09 PM	#2825
mbergerooo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Salish Sea	Also Kevinkr, I will take pictures as I move forward. I did open up my motor after the most recent attempt and the thrust pad was right where it belongs. I just read somewhere else to put a dab of grease underneath to keep it down. My motor spindle does move up and down a bit when you pull on it. I thought that while upside down maybe the pad could jiggle around in there. m

28th November 2020, 08:22 AM	#2827
mbergerooo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Salish Sea	Well here we go. Post #991. Old coils = 1380-1400rpm. So there is still a bit of room to improve. m

28th November 2020, 11:32 PM	#2828
mbergerooo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Salish Sea	I am also thinking that this cheap Tachometer is lying to me. m

28th November 2020, 11:55 PM	#2829
porkfried diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2017	Does anyone know where to source motor bearing plate rivets in US? Thanks

29th November 2020, 01:36 PM	#2830
hirscwi diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Indianapolis, IN, USA	Mcmaster.com has them. Small machine screws work also.