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Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII
Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII
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Old 16th December 2014, 11:55 AM   #1511
missouricatman is offline missouricatman  United States
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I agree with user510 's comments.

To be clear since I posted so many photos, I have photographed only one set of E50 bushings. The only other set I own are the originals still in the motor.

In evaluating the surfaces of these parts, it's important to take into account digital noise present. Look at the part surface, then at some area just outside the part. In particular on the second set, the combination of lower lighting and high sharpening gives a certain amount of grain to everything. I apologize for that, but I'm simply not set up right now to do a better job.

That aside, while it may not be apparent in the photos, all of the bushings, save the E50 set, have a uniform appearance on all surfaces, I.D. and O.D. and that uniform appearance includes little "dots".

The set for the stepped pulley do look quite different, in that the alloy is much brighter and the "coral" look much more predominant. Thinking back, I can't say I know the provenance of the stepped pulley bushings. They might well have been part of that parts lot I purchased. I'll have to check. If that's the case I may opt to buy replacements from Simone, assuming he offers them.


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Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
Interesting, I see a few where it appears that the ID is solid bronze, in general there seems to be a lot of tooling marks on the running surfaces of some of these parts.

The second pair actually look like oilite, the others not sure.
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Old 16th December 2014, 02:34 PM   #1512
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII
Why not just check the fit of the stepped pulley bushings on the shaft, and measure the OD? They might be just fine.

I did not realize that those pictures were all of the same E50 bushing set. The important point is that the interior has been machined in such a fashion that it appears to completely block the pores.

The pair I recently removed from my MKII do not look like sintered bronze inside or out, and were absolutely dry when received. I dropped them in hot oil, but had problems immediately upon installation - did not have enough experience at that point to know definitively I had not done something wrong.

I can say the motor performed quite poorly compared to the one with original bushings. Several years of observing the differences hammered this point home, and I finally had to address it.
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Old 16th December 2014, 03:07 PM   #1513
missouricatman is offline missouricatman  United States
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I'm unfortunately one of those people who, at least for the moment, does not have a tool capable of measuring bushings, or for that matter, the pieces they fit into, with any degree of accuracy. If someone were to point me to a decent tool, plus a set of bore gauges, I'd be most appreciative.

Heck, I don't even know what the tolerances are supposed to be, so best I could do is, as you say, slip a bushing over a shaft and decide if it feels right - which I have a feeling is hardly the ideal way to do it!

I wonder how many people who decide to replace bushings are in the same boat as I.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
Why not just check the fit of the stepped pulley bushings on the shaft, and measure the OD? They might be just fine.

I did not realize that those pictures were all of the same E50 bushing set. The important point is that the interior has been machined in such a fashion that it appears to completely block the pores.

The pair I recently removed from my MKII do not look like sintered bronze inside or out, and were absolutely dry when received. I dropped them in hot oil, but had problems immediately upon installation - did not have enough experience at that point to know definitively I had not done something wrong.

I can say the motor performed quite poorly compared to the one with original bushings. Several years of observing the differences hammered this point home, and I finally had to address it.
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Old 18th December 2014, 04:08 AM   #1514
Enochrome is offline Enochrome  United States
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I have 124 mk 1 that has the plate between the motor and the pulley scraping against the pulley when in motion. Is that plate necessary? Also, it seems a little loose. Do I have to remove the motor to adjust that plate and how so?

Any help much appreciated
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Old 18th December 2014, 12:16 PM   #1515
missouricatman is offline missouricatman  United States
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I'm not certain, but could you be talking about the Eddy Current Brake? if so, yes, it needs to be adjusted. Here is a page that can tell you more.

EddyBrake



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Originally Posted by Enochrome View Post
I have 124 mk 1 that has the plate between the motor and the pulley scraping against the pulley when in motion. Is that plate necessary? Also, it seems a little loose. Do I have to remove the motor to adjust that plate and how so?

Any help much appreciated
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Old 18th December 2014, 12:18 PM   #1516
2wice is offline 2wice  South Africa
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I've been told that is an em shield and yes motor needs to be removed.
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Old 18th December 2014, 12:28 PM   #1517
missouricatman is offline missouricatman  United States
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I re-read your posting, and agree it sounds like you are talking about the shield. Check this photo.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/images/...0/DSC_4094.JPG

You do want to keep the shield. If you're planning on removing, cleaning and re-lubricating the motor, that would be the time to straighten out the shield.
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Old 18th December 2014, 02:00 PM   #1518
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII
As others have stated you need to keep the metal shield, what others have not stated is that it is reputedly mu-metal and should be handled with care in order to retain its shielding properties. (It looks like a sheet of mu-metal I have here so I think that is likely)

It floats on the motor supports.

Usually if the pulley is hitting it could mean one of several things:

  • motor pulley height is misadjusted - highly likely if you have ever removed the pulley
  • the shield is not properly seated on the motor mounting stanchions
  • The thrust pad is badly worn and the shaft has dropped slightly
Removing the shield depending on cartridge could result in significant hum pick up on the inner grooves of a record. (I worked on a 124 where the owner had removed, but fortunately retained the shield)
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Old 18th December 2014, 03:04 PM   #1519
missouricatman is offline missouricatman  United States
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Kevinkr makes a good point I hadn't considered. The pulley hitting the shield may be a symptom of wear or misalignment, not something wrong with the shield itself. my bad.
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Old 18th December 2014, 05:11 PM   #1520
Enochrome is offline Enochrome  United States
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Thanks guys for the insight. I am a little confused on "changing the height of the motor pulley" How does one do that? I see that there is a screw set in the motor pulley but that does not seem to affect the height of the pulley. One can pull the pulley up but it sets back into place. Adjusting the motor grommets does not adjust the plate it simply moves everything together. Do I have to remove the motor and disassemble the pulley from the motor itself? Is the placement of the motor to the chassis determined by the thickness of the grommets?

Sorry for all the questions, but I had a problem earlier with step pulley making noises, and read here to clean both pulleys and use baby powder on the belt and it worked like a dream; you guys obviously know what you are doing.

Thanks
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