IMHO there are a lot of subtleties. If you can machine it yourself, definitely go for it. You'll probably go through various clearances and lubrication types and schemes, not to mention materials. If you have to pay for machining, it might be better to just buy a proven unit. I haven't fooled with magnetically suspended designs, but others certainly use them. There's some interesting info on bearings at the Vinyl Engine.
CH
CH
There was one design which used a poppet valve and guide I seem to recall. The stem end of the valve sat on a single ball bearing. Claimed to work OK...!
Link here:
The Altmann DIY Turntable
Inexpensive, and works fair.
Ron
Hi Renron,
Thanks...that was it. All very interesting stuff, although I would be concerned about unleaded gasoline!!
Another hoax perpetrated on the masses! Lead was added to gasoline in the early days for it's lubrication properties. We were charged extra to have it mixed in. Later, we were charged extra to have it NOT mixed in!
If you are old enough, you remember when unleaded gasoline cost more than leaded gasoline...... We got screwed coming and going!
History class over.
Ron
Hey Ron,
I remember queuing for 101 octane..HiTest to you guys??...winding far too much advance on and kidding myself it made a difference.
I run a Jap car here in AU (having avoided buying one for years..), needs 95 octane...which guess what...costs more than 91 octane...so I get screwed again!
The consumer can never win!
I remember queuing for 101 octane..HiTest to you guys??...winding far too much advance on and kidding myself it made a difference.
I run a Jap car here in AU (having avoided buying one for years..), needs 95 octane...which guess what...costs more than 91 octane...so I get screwed again!
The consumer can never win!
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