Simplistic NJFET RIAA

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Tham said:
Hi Salas,

Using a Charlize T amp. Not sure if I can increase the gain at all. Speaker is a Coral 8A40 fullranger in an angular spiral horn enclosure coupled to a pair of diy subwoofers and recently added vintage Coral supertweeter for a truely fullrange speaker system. Sensitivity shall be around 96dB.

Can take some photos later but will have to learn how to load it here.

From what Nicoch posted on reply number 2075 in previous page, I see there are indeed options for the T Amp sensitivity. The first column values is what you need for sensitivity since you use a B1.
The speaker system is very interesting. The subs are self powered I suppose. But it is a sensitive system. Either the T Amp is set at plus 4dbu or you have a big room.

P.S. You may load directly up to 1000pixel, 100k, or use the IMG button so to link from a place like Imageshack for bigger pictures.
 
The FR + Supertweeter is powered by the T amp, a speaker level input is taken from the T amp to a diy active sub XO. The subs are powered by another amp. This arrangement imho give me the best integration.

I will look at thye datasheet for TA2020 to see if the gain can be increased for a bit more headroom. In my relatively small dedicated room, it is actually loud enough for normal listening.

Will try to load some photos later.
 
I am attempting to attach it here. Hope it work this time:)
 

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Sound fading away with higher voltage

Hello, I have built the RIAA and it worked well with three small 9 volt batteries in series. With the Shunt, and higher voltage (29 v), I find that the volume is much reduced. The sound is also distorted. The RIAA-stage is built with 2sk170 gr, idss 5.9-6.5 mA. The bl grade is difficult to get. What changes can be done?
 
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Re: Sound fading away with higher voltage

iwahn said:
Hello, I have built the RIAA and it worked well with three small 9 volt batteries in series. With the Shunt, and higher voltage (29 v), I find that the volume is much reduced. The sound is also distorted. The RIAA-stage is built with 2sk170 gr, idss 5.9-6.5 mA. The bl grade is difficult to get. What changes can be done?

The Idss you built it with has directly to do with the voltage and loading values used. The idss range I mention on the schematics, is central to the design, and to be followed. Link me to the exact version you built and I will simulate it with 6.2mA Idss average so to let you know where is best to set the shunt and/or possibly change some resistor value. What is the output of your cartridge?
 
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Well, your choices are at odds with two things. One is having 2SK170GR and plugging them in a 8-9mA Idss BL recommended schematic, second is that your cart is too low for choosing 48dB gain.

Anyway, here are the values for your GRs, 29V shunt, and Denon DL103. Even the load resistor is OK as it is recommended. For the 46k, use two 92k in parallel. Take out one Led and jumper its position. You use 3. Make sure that your Leds are 1.8V each, and that your GRs are matched per position between channels. Use your strongest pair for first stage.

Regards.
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Yes, but to hear well at all with your DL103 you will need some gain meantime. Before you decide on a new one, remove 103's plastic body. Nude is a whole new cart. There are guides. Even a video on YouTube.

Tell me if we succeeded with the new values, so to know there is not something else going wrong when you finish. Then you tell us more about system and sound. Possibly showing a photo too.

If finally you will need less dB, I am here to let you know how.
 

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That will be best. One nice and cheap with successful tone as you already have, and a bigger board experimental with parts one, so to compare step by step and tune in for that elusive synergistic uber tone! Did you add any gain to your T-Amp, or you feel its OK for your room after all? Killed the lights noise?
 
Salas, it is actually loud enough with volume control almost all the way up. Do not think I need to increase the gain of the T amp unless the system is moved to a bigger room.

It is amazing the noise was kept so low at those listening level. Those valve phono stages that I have before (ARC SP8, Jadis JP80) are so much noisier in comparison.

Will try the cap bypass at phono primary side when I get the parts soon.
 
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Maybe its better to have more 0.1uF X2 caps so to kill right on the switches of the fluorescent lights if it is difficult to get rid of it.

As it is with cheap almost random parts, is it comparable for tone quality with those expensive and revered phono stages, besides the noise level being better? What is the TT and arm again?
 
It is a heavy plinthed Lenco L75 tt with an Audio Technica AT16P 10" arm.

With random parts tonally it is a little thin in the midrange that I hope to improve on using good components. Bass is tight and tuneful and quite extended while high is crystal clear because of the very low noise level and never harsh even with the new supertweeter not optimally integrated.