Congrats. Use coax signal cable to board for lower noise. Why no C2Y? I believe you used same idss advised for k369 Q1 in k170 as Q1 too. Gain should result lower due to less Yfs. What output level cartridge now for what gain note in guide parts values?
P.S.
That Denon TT looks close to 1200mkii but with phono/line/spdif outputs. Is it as good as a 1200?
P.S.
That Denon TT looks close to 1200mkii but with phono/line/spdif outputs. Is it as good as a 1200?
I don't use C2Y as I have not done anything yet until the break-in period. I will try to trim it and others when I get the case and DL103R. I use the K170BL with 10.4 idss and change the R13 with 3.3K and R2 34 ohms parallel 68.1 ohms. Temporarily I use the shure M44 cartridge. I will use the rg174 coax as I have it in my drawer.
Thanks for this nice phono preamp.
Thanks for this nice phono preamp.
I have two Technics 1200 MKII and they go well with Denon cartridges like DL-110, 160, 103, 103R besides the obvious MM DJ cartridges like ORTOFON Concorde etc. Those decks never die, handling them is a dream and their arms are precision made and set up great. The arm bearings can loosen from prolonged & rough back cueing at the clubs. Got to watch for bearings play at the pivot by holding the wand on air and try moving it back and forth if buying second hand. Another point is they possibly handled them bad for headshells exchange, got to check there is no discontinuity for signal when pushing them to the joint. VTA ring at the arm's base works on the fly. Yours got one too I see.
Yes I bought my denon brand new from USA so I was happy with the main dual voltage. Yes it is easy to setup as I have the manual. The sound of the preamp has change a lot since this morning. First I have adjusted the voltage as there was a difference of .4V from the rectified voltage even I wound the transformer bifillar but was easy to adjust with the trimmer. After the shunt regulator the voltages is the same between channel. As to sound the bass is a little bit weak. If I add the C2Y will it increase the bass? My 200pf read as 200pf and the other is 195pf. I have also a matched 330pf. I don't use tone control just the VSSA amp with volume control. As to mid and high it is soooo good that I never heard it with my turntable before.
Thanks
Thanks
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Also since it is MM you should think about it if needing some Cload or another Rload instead. Your incoming cabling should have at least 150pF alone, remember. But put the RG174 first also. I suggest you read this sort informative article about loading MM and how influential some factors can be. The author is also a DIYA member.
Load the Magnets!!! - [English]
Load the Magnets!!! - [English]
Currently trying mine with 100pf C2Y and not as toppy as I had anticipated The sound also seems to have opened and tightened up;although that could be because the FSP has more hours on it.I will strap a 56pf across C2Y at some point to compare.
Listening to Roxy Music Manifesto at the moment.I really do like this.
Listening to Roxy Music Manifesto at the moment.I really do like this.
Currently trying mine with 100pf C2Y and not as toppy as I had anticipated The sound also seems to have opened and tightened up;although that could be because the FSP has more hours on it.I will strap a 56pf across C2Y at some point to compare.
Listening to Roxy Music Manifesto at the moment.I really do like this.
Most Roxy Music mixes tended to be rather toppy, not sure about the particular one. So if it passes enough pop mixes muster for non overt harshness and still open enough it should be near tonal equilibrium as an individual build.I will try it with different load and select the best load in the meantime. I will also try the 200pf for C2Y tomorrow as I brought the unit in my workplace. I will also use the remaining rg174 as part of it was used in the VSSA which make it dead silent.
I will read your suggested link and learn from it.
Thanks
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OK, let us know your progress. Is the cart you now use 9.5mV pro DJ variant and you get no clipping even after you made R2 smaller than original?
Hi Salas,
Sorry for my late response (Too busy at my work this week...).
I did see it once in Kiev VDNH (Ukraine) in 198X. VDNH - it is showoff exhibition for achievements of USSR consumer products industry. Almost all products introduced there were made in quantity 10 or 100 units max. Most of USSR people didn't ever see these products on the market. However, it is a Highest (real Hi-Fi back then) class TT since it marked 0XX as a model number. Raditechnica is 1XX - so it is a first class, and it is lower class than Korvet. Korvet made power apms too in 0XX class and these units sounded not less then top notch class equipment in the world back then. This magic metal ball was flatting in Ethanol and this design used as a replacement for a mechanical ball-bearing. Its price was about 300+ rubls. For the reference of income back then, my dad was a big engineering-lab manager in huge manufacture plant (he is specialized in physics/radiometry/dosimetery). His monthly post-tax income was equal to 175 rubls. As you see, it was a very expansive piece for that piece.
I'm sure it sounds exceptionally good, but I doubt that you can find one in good condition for sale today.
P.S. Just got my DE-5000 yesterday night. Will be nice weekend work around my lovey Folded phono. It is also sad in other hand, since that project will be done soon and I have no idea what to build next. I'll miss it....
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Definitely. I'll let you know how it is sound after C2 and C2Y matching and gain reduction will improve and matched my setup.
BTW: In addition to DE-500, I upgraded my Fluke 73 III to Fluke 87 V.
Yes my cart is 9.5mV pro DJ variant. I don't get clipping it is just a bit louder compared to the output of my computer in full volume and the iTunes also in full volume. Maybe I should adjust the R2 to get equal volume with my computer.
Thanks
Hi Salas,
Calibrated and used my new DE-5000 first time. So far for 1 Folded channel only.
C2 is (Vishay 15nF from my mini-kit) -> 14.948nF at 10kHz.
All my 100pF (also from mini-kit) are running from 99.3 till 100.84pF at 100kHz.
Hard to set puzzle for 15.2nF. I'm looking for some alternatives now with 47pF or 50pF.
Then I'll be able to construct 15.2nF tightly.
Does these frequencies which I used for my test are the right once for nF and pF ranges? I know 100Hz and 120Hz should be used for uF and mF.
Calibrated and used my new DE-5000 first time. So far for 1 Folded channel only.
C2 is (Vishay 15nF from my mini-kit) -> 14.948nF at 10kHz.
All my 100pF (also from mini-kit) are running from 99.3 till 100.84pF at 100kHz.
Hard to set puzzle for 15.2nF. I'm looking for some alternatives now with 47pF or 50pF.
Then I'll be able to construct 15.2nF tightly.
Does these frequencies which I used for my test are the right once for nF and pF ranges? I know 100Hz and 120Hz should be used for uF and mF.
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They should not differentiate much with frequency when having such high quality dielectrics but the nominal frequency is 1kHz to test those caps for. I had used 1kHz originally.
Not forgetting to run the instrument's calibration routine also periodically as many days may have passed till a new round of measurements or for large ambient temperature changes, or when changing probe type. 120Hz or 100Hz (optimized for different countries mains frequency as big lytics are many times found in PSU duty) is for testing all electrolytics for value and loss (D). Film caps are nominal at 1kHz also even if we talk bigger uF range types like those for loudspeaker crossovers or output coupling, PSU bypass etc.
You will probably be alright when reaching some 15.15nF++ value, its not obligatory to be 15.2nF spot on, more importantly stay matched enough between channels say no more than 0.5% difference. Since you now got a dedicated LCR, why not utilizing some practical RIAA precision. What you will like better in your system, you now know what it is. Note it down. You can even pick different quality caps in the future and you will know what value to sort out for. Say you chance on some film and tin foil and you wanna listen to, whatever. Or simply you change your mind about the treble balance with run in or changes in TT settings.You know what to add or subtract, its all characterized for value. BTW you should listen carefully if your now ~15.1nF is giving you preferable balance to the later 15.2nF ref value even. You got tube gear, you may prefer some little brilliance at source, or to the contrary you may want it duller than with ref value, your VTA or your tweeters could compensate towards some direction, never know.
Not forgetting to run the instrument's calibration routine also periodically as many days may have passed till a new round of measurements or for large ambient temperature changes, or when changing probe type. 120Hz or 100Hz (optimized for different countries mains frequency as big lytics are many times found in PSU duty) is for testing all electrolytics for value and loss (D). Film caps are nominal at 1kHz also even if we talk bigger uF range types like those for loudspeaker crossovers or output coupling, PSU bypass etc.
You will probably be alright when reaching some 15.15nF++ value, its not obligatory to be 15.2nF spot on, more importantly stay matched enough between channels say no more than 0.5% difference. Since you now got a dedicated LCR, why not utilizing some practical RIAA precision. What you will like better in your system, you now know what it is. Note it down. You can even pick different quality caps in the future and you will know what value to sort out for. Say you chance on some film and tin foil and you wanna listen to, whatever. Or simply you change your mind about the treble balance with run in or changes in TT settings.You know what to add or subtract, its all characterized for value. BTW you should listen carefully if your now ~15.1nF is giving you preferable balance to the later 15.2nF ref value even. You got tube gear, you may prefer some little brilliance at source, or to the contrary you may want it duller than with ref value, your VTA or your tweeters could compensate towards some direction, never know.