Ricardo, the best way is to select them with a C meter
It shouldn't be that difficult, as, according to my experience, 5% caps have generally an effective value slightly lower than the nominal value stamped on them.
That means most probably a 15 nF cap is a 14,8-14.9 nF one. Once you find two right pieces, simply add two 1% (or selected) 1000 pF caps to get 15,8 nF.
It shouldn't be that difficult, as, according to my experience, 5% caps have generally an effective value slightly lower than the nominal value stamped on them.
That means most probably a 15 nF cap is a 14,8-14.9 nF one. Once you find two right pieces, simply add two 1% (or selected) 1000 pF caps to get 15,8 nF.
Thank you for your answers.
So I must start with a precision 15n and fine tune with mica/polystyrene.
And this is the most critical point for RIAA high freq acuracy.
As I do not own a C meter I believe it must be done by trial and error.
PS
How is the cascoded version ? Better Bass?
Regards
Ricardo
So I must start with a precision 15n and fine tune with mica/polystyrene.
And this is the most critical point for RIAA high freq acuracy.
As I do not own a C meter I believe it must be done by trial and error.
PS
How is the cascoded version ? Better Bass?
Regards
Ricardo
I agree with you but there are others that do not. I can understand the digital idea mainly after my latest CDP upgrades.salas said:
It is possible to have high definition highly musical and dynamic sound with CD.. (After two years modding, my CD53 souns awesome).
It is so good that now I need to upgrade my RIAA in order to balance things again.
Do not take me wrong... I still prefer the wide sounstage and high precision low distortion sound of a good TT... but I need some more speed and transient power now.
Note:
Yesterday I implemented the DIY armaggedon with a 220/110v 160va TX in my premotec....
Lower noise floor.... better detail retrieval.... (Like adding a dedicated psu on the CDP decoder).
I am amazed
Regards
Ricardo
RCruz said:PS
How is the cascoded version ? Better Bass?
Regards
Ricardo
I won't tell before I make proper A-B.
Nothing dramatic, want to see what is really good, not merely different. Had to play for a week, all components are new. I wanna be fair and look well in to the issues, not go on recommending more complex stuff for no real reason.
RCruz said:
That is why I used ''warts an all''. I have listened well and set up extremely expensive systems with digital front end due to my part time help for a prestigious dealership. I still have to hear for ''natural way'' when I play a funk tune on a CDP. All resolution and silence and solidity is in abundance, still my foot won't tap. When an accompaniment goes on from guitar or keyboards, when the bassist drives, it is still no real interplay. Never had a good Brazilian tune talk to me on CD like from a vinyl record, even when dirtier or lesser in resolution, turning on a humble but correctly set TT.
I agree that vinyl replay has a certain "something". I do know however, that I will struggle to match the detail & resolution of my highly modified Marantz CD94.
Hopefully I will get a board layout designed and etched tomorrow for this phono stage. I may need to, as some of my parts are smt. Can't wait to hear it in action.
Lee.
Hopefully I will get a board layout designed and etched tomorrow for this phono stage. I may need to, as some of my parts are smt. Can't wait to hear it in action.
Lee.
Thomo said:
You need to listen to a Benz or Dyna or something alike near 1k figure, on an excellent pricey arm, based on a rather pricey TT. Say 4k total. Replay some special 45rpm heavy vinyl pressings of really good recordings. Then compare a 4k CDP.
Using an old nice TT to play our old records through a musical DIY phono, is surely fun and big bang for the money, but avoid the temptation to automatically form any conclusions about vinyl and CD based on such a limited concept. If you get some pcb files, people here will benefit from an upload.
Hi Salas, one day I hope to get the opportunity to listen to something as exotic as that! A friend has a Garrard 401 in an SME plinth, with a Mayware Unipivot arm, old Grado cart & a Trichord Dino Phono Stage. It does sound very nice indeed, though I realise it's not really "high-end". I am very impressed by the Dino, for a commercial product at that price.
No problem posting a board layout. I shall try to make it as flexible as possible, allowing for different sizes of caps etc.
Cheers, Lee.
No problem posting a board layout. I shall try to make it as flexible as possible, allowing for different sizes of caps etc.
Cheers, Lee.
A board layout would be great. Now what we need is a really good regulator for the B+. Anyone have a "SuperReg" style schematic for one? I also need to replace my beloved Blue Point, but don't have the coin to send it in for trade or Soundsmith. I my be interested in that low hour DL160, drop me any email if you want to sell it.
cygnus x1 said:
Hi Cygnus,
I do have simulated a shunt reg, I will try it sooner or later. If there are any brave guys wanting to jump the gun, here is the idea attached. It is a 37V example. It can be set to any voltage easily.
The 5.6R sets the current source. Vbe/Rset (0.7V/5.6R=125mA). Two Salas RIAA channels consume about 40mA if buffer is included, or 20-25mA if not. The rest goes to earth via the shunt P-Mosfet. Must be heat sinked for 5W dissipation. The CCS Mosfet might stand the 0.5W dissipation for 43V raw input, if it is TO-247 case, or it might not in the long term. A light sink is advisable. The Zener value + Vbe sets the regulated voltage output value. Choose the Zener needed for each RIAA version B+ needs. Use 6-8V more than Vreg for raw rectified input. If it turns out excessive due to given trafo etc, you can drop it on some 5W resistor before the main filter cap. The BC560 controls the current source, and the BC550 enhances the ripple rejection by controlling the shunt Mosfet. If you wanna run the reg hotter by using a smaller Rset, use a 2-5W Rset and tackle the heavier sinking needs. I don't know, it might have a subjective sweet spot for total mA running.
We need 2 P-Mosfets 100V - 200V, 2A-12A, 20W-150W. The IRFP9240 is good, has low Rds On, the IRF9610 is TO-220 and much faster (low parasitic capacitance). But there is a numerous array of parts that can work. I DON'T know if something will not work right considering oscillation dangers with different MOSFETS. Its a simple circuit but I haven't made it yet.
Non the less, that is what I would do instead of a better than 317 series reg. In tube gear the shunt regs open up the sound always (regulating with radioactive pink tubes yeah!). Especially the 3D , mid naturalness and rhythm, benefit.
I just show it here in a preliminary fashion since some people are in the process of putting things and PCBs together, and they may regret my otherwise not hinting.
There are reg experts around, please review the thing for obvious problems.
I repeat, I haven't tired it practically yet. I know nothing more. Its up to you if you wanna make an early experiment.
