I'm Back
Hi Paul,
still need to add and pay for (2) IR board sets. I bought (2) VCCS boards back on 2/19. I'll PayPal you £27.54 (£13.77 x 2) directly.
One question! The Storm keypad; that's something we're on our own to get right?
I just read the whole forum for the 1st time and copied all pertinent data etc, Geez, it's 5:30AM; took about 6.5 hours. Believe I'll go with George's suggestion; the 'Grounded Cathode Follower' to buffer for Nelson's amps: high voltage doesn't bother me, current is the real 'fryier'.
Hey guys: surprised no one has mentioned that each persons leftover-unmatched LDR's should be 'pooled' together and re-tested for possible matches. Gather your potential resources, rotate or 'lottery' the tester. Seems that if Silonex keeps getting large orders for these, they'll 'jack' up prices. Just a suggestion.
George HI-FI : Cheers to You! Not often someone garners admiration for the elegant simplicity of their creation from someone like Nelson Pass.
Charles....
Hi Paul,
still need to add and pay for (2) IR board sets. I bought (2) VCCS boards back on 2/19. I'll PayPal you £27.54 (£13.77 x 2) directly.
One question! The Storm keypad; that's something we're on our own to get right?
I just read the whole forum for the 1st time and copied all pertinent data etc, Geez, it's 5:30AM; took about 6.5 hours. Believe I'll go with George's suggestion; the 'Grounded Cathode Follower' to buffer for Nelson's amps: high voltage doesn't bother me, current is the real 'fryier'.
Hey guys: surprised no one has mentioned that each persons leftover-unmatched LDR's should be 'pooled' together and re-tested for possible matches. Gather your potential resources, rotate or 'lottery' the tester. Seems that if Silonex keeps getting large orders for these, they'll 'jack' up prices. Just a suggestion.
George HI-FI : Cheers to You! Not often someone garners admiration for the elegant simplicity of their creation from someone like Nelson Pass.
Charles....
The Storm Keypad
Paul,
Is the keypad you are using?
http://uk.farnell.com/storm-interface/90040101/keypad-4-way-illum/dp/207032
Alan
Paul,
Is the keypad you are using?
http://uk.farnell.com/storm-interface/90040101/keypad-4-way-illum/dp/207032
Alan
Re: I'm Back
I did Charles here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1210870#post1210870
But no takers? I'm glad to see at least one other like minded person on this forum
cowboy99 said:
I did Charles here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1210870#post1210870
But no takers? I'm glad to see at least one other like minded person on this forum
Lightspeed remote control
Hi Folks,
I am still getting e-mails asking about board and module group buy pricing for the VCCS remote control system for Lightspeed so this post is to clarify these details. Note that the infra red modules have now been costed.
The Voltage Controlled Current Source board (VCCS),
VCCS Printed circuit board £12
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £02.24
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £05.74
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £06.14
VCCS built and tested module without LDRs £60
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £03.00
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £06.63
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £07.33
The Infra Red Transmitter and Receiver boards (IRTR),
IRTR Printed circuit boards £13.77
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £02.24
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £05.74
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £06.14
IRTR built and tested modules £49.60
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £03.00
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £06.63
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £07.33
Orders for more than one item at a time could have reduced overall carriage costs. I will assess this on a case by case basis.
You can send Paypal payments to paul@paulhynesdesign.com making sure you pay for any currency conversion costs to GBP (GB Pounds).
Regards
Paul
Hi Folks,
I am still getting e-mails asking about board and module group buy pricing for the VCCS remote control system for Lightspeed so this post is to clarify these details. Note that the infra red modules have now been costed.
The Voltage Controlled Current Source board (VCCS),
VCCS Printed circuit board £12
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £02.24
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £05.74
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £06.14
VCCS built and tested module without LDRs £60
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £03.00
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £06.63
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £07.33
The Infra Red Transmitter and Receiver boards (IRTR),
IRTR Printed circuit boards £13.77
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £02.24
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £05.74
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £06.14
IRTR built and tested modules £49.60
Recorded delivery/packaging UK £03.00
Recorded delivery/packaging Europe £06.63
Recorded delivery/packaging rest of world £07.33
Orders for more than one item at a time could have reduced overall carriage costs. I will assess this on a case by case basis.
You can send Paypal payments to paul@paulhynesdesign.com making sure you pay for any currency conversion costs to GBP (GB Pounds).
Regards
Paul
Lightspeed remote control
Hi Folks,
For those interested in the Storm keypad that I am using, it is from the 2000 series, and is a 4 key industrial keypad with laser-etched cursors on the pads. It is rated for 4 million pad cycles and can take severe abuse from children and spouses that are prone to throwing remote controls about if they do not get their own way. I think it may even be beer and wine proof if you use the gasket when you assemble the remote control, although I am not about to test this. I changed the keys around to suit a more logical arrangement for remote volume control.
The case I used for the remote control is a Hammond 1455 series type 1455J1602.
These items, the battery holder, NiMH batteries and battery charger I use are not included with the modules
Regards
Paul
Hi Folks,
For those interested in the Storm keypad that I am using, it is from the 2000 series, and is a 4 key industrial keypad with laser-etched cursors on the pads. It is rated for 4 million pad cycles and can take severe abuse from children and spouses that are prone to throwing remote controls about if they do not get their own way. I think it may even be beer and wine proof if you use the gasket when you assemble the remote control, although I am not about to test this. I changed the keys around to suit a more logical arrangement for remote volume control.
The case I used for the remote control is a Hammond 1455 series type 1455J1602.
These items, the battery holder, NiMH batteries and battery charger I use are not included with the modules
Regards
Paul
I should have mentioned that the temperature sweep I showed on the previous page was done in 2.5 deg C increments from 0 to 50 C.
I became interested in this thread as an inexpensive way to replace the noisy pots in both my Pioneer SX-838 (which now runs with an LM4702 and matched lateral MOSFET's) and my Yamaha A-10 (running LM4702 and single lateral MOSFET).
As I bias the MOSFETs to 145 mA per device there is quite a bit more heat generated within the cabinet than, say, you were using the attenuator stand-alone. In fact, the Yamaha has pretty high rail voltage for something which will only do 50 wpc, so the temperature within the cabinet gets over 40 deg C.
This shouldn't be an issue if you are using the attenuator on its own.
I became interested in this thread as an inexpensive way to replace the noisy pots in both my Pioneer SX-838 (which now runs with an LM4702 and matched lateral MOSFET's) and my Yamaha A-10 (running LM4702 and single lateral MOSFET).
As I bias the MOSFETs to 145 mA per device there is quite a bit more heat generated within the cabinet than, say, you were using the attenuator stand-alone. In fact, the Yamaha has pretty high rail voltage for something which will only do 50 wpc, so the temperature within the cabinet gets over 40 deg C.
This shouldn't be an issue if you are using the attenuator on its own.
The switch is really expensive. Maybe not for that kind of switch, but expensive anyway.
Could use 4 of these
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-155/SPST-N.O.-PUSHBUTTON/1.html
Or something similar. If they break you can buy another for less than a buck.
Few of these would work and probably never break. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-143/HD-METAL-PUSHBUTTON-N.O.-MOMENTARY/-/1.html
Any momentary switch should work.
Am I right Paul that any momentary should do the trick? Seems that way but not sure how your IR boards are working with it.
Uriah
Could use 4 of these
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-155/SPST-N.O.-PUSHBUTTON/1.html
Or something similar. If they break you can buy another for less than a buck.
Few of these would work and probably never break. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-143/HD-METAL-PUSHBUTTON-N.O.-MOMENTARY/-/1.html
Any momentary switch should work.
Am I right Paul that any momentary should do the trick? Seems that way but not sure how your IR boards are working with it.
Uriah
Re: Lightspeed remote control
With the Storm keypad having Up/Down/Left/Right buttons, is there any way to use the Left/Right buttons to control the input source? My B1 has a Twisted Pear Darwin source selector that is relay-based. That would seem to be a pretty easy integration w/ the IR receiver. Any thoughts?
maximus said:
With the Storm keypad having Up/Down/Left/Right buttons, is there any way to use the Left/Right buttons to control the input source? My B1 has a Twisted Pear Darwin source selector that is relay-based. That would seem to be a pretty easy integration w/ the IR receiver. Any thoughts?
Re: Lightspeed remote control
Sweet! This is what I'm looking at:
Darwin is a is a relay switched 6 source 2 output source selector with integrated optional loop. It can be controlled simply by means of a power supply and a switch, or via a micro controller. The kit comes with one (S/E) or two (Balanced) Darwin relay board(s), a 6-position rotary switch to control inputs, and a 3 position rotary switch to control outputs. No audio signals go through the switches.
A 5V supply is required (not in kit). Each relay board requires a maximum of 60mA.
maximus said:
Sweet! This is what I'm looking at:
Darwin is a is a relay switched 6 source 2 output source selector with integrated optional loop. It can be controlled simply by means of a power supply and a switch, or via a micro controller. The kit comes with one (S/E) or two (Balanced) Darwin relay board(s), a 6-position rotary switch to control inputs, and a 3 position rotary switch to control outputs. No audio signals go through the switches.
A 5V supply is required (not in kit). Each relay board requires a maximum of 60mA.
udailey said:
I scavenged a ton of components from an old printer of ours that died so I have a ton of those little keypad momentary switches. I just need to cobble together an enclosure and some button keys to make a remote. Maybe a cocobolo housing w/ some black anodized or ebony buttons.
heh heh! I was thinking that too!
In fact, I was thinking of a very retro/brass feel to the whole appearance. As there is no volume balance indicator, wouldn't it be possible to tap off the control variance to some little driver circuit, then driving a meter?
Oh, I would use an old analogue meter, of course!
-Kent
In fact, I was thinking of a very retro/brass feel to the whole appearance. As there is no volume balance indicator, wouldn't it be possible to tap off the control variance to some little driver circuit, then driving a meter?
Oh, I would use an old analogue meter, of course!
-Kent
Lightspeed Drawing
Lots of wiring questions so hope this helps a little.
You dont need a board for the basic lightspeed. It just makes it bigger and gets in the way. If you really want a board use what George uses and get some perfboard.
BOM
4x100ohm resistors
4 LDRS
2 1k trimpots. You could use just one. 2 is easier.
1 100k dual log pot. Any pot. Junk is fine.
5v/0VDC power supply of about 100ma or more.
Uriah
Lots of wiring questions so hope this helps a little.
You dont need a board for the basic lightspeed. It just makes it bigger and gets in the way. If you really want a board use what George uses and get some perfboard.
BOM
4x100ohm resistors
4 LDRS
2 1k trimpots. You could use just one. 2 is easier.
1 100k dual log pot. Any pot. Junk is fine.
5v/0VDC power supply of about 100ma or more.
Uriah
Attachments
Hi guys,
Got a question here regarding mounting the LDR.....
Which one the best way to attach the LDR....
1 - Is it solder the LDR input lead section directly to input of the RCA and use a shielded wire between the input at the amp pcb and output of the LDR.....or
2 - Solder the LDR output lead section to the amp pcb and run a shielded wire between input of the RCA and input of the LDR.....
Which one is the best........
Suggestion and comments is much appreciated here....Thanks
Got a question here regarding mounting the LDR.....
Which one the best way to attach the LDR....
1 - Is it solder the LDR input lead section directly to input of the RCA and use a shielded wire between the input at the amp pcb and output of the LDR.....or
2 - Solder the LDR output lead section to the amp pcb and run a shielded wire between input of the RCA and input of the LDR.....
Which one is the best........
Suggestion and comments is much appreciated here....Thanks
With a difference of 5 inches I bet it doesnt matter, but I like that you are trying it inside the case. I think this is best as it not only doesnt add extra connections it actually ends up eliminating some connections. NICE
I think I would put the resistor side directly on the board.
Be very careful soldering the LED side. Quick and precise. You dont want to burn anything and those leads are kind of on the fragile side and I bet they conduct heat really fast to the LED. The leads on the resistors are long. Leave yourself some decent length on the resistor leads. What if you decide to change amps some day but want the LDRs back off of this amp? You will want some length on those resistor leads so you can easily remove them and reinstall on another board.
Uriah
I think I would put the resistor side directly on the board.
Be very careful soldering the LED side. Quick and precise. You dont want to burn anything and those leads are kind of on the fragile side and I bet they conduct heat really fast to the LED. The leads on the resistors are long. Leave yourself some decent length on the resistor leads. What if you decide to change amps some day but want the LDRs back off of this amp? You will want some length on those resistor leads so you can easily remove them and reinstall on another board.
Uriah
udailey said:With a difference of 5 inches I bet it doesnt matter, but I like that you are trying it inside the case. I think this is best as it not only doesnt add extra connections it actually ends up eliminating some connections. NICE
I think I would put the resistor side directly on the board.
Be very careful soldering the LED side. Quick and precise. You dont want to burn anything and those leads are kind of on the fragile side and I bet they conduct heat really fast to the LED. The leads on the resistors are long. Leave yourself some decent length on the resistor leads. What if you decide to change amps some day but want the LDRs back off of this amp? You will want some length on those resistor leads so you can easily remove them and reinstall on another board.
Uriah
Uriah won't it be too difficult since output from resistor side got 2 leads....how about taking the first choice, solder LDR input (one lead) to RCA and connect 2 output of the LDR using hookup wire to input on the board....I think that way would be much tidy...
Hope the LDR lead is bendable....
Thankfully the resistor leads are just like any other resistor lead. They are bendable. I think your idea is even an improvement on having it inside the box! Remember, one lead from resistor A goes to RCA center pin and the twisted leads from A and B go to the amp. The last lead goes to ground which could be signal ground at your amp or signal ground at your RCA but either way the amp signal ground and the RCA signal ground must be connected as well. So maybe your resistor lead goes to the amp and a wire goes from the amp to the RCA GND.
The LED leads are like a flat piece of foil. The will bend but not twist and they are very thin and not very wide.
Uriah
The LED leads are like a flat piece of foil. The will bend but not twist and they are very thin and not very wide.
Uriah