NE5532 Buffer

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Why?
1 - Anaview module has differential inputs and low input impedance.
2 - Anaview modules are located behind my speakers. Short speaker cables.
3 - When I built my preamp with PGA2320 volume control & output buffer it was just as easy to use DRV134 as it would have been to use a single ended output buffer and professional balanced interconnects are cheap.

I have used ALC0300 modules (200W into 8 ohms) and they are the best sounding amps I have owned. With no buffers.

I now have AMS0100 modules in BTL mode and they do not sound as good.
Lack of bass. I was hoping a buffer would improve things by raising the input impedance.

I was going to move the original ALC amps into my hobby room but currently they are reinstated in my lounge.

Mooly;
Yes, I thought of shorting one of the inputs to ground (making it single ended). Didn't know if the DRV134 would tolerate a short on one output. Looking at the data sheet this is the correct way of making it single ended output so an easy poke with a screwdriver test. Or messing with resistor values - I have the circuit reproduced on breadboard so easy to play around.
 
Left -12K5 & 1K4
Right 1K4 & 12K5.
So connecting both together for BTL I reckon 1K2.
Yes I'd have thought it would also.
DRV134 data sheet claims good for 250ft cables into 600 ohms but then says for best results drive a high impedance (9.1 in application notes).
TBH I was surprised to hear any difference between the amps. That.s why I thought I'd try a buffer.
My original ALC amps are not BTL therefore an unequal 12K5 & 1K4 input impedance.
 
Application - Differential (balanced input - balanced output) buffer for Anaview Amplifier.

If you just want to buffer your outputs and do not need any gain or gain reduction then you do not need any circuit components except the 5532 and a cap directly across the PS supply pins to it. The schematic is input to the non inverting input, and feedback directly from the output to the input. Since this is exactly unity gain, you simple use the dual-amplifier 5532 to implement one of these buffers on each of the (+) and (-) signal lines separately.

Used in this "follower" configuration, the 5532 is very good. You could add a 10k resistor from the inverting input to ground if the network leading up to it does not have any grounded connection.
 
Try the two buffers separately. Balanced inputs and outputs are fine but You should still get sound if You connect one of the outputs to ground.

Sorry, You should not short the output of any of the buffers of course. What I meant was that You could connect one of the inputs to following stage to ground.

My guess is that it is a wiring mistake.
 
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I thought I ought to update this post.
I built input buffers on stripboard - 1 dual op-amp per channel, non-inverting, differential buffer.
I built one channel first - checked for shorts + to -. Didn't check for shorts supply to ground. Blew onboard supply fuse. Luckily, no damage apart from SMD fuse. Sorted short, all worked & sound good. De-cased the circuit so I could copy for second channel. Found supply wires had been burning - probably melted pvc when soldering. Cleaned off the soot, rebuilt first buffer and built the second. Added sockets for connections - M/F for in/out so I have the possibility of easily comparing with/without buffer. With both channels running the amps sound great. One day I'd like to do a frequency test to compare with /without buffer to prove I'm not imagining the difference.
 
I need a unity buffer for Anaview ams0100 as well. Nice to know its working well for you.

What is the purpose of the 100pf cap across the 100k as suggested in the anaview datasheet. Not really important?

Anyway my main question is regarding psu bypass caps. Did you use any on your buffer?
Lots of suggestion on NE5532 requiring supply bypass caps, including the datasheet.

Not sure if the anaview aux psu doesn't need bypass caps any less than others, but not very likely.
 
Thanks Mooly, I intend to keep the 100pF.


Russc, thanks for sharing.

Ti datasheet for NE5532 recommends 0.1uF low ESR ceramic +V to Gnd and -V to Gnd.
10uF seems good too as it is often used in this.

Maybe it is overkill to add the 0.1uF cap across the power supply pins, but don't think it required to be removed once in place.
 
think of the decoupling as the sole charge to power the chip for a few microseconds.

The two HF decoupling capacitors are connected together.
The outers are connected to the power pins.
This +power pin > cap > cap > -power pin route must be very short to minimise inductance.
The junction between the two caps is the Power Ground.
All output current from the chip must return to this Power Ground and into the capacitor which was the current source.
The above considers the capacitor as the source of current and that current MUST RETURN to the capacitor.
One capacitor (of the pair) sources the +ve half-wave output current. The other capacitor source the -ve half-wave output current.

That HF decoupling handles the ultra short duration current transients.

Repeat the process for the MF decoupling using higher capacitance and allowing slightly longer circuit routes. The junction between the MF decoupling capacitors needs to be connected to the junction between the HF decoupling capacitors.
The amplifier now has a low impedance "point" for the HF transients and a low impedance "point" for the MF transients.
All the chip output current has to return to this low impedance "point".
So we have two HF capacitors and two MF capacitors and the output return lead all meeting at this point.

There are two more connections. The amplifier output Zobel only operates at high frequencies and needs to connect to this low impedance point.
Finally we have the PSU Zero Volts feed to make up the seventh connection.

I think of a power amplifier on the same lines. The amp/opamp outputs a current and that current MUST RETURN to it's Source.
 
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I'm quite surprised that this thread has garnered 77 posts for a NE5532 op-amp based buffer that in the end will only sound "fair" at best.
Simply amazing...:rofl:

Perhaps your pockets are deeper than mine then......
If you've nothing to add in a positive way then maybe you should refrain from passive aggressive posts.....
Other posters are genuinely trying to help... pay attention and you could learn something from them...
 
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Yes, the polypropylene capacitors can become unusably large. I find that the turning point comes at about 2.2uF---a polypropylene Panasonic ECW-FD2W225JB is about 17 x 11 mm and will just barely fit most applications. Above that value, you are left with three choices, really---electrolytic, non-polar electrolytic, or polyester. As Cyril Bateman pointed out in his epic paper on capacitor distortion (https://linearaudio.nl/sites/linearaudio.net/files/Bateman%20EW%2012%202002%20mar2003%201uF%20electrolytic%20or%20film.pdf) the bipolars (such as your Nichicon MUSE) are superior to polarized caps, but “the best electrolytic, the Bi-polar type, was clearly beaten by the good metallised PET”. I have found that a fairly new product from WIMA (a PET---- MKS2B051001N00JO00) is exceptional in its combination of fairly large capacitance (10uF), small size (7x11mm), low ESR/DF (~12 times lower than the MUSE), and low distortion (< 0.0002%, -114db). It is a bit on the pricey side, as they are $3.01 each, but I have found no other cap that comes close to its performance/size.

What about Nichicon VR P.E.T. (Polyethylene) that look like electrolytic cans? (What exactly is the construction? They are polar, look like electrolytic cans but are marked P.E.T.)

I have probably 50 of those caps on the video board of a defunct receiver that I recycled as a case for a project amplifier. I assume they are used in the video section due to good high frequency characteristics?

I was thinking of using those as coupling caps in two preamps I am working. (One is NE5532 like the MBL6010 and the other is a diamond buffer like HDAM SA3. I wanted to compare the two side by side.)
 
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