Mine will exist simply to toggle between my *pair* of Active Monitors (JBL LSR308) and a single passive Auratone mixcube *driven by a crown or hafler power amp* i use the auratone to check for mono compatibility and balance the midrange.
I can solder reasonably well(I make mic and line cables, simple guitar repairs, and so on)
and am relatively new at reading schematics.
this will be my first DIY project proper
any help, schematics, tough love ;P etc is so very appreciated.
thank yall.
I can solder reasonably well(I make mic and line cables, simple guitar repairs, and so on)
and am relatively new at reading schematics.
this will be my first DIY project proper
any help, schematics, tough love ;P etc is so very appreciated.
thank yall.
This should be simple enough. The source audio goes to a board with a relay or switch.
The switch selects whether the signal goes to the mono amp or to the active monitors.
You'll need level controls on the amps, otherwise on the new board, to adjust the relative loudness.
You should be able to buy a box already made up. This might work, used backwards.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/491259...9c6241e8eedd&gclid=CPHFq5uJ_9ACFQ86gQod5vMBHw
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EDIT: Poster before me was faster...
Please outline how you are connecting things now.
If a mono downmix is not required, it could be a simple matter of flipping one DPDT switch to reroute one channel to the output for the Mixcube's amp. Said switch would go in a metal case with XLR ins and outs (see existing equipment for gender required), wired up with twisted pair inside, maintaining polarity. (XLR pin 1 would connect to case at jack.)
This would be a mere switchbox, not even a full monitor controller.
Please outline how you are connecting things now.
If a mono downmix is not required, it could be a simple matter of flipping one DPDT switch to reroute one channel to the output for the Mixcube's amp. Said switch would go in a metal case with XLR ins and outs (see existing equipment for gender required), wired up with twisted pair inside, maintaining polarity. (XLR pin 1 would connect to case at jack.)
This would be a mere switchbox, not even a full monitor controller.
http://www.proharmonic.com/articles/AT78_OTB.pdf
https://hannesmottl.wordpress.com/tag/output-switch/
I've read the RK27 pots need to be soldered with decent skill, as they have conductive plastic tracks, also this is a shunt mode volume control, so if the wiper of the pot goes open (ie catastrophic failure) full volume will be output. The wiper has 5 or six little fingers though, so it's unlikely. Just wanted you to know. Has anyone heard of this happening? A shunt mode make before break switched attenuator might be useful to you to have a consistent monitor volume setting, instead of the pot...Figure out the knob situation ahead of time, the RK27 are 6mm shafts which you'll likely have to cut off a bit, 1/4" knobs will be loose on 6mm.
https://hannesmottl.wordpress.com/tag/output-switch/
I've read the RK27 pots need to be soldered with decent skill, as they have conductive plastic tracks, also this is a shunt mode volume control, so if the wiper of the pot goes open (ie catastrophic failure) full volume will be output. The wiper has 5 or six little fingers though, so it's unlikely. Just wanted you to know. Has anyone heard of this happening? A shunt mode make before break switched attenuator might be useful to you to have a consistent monitor volume setting, instead of the pot...Figure out the knob situation ahead of time, the RK27 are 6mm shafts which you'll likely have to cut off a bit, 1/4" knobs will be loose on 6mm.
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