I used some kit (not Arduino based and not Tortuga audio, or same type). That one has 2 LDRs in series to signal and metal film Vishay-Dales set to GND. Changes are done via mechanical 23 pos switch witch is enabling solid-state relays. The relays are corresponds to the needed Vishay. The problem also was related to that attenuator dual PCB vertical installation. It is too big to be installed horizontally in my enclosure. So, it picked up some noise easily. Lets see how Khozmo will work...
This is the answer I received:
Dear friend,
Thanks for your message!
The resistors is 1/4W carbon resister of AMRS(from Japan).
Have a nice day!
Best regards.
Nina Wu.
h.salience@gmail.com
I suppose he's referring to these from Amtrans, color though don't much from the ones in Audiophonics image. Well it's a brand name but carbon (some like it though) so one must take that in account.
Speaking of resistors, I was about to make the order for 5K output resistance but I remembered that the preferred pot is 25K and not 20K. So should I go for 6.25K constant resistance Nick now that I can or better performance was measured with 5K ?
Not much difference but input resistance also rises from 8.9K to 11.1K.
I know in the end it will come down to how it will intergrade with the rest of the system but what I'm shooting for this time is better dynamics. Not that DCG3 lacks in this department but it was the only parameter that the RME DAC did better as preamp. TBH the word that came to my mind was not dynamics but 'tsamboukas' but how the hell I should translate that in english
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The RME DAC is coming from an affordability minded home/professional studio sound company. Centered around features and impact but not that refined on finer audiophile parameters. It would have been priced way higher and put in an expensive chassis if so. Its normal to have been judged primarily on measurements spec and studio production of popular genres club style sound. That is why attracting attention to the aggressive impact aspect. Especially on its HP output which is markedly darker and flatter than its main output even. IMHO of course that's how it came across to me. I find Benchmark DAC3 much more open, smoother, and even handed. Its much more expensive also of course. More to be found in pro studios than in semi pro.
If you want a system's sound to gravitate towards modern production popular studio sound in a system a. use overpowered monoblock main amps b. use digital sources with up to date Texas op amps. c. use 2SK170s for DCG3's J1 J2. More yfs will provide more feedback and the now flat THD vs freq profile is going to lower in the mid bass but also rise earlier in HF due to more ciss capacitance. Sounds more impactful for EDM, metal, hip-hop or trap, where with uPA sounds more gently open for acoustic genres.
If you want a system's sound to gravitate towards modern production popular studio sound in a system a. use overpowered monoblock main amps b. use digital sources with up to date Texas op amps. c. use 2SK170s for DCG3's J1 J2. More yfs will provide more feedback and the now flat THD vs freq profile is going to lower in the mid bass but also rise earlier in HF due to more ciss capacitance. Sounds more impactful for EDM, metal, hip-hop or trap, where with uPA sounds more gently open for acoustic genres.
Its only a matter of some less bandwidth than in post#20 scope pics if with >5k pot Zo. Still plenty. As the rise time lessens at well higher frequencies than the audio band, the leading edge of transients appears subjectively tamer in the audio band. You can fine tune according to your preference.
My opinion is that although new generation DAC is used, it's still gives a touch of that opa-sound which I'm not fan of. That being said, my new amp make this shortcoming less obvious. It's quite enjoyable, not tiring at all but not my cup of coffee
I don't want it and neither DCG3 does sound 'balsie' but I'm fan of dynamic sound and that could be improved if I bring my attenuator to DCG3's recommended specs. So is it better to have constant 6.25K or 5K output resistance for attenuator ?
I don't expect big changes and there are other things to play with: I have yet to test BC327s, LSK JFet, etc. The new amp push them back but now tweaking time has come.
I don't want it and neither DCG3 does sound 'balsie' but I'm fan of dynamic sound and that could be improved if I bring my attenuator to DCG3's recommended specs. So is it better to have constant 6.25K or 5K output resistance for attenuator ?
I don't expect big changes and there are other things to play with: I have yet to test BC327s, LSK JFet, etc. The new amp push them back but now tweaking time has come.
No, for DCG3 I have Panasonic FC. In other circuits I've tried them for local decoupling they open up the soundstage with lots of details. Usually I use them in digital stuff, let's say for special purposes.
You are looking for system synergy details. You have to experience pot Zo differentiation in situ for yourself. My recommendation is try the other options as well. 327s and 2SK170s with series or shunt PSUs. L-Adapter stacked positives are yet another option. A powerful little PSU. It may give the sense you are after with its high Amperage series pass transistor and hi-cap reservoirs.
I've already tried DCSTB, BIB and UBIB, each with its own sound character. My transformers and not CT so L-Adapter could also be tried although I'm expecting they won't deviate much from DCSTB.
As for pot Zo one option is to buy one or two cheap chinese DACT-clone pots and experiment with different Zo. The biggest problem upgrading my relay-based is finding better spected resistors (i.e. the right values). If I have hard time finding suitable values I'm gonna try Muses solution, it's output resistance is between 1K5 and 6K5.
Thanks Theodosis, I have another DCG3 for the making indented for balanced and A/B part testing so I could try this along with other things .
For flexibility in grounding schemes. A gap can be bridged when a lane can only be cut so better have a gap I thought. Thus I added that feature. Don't cut a classic board except there's a ground loop in a certain system and you need to try alternatives. Which is not that likely since buzz free classic board builds playing in various systems are so many here.
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Hi Savvas,
Let me suggest another way to address your attenuators question.
Most of us here are serious listeners and do most of our listening in a certain db range. With my dcg3 my normal level is -27db pot attenuation, going down to about -31 and louder to about -19 db. In my case -27db is with 20k and .909k resistors for a pot value of 20.9k. Measure your present pot at your most listened position, then use resistor combinations to achieve that and choose what sounds best. Better still build your own like I do with your favorite resistors.
Nash
That's nice solution especially if you are on a budget but you don't want to cut corners.
The problem is that remote is a must for me and this is very costly for switching resistor type of attenuators. Relay-based ones are most cost-effective solution with small number of resistors but with weird values (so those exotic type of resistors can't be used)
Aiming at Dale PTF or something similar otherwise compromise has to be made or simply finish the psu for Muse.
I want to settle with the attenuator thing and then start other tweaks.