Should be good. 30va x2 is enough, more is for lower temperature and stability
Almost finished the build. Cannot comment much on the headphones end yet, I should get my HD 58x jubilee's in June so will have to wait
I did test basic headphones and it works fine. Anyways, the line out to ZM babelfish and pair of markaudio alpair custom speakers sound fantastic. Feels more clarity and tighter bass. Thanks Salas !
Attaching few photos. I know - the wiring is terrible, it looked better on paper Also I had to make some hacks to attach the input switch and volume attenuator to that thick front panel. But hey, it's not about looks, it's about the sound in the end
I am still bit worried about the UBib heatsinks though, with closed lid after few hours I got ~60 degrees. I can barely touch the sink. Is that temperature still manageable?
I did test basic headphones and it works fine. Anyways, the line out to ZM babelfish and pair of markaudio alpair custom speakers sound fantastic. Feels more clarity and tighter bass. Thanks Salas !Attaching few photos. I know - the wiring is terrible, it looked better on paper
Also I had to make some hacks to attach the input switch and volume attenuator to that thick front panel. But hey, it's not about looks, it's about the sound in the end I am still bit worried about the UBib heatsinks though, with closed lid after few hours I got ~60 degrees. I can barely touch the sink. Is that temperature still manageable?
Attachments
I have another question regarding the Toroidy transformers. What wires need to be commoned on the output? The 2 outputs are 2 red wires and 2 black wires - how do I know which of the red and black wires I common? 1 each of the red and black pairs has a bit of sticky tape on them (as does 1 of the blue input wires). Grateful if someone who has used Toriody transformers can give me a pointer. Thanks.
Connect the primary to mains and use a voltmeter to check you've got 18V ac on each of the secondaries. Power off, hook two secondary wires together to give a centre tap, I'd guess one red, one black. Power up & verify 18V from centre tap to either end. Now check voltage from one end to the other - if the secondaries are in phase you'll have 36V, if the voltage is nowhere near that then swap the wires on one secondary only so the opposite colour is tied to form the centre tap. Recheck voltages to confirm 18V from centre to either end & 36V end to end. Done.
Or wait for a reply from someone who's used these transformers already ��
Or wait for a reply from someone who's used these transformers already ��
So the DCSTB I've bought has the wrong value resistors in locations R1 and R2, 1 ohm resistors are fitted rather than 33.2 ohm Dales (also had some of the transistors in the wrong places but thankfully has never been powered up).
I have some CFR25 Carbon Film 33Ω ±5% 0.33W -1200 → 0ppm/°C, are these suitable to be used instead of the Dales for R1 and R2?
I have some CFR25 Carbon Film 33Ω ±5% 0.33W -1200 → 0ppm/°C, are these suitable to be used instead of the Dales for R1 and R2?
I have a Soekris 1121 playing through the DCG3. All the power supplies are using UBiB v1.3, 7 in total. You won’t be disappointed.
Uninspiring ppm spec but since that is a constant current position that will bring them to more or less constant working temp you may use them.
With all the trafos I used from them the output wires were always coming out of the trafo in the same “winding order”, so with red1, red2, blue1, blue2 coming out the inner wires red2, blue1 should be the “center tap”. But measure as stated above to be absolutely sure.