Have to check again the beginning of the thread to see how the selector has to be powered. As for now, each transfo is 2x18V, one of 18V (top transfo) is powering both the DCSTB and the selector.
Chassis points have been drilled, and the continuity has been checked with a multimeter. Looks like all the 'chassis' points are connected together.
Novice here too, mostly for the box part
No, don't do that long back reading. In your config there is a 9V difference between selector's local PSU zero and DCG3's zero. It burned a local PSU diode when you tried to connect them zeroes you said.
Read the input selector's little pdf guide. Make it raw DC input. Basically remove its local PSU rectification diodes and the secondary AC line wire tap that now feeds it.
Tap from one DCSTB positive raw DC reservoir capacitor +V 0V pins instead and feed the DC in pads of the selector board.
That way they will have same zero level and the hum will probably stop as well. Now its very possible there's hum because the relay coils see a non related zero to the signal they pass. There's possibly hum loop area between them.
@ Salas,
Reading your last comment and now thinking again about it: the selector was supposed to be powered from one of the DCSTB (as your comment) and not from the AC/transformer as it is now. Maybe looked simple when boxing the amplifier but not as planned. Thanks again for your advice and fresh reminder.
Since I plan/have to remove the selector diodes I might also change the power-unscreened-wires to screen ones (the selector being very close to the input power connector).
Reading your last comment and now thinking again about it: the selector was supposed to be powered from one of the DCSTB (as your comment) and not from the AC/transformer as it is now. Maybe looked simple when boxing the amplifier but not as planned. Thanks again for your advice and fresh reminder.
Since I plan/have to remove the selector diodes I might also change the power-unscreened-wires to screen ones (the selector being very close to the input power connector).
Very well , in the workshop first thing to decide was which power amp worked best with the DCG3.... F4 or MAYA 200 after several swap overs the MAYA just was more detailed with more clarity. Next step was interesting, the CD stayed the same throughout (Cyrus CD8SE with PSXR power supply) and I alternated between Stereo Coffe passive pre with M-scaler & Quetest or M-scaler- Quetest -DCG3 and finally DCG3 straight from analogue out on the Cyrus. Almost forgot I also tried without the M-Scaler, so Cyrus - Quetest - DCG3.
After much swapping over using many different genres of music I was a little taken aback to find out that Cyrus straight to DCG3 was my prefered standard. It seemed to me that this option had a remakable amount of cohesion whilst still retaining all the clarity and definintion/transients that is usually added by the presence of an upscaler and DAC.
I would like to hear from any other builders if they have found a DAC that goes well with the DCG3 or if people tend to prefer it on its own?
After much swapping over using many different genres of music I was a little taken aback to find out that Cyrus straight to DCG3 was my prefered standard. It seemed to me that this option had a remakable amount of cohesion whilst still retaining all the clarity and definintion/transients that is usually added by the presence of an upscaler and DAC.
I would like to hear from any other builders if they have found a DAC that goes well with the DCG3 or if people tend to prefer it on its own?
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Hang in there r_jik45 you will love it once up and running.
Looks like a very nice piece of audio. Almost there
Plan to attach it to another diy amplifier. More later when all completed.
About Cyrus, reminds me of the old Mission model (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2-R_1ADPsd0/UG4F1R4BRcI/AAAAAAAAEt8/ZJRV4TB6WRQ/s1600/in%2Bpieces%2B1.jpg).
Also: nice of Salas to be always around for help and advices
I prefer my Benchmark dac3 through my dcg3,and i have made several listening tests! actually dcg3 is driving bryston 4b cubed very well!
Not necessarily removed in all cases but since you got a D3 already destroyed better cut them out.
He probably meant preferring DAC3 through DCG3 although that Benchmark DAC has been designed to can fully drive a power amp straight, and he had tried both ways. At least as I understood.
Its own brand mating amp is AHB2 by the way. A particularly insensitive XLR input model to enhance SNR. Both are top technical performers. SINAD metric champions so to say.
Its own brand mating amp is AHB2 by the way. A particularly insensitive XLR input model to enhance SNR. Both are top technical performers. SINAD metric champions so to say.
No more noise! And good musical sound!
Cut the ACin diodes and went the DCin way from the nearest DCSTB. Also connected again the DCSTB power input GND to the chassis.
Now waiting for the headphone connector to 'close the box' and for the last parts to complete the amplifier.
Thanks again Salas for sharing your circuits, for your help and advices and thanks again Tea-Bag for mastering the GBs. It makes all a lot simpler for the end DIY builder, even if builder's errors do happen sometimes.
66deg, you are likely enjoying a great sound and South of France too.
Cut the ACin diodes and went the DCin way from the nearest DCSTB. Also connected again the DCSTB power input GND to the chassis.
Now waiting for the headphone connector to 'close the box' and for the last parts to complete the amplifier.
Thanks again Salas for sharing your circuits, for your help and advices and thanks again Tea-Bag for mastering the GBs. It makes all a lot simpler for the end DIY builder, even if builder's errors do happen sometimes.
66deg, you are likely enjoying a great sound and South of France too.
Congratulations. You are welcome, keep us posted. Although the DCSTB output was the easiest point to tap DC power without disassembly in your case, I generally recommend to tap from the Raw DC side under a DCSTB board. From one positive voltage section 2200uF capacitor's pins. That's still easy when planned before fixing all that stuff to the chassis and having them wired together.
