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Old 24th September 2018, 08:35 AM   #1
saf is offline saf  Portugal
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Porto
Default Old dog - new shed

Hiall !

Now for something completly NEW, or maybe not so, but nevertheless exciting!

I concluded a new build, or should i say a old new build. I had my LifeForce55 in the closet for some years now, and i decided that it did not deserve this.
So out it came, and i designed a brand new casing for it.
I thank Hugh for a new PSU pcb, i had the original completly destroyed due to miss-design issues on the old chassis. The casing came in yesterday and the will was such, that i built it again yesterday from scratch !!!

So....remember de Maya ? Here is its Little "older" brother :

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I honestly prefer the Maya look. I opted for a black version this time, first to differenciate it from the Maya, but also to give it a try. The black is nice, but very very susceptible to scratches and dust. It never looks pristine, like the anodized aluminium. But i am happy.

It is still missing the handles, i am working on them. Also did not put the front LED in. Hugh, can you help here ? Where should i connect the LED for the LF55, and what resistor values ? Sorry...very lazy I ah thinking of a RED color red.

What do you think ?
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Old 24th September 2018, 10:23 AM   #2
AKSA is offline AKSA  Australia
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia

I think that there is a possibility that the Maya is indeed very sensitive to input signal, and it might show up as crackles and plops when other domestic appliances switch on an off. Try this: Put in a 3.3nF 100V filmcap across the output binding posts. It might alter inputs through the speaker leads, which are often an issue in sensitive amps.

Ah, how I remember the Lifeforce! That was a blast from the past!

An LED: run a 15k from the positive rail to the anode of a green/blue/red led (choose what you like), and the katod of the led, the short lead, should connect to ground.

Alternative, use TWO 15k resistors, one from positive rail (after the fuse) and one from negative rail, and then pos side resistor to anode of LED and the other negative resistor to the katod of the LED.

Then when your power is up and running for the module, the LED will be on. Blue has 2.6V across it, Green 2V, and Red 1.6V. They are very useful as voltage references.


Aspen Amplifiers P/L (Australia)
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