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My Maya 200

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Hi Sene,

This is not good because convection air flow is always vertical. It should be OK for low point use but when pushed, particularly with 4R speaker, it would get very hot unless the amp is upended on one side so the flow is vertical through the fins.
Can this be arranged without losing the good look of your amp? A vertical rather than horizontal box? It would be a very low footprint, good in a crowded room..... I have seen this on high end amps (a Greek tube hybrid amp, in fact) and it looked pretty good.

Ciao,

Hugh
 
Sene,

I can attend to this Hugh is pointing out. I do not know your speakers or clima , but...

I can testify my own application, where i have 2 Mayas driving 2 different speakers in same room.

Both Mayas have identical construction and identical vertical fin heatsinks.
Maya 1 is on top of the rack, nothing on top of it and never gets more than warmish.
Maya 2 is on middle shelve of the rack, with about 5cm of space above it. This amp gets HOT ! Very different. Plus it is driving an easier speaker (although they both are 4 ohms rated).

So be cautious when assembling. Take your time and get the correct heatsinks.
Cheers
 
Hugh
So i contacted heat sink usa and they are now telling me that all their heat sinks are horizontal flow and would be willing to refund me but i will have to pay for shipment.This would not be economically viable.I have two options either to source the vertical heat sinks all over again or to modify the horizontal ones i now have.I was thinking of cutting the heat sinks into equal parts and rejoin them so as to create and realign the pieces where the fins are now vertical.I am wondering if this process would alter the thermal dissipation performance.Thanks Saf for your input.
 
Hugh
So i contacted heat sink usa and they are now telling me that all their heat sinks are horizontal flow and would be willing to refund me but i will have to pay for shipment.This would not be economically viable.I have two options either to source the vertical heat sinks all over again or to modify the horizontal ones i now have.I was thinking of cutting the heat sinks into equal parts and rejoin them so as to create and realign the pieces where the fins are now vertical.I am wondering if this process would alter the thermal dissipation performance.Thanks Saf for your input.

Sene,
I use heat sinks from HeatsinkUSA without issue.
Here are a two heatsinks that you can use that will work just fine for you.
1. 12.000" Wide Extruded Aluminum Heatsink - HeatsinkUSA
2.10.080" - HeatsinkUSA

The 10-080 heat sink has 2 1/2 inch fins, while the 12-000 one has shorter fins. If you are using a 2U size case then order 3" option. If you have taller case then best to go with 4" option. If you need an inbetween height then specify that height and it only costs $5 to get the heatsinks cut.
I have used both of the specified heatsinks and either one will work fine for you.

Steve
 
Hi Sene,

Realising that shipping is expensive, you are best to work with your existing heatsinks. It might be possible to cut the present heatsink into two parts, so you can set the fins vertically for convection air cooling. I believe you suggested this in fact. Accordingly, I would suggest 200mm long along the fins, and maybe 100mm WIDE each. Each heatsink is then connected to the two large output devices, but you must before set up some sort of rigid link between the two parts so they sit as one heatsink in the enclosure.

The other option is as suggestion earlier, a vertical amp, say 300mm tall, but only 120mm deep, setting the longest side of the heatsink and the module vertical. That would work and might look quite spectacular.

The heatsinks I use are cast, not extruded. Consequently this manufacturing technique permits long heatsinks with vertical fins, and because they are local to me, and made by my close friend Julian at Conrad Heatsinks, I like to use his products because they are unique not just to Australia, but to the world. Gives my amps a unique appearance, nice for the brand.

Steve, thanks for your helpful suggestions!

Cheers,

Hugh
 
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Aha, Felipe, it's the way they extrude it...... there are limitations on the width of the die. When you see an Al extruder it is amazing, the pressures, at little above room temperature, are huge, and the power of the hydraulic press through the die is up there are 50Kw so the ground shakes and there is a lot of very stress metal, and heat; most dies are water cooled.

This is the reason cast Al are highly suited to long heatsinks, 350mm is too long for a 50mm thick die. Casting is expensive, because it requires machining and powder coating; actually the die is expensive too but quick; the fact is the machining is incredibly expensive because it's slow and laborious.

Hugh
 
Hello Sene and all,
Ordering heatsinks from Heatsink USA for the first time can be tricky, as I found out and also received heatsinks with horizontal fins. The trick is to look carefully at the diagrams and then it is fairly easy. I think you just have to consider the horizontal finned heatsink as a learning experience not to be repeated again.

The idea of vertical mounting is a poor idea as the heat from the lower device will rise thru the fin space and add to the heat from the upper device.
Cutting the heatsink in half and rotating each half 90 degrees is doable but requires a lot of real precise measuring and drilling for everything to fit properly.

It's your choice, but best in the long run to get a proper heatsink. Don't know why you didn't get the modules with attached heatsinks, as that the best choice, but either of the ones I suggested will work quite well.
 
I do not know your chassis layout or height space...
But if there is room enough, you could do something unorthodox and quite efective:
Mount the heatsinks with fins pointing upwards, and modules pointing downwards.
This will be harder to mount/dismount the wires, but when its done ...its done.
I believe the heat will dissipate very efficiently this way.
 
I think you just have to consider the horizontal finned heatsink as a learning experience not to be repeated again.

Wise advice, Steven ... we can all make mistakes like this. ;)

Don't know why you didn't get the modules with attached heatsinks, as that the best choice

Aaah, the push of every DIYer (well, at least first-time DIYer) to "save money" - which sometimes doesn't work out that way! :D

Andy
 
Hugh,Steven,Andy
Thank you all for your inputs.I went ahead and had the heat sinks cut like i had mention before and realign the pieces by joining them together in a manner where the fins are now vertical.That part of the project is now completed and i am very pleased with the outcome.I was not able to source the preferred EI transformers so i am waiting the arrival of the recommended toroidal Anteks any day now...
 
Hugh,Steven,Andy
Thank you all for your inputs.I went ahead and had the heat sinks cut like i had mention before and realign the pieces by joining them together in a manner where the fins are now vertical.That part of the project is now completed and i am very pleased with the outcome.I was not able to source the preferred EI transformers so i am waiting the arrival of the recommended toroidal Anteks any day now...

Oh good that you've had success with this. You will be pleased that you've done this and now have the fins vertically aligned.
 
Wise advice, Steven ... we can all make mistakes like this. ;)

It was quite awhile ago that I did this and I was totally befuddled when the heatsinks arrived with the horizontal orientation. But I quickly figured out my mistake and reordered correctly. The horizontals eventually went into the recycle bin.
I might add that it's much easier to order from Julian at Conrad.
 
Steve,

But for o/seas the weight and bulk of the Conrad heatsinks doubles the shipping costs, a major issue for kit builders.

Hugh

International shipping is expensive. It's part of the cost and there's no way around it.
Some vendors have shipping estimators which is helpful when ordering so that there's less of a surprise when shipping cost exceeds goods cost.
 
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