Well I am at a crossroads with a ZD5 build. I do not feel I can make cabinets quite as nice as the dayton prebuilts and at the same time I would love to build a set of ZD5's.
Zaph is 100% direct in saying that I cannot have a cabinet with a width greater than 7" and I respect what he says 100%. He designed it and I want to be as true to the original as possible and follow his instructions. Maybe I have answered my own question here knowing his wishes, but if I went with a design that is an 8.5" front width... is it just going to make the project pointless? I am no expert but I can copy the design from his plans. Just wish I could take a route a tad easier with a prebuilt cab.
Guess I need either a "heck no" or a "it is doable, here are the trade off's" speech. Now if it comes down to it, I will do my best and build the cabs to Zaphs specifications. Let me know what you guys think.
Zaph is 100% direct in saying that I cannot have a cabinet with a width greater than 7" and I respect what he says 100%. He designed it and I want to be as true to the original as possible and follow his instructions. Maybe I have answered my own question here knowing his wishes, but if I went with a design that is an 8.5" front width... is it just going to make the project pointless? I am no expert but I can copy the design from his plans. Just wish I could take a route a tad easier with a prebuilt cab.
Guess I need either a "heck no" or a "it is doable, here are the trade off's" speech. Now if it comes down to it, I will do my best and build the cabs to Zaphs specifications. Let me know what you guys think.
I will, but if the dayton cabs screw things up to bad.. Well that is the question. If they will or will not screw up the design to the point that.... it would be pointless.
It depends on what level of perfection your budget and time wants to take. Me personally, I would use the pre-builts, because woodworking is well, a lot of work.
It will primarily affect the BSC in a small way, as a wider baffle will roll off the highs at a lower frequency.
Your ZD5's will be very nice, just not as perfect as zaphs. Honestly I don't think most non-golden ears would percieve the difference as "worse", just oh-so-lightly different.
Also remember, how nice they look subjectivly effects the sound, especially when the spouse is concered 😉
EDIT: just as long as the volume is within 5% and the ports can be kept the same
It will primarily affect the BSC in a small way, as a wider baffle will roll off the highs at a lower frequency.
Your ZD5's will be very nice, just not as perfect as zaphs. Honestly I don't think most non-golden ears would percieve the difference as "worse", just oh-so-lightly different.
Also remember, how nice they look subjectivly effects the sound, especially when the spouse is concered 😉
EDIT: just as long as the volume is within 5% and the ports can be kept the same
*LOL* Exactly, the spouse equation definitely plays a large factor. Maybe Zaph will chime in and tell me to go to he ll or that I will be ok, but not quite as well off *LOL* Thanks for the responses guys.
The curved Dayton cabs are very nice. I would like to buy a set in gloss black. The recommended sealed is .55 from Zaphs site. The Daytons are .50 so I am within spec. And of course the port in each will be dead on.
The curved Dayton cabs are very nice. I would like to buy a set in gloss black. The recommended sealed is .55 from Zaphs site. The Daytons are .50 so I am within spec. And of course the port in each will be dead on.
Have you considered having the cabinets done for you locally? Lumber stores will pre-cut the panels for you - all you have to do is put them all together. Not super cheap but still a fraction of the pre-builts. You didn't mention if you have the capability to do the driver cut-outs on your own; if you do, consider this option.
Guys, I actually am a decent woodworker with a lot of nice tools in my small shop. Building the enclosures out of MDF is no issue at all, it is just the finishing details that really stink to make them look production quality. I have a nice router with a perfect circle and can cut and countersink as I please. Just being lazy I guess 😀
A cabinetmaker who can veneer or paint for you also would make them really look nice if you wanted to go the build route.
Well, if you have the time and tools, go for the build route. Look up gloss painting tips on the forum and see if you want to make a small paint booth.
Gloss black is a lot of work
Gloss black is a lot of work
ruerose said:
Yes, that is an option as well. Building boxes is cake, it is the final fit and finish that difficult.
ruerose said:
Agreed, that is why I am trying to go the easy route with the prebuilt cabs 😀 But if they are just going to kill the design and make it pointless then I guess I will have to do all the hard work haha.
For some reason I had it in my head that Zaph asked for .55qf sealed... Checked again and he has it at .50 so that is a bonus 🙂
Just popping my head in here for one quick post.
If you really want to use pre-built cabs, I'd suggest the .75 cu ft MTM enclosure. At 8" wide, it's the narrowest cabinet with a volume suitable for a vented configuration. (tune it a little lower than I mention on the page) If you want the Zaph stamp of approval on a pre-fab enclosure, that's the only one I'd recommend. Put the port on the front below the woofer.
If you really want to use pre-built cabs, I'd suggest the .75 cu ft MTM enclosure. At 8" wide, it's the narrowest cabinet with a volume suitable for a vented configuration. (tune it a little lower than I mention on the page) If you want the Zaph stamp of approval on a pre-fab enclosure, that's the only one I'd recommend. Put the port on the front below the woofer.
Ah perfect. I did not even see this cab on the page at 8" width!
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=302-741
I assume naturally that is the one you speak of.
For tuning, how much lower would you recommend? I noticed that you tested the drive at 30hz... I think I read that the fs was 30hz so I am guessing I should not tune any lower?
Thanks for the heads up! That is what I was searching for "designer approval" I will build them exactly as you have described with the port on the front and align the mid and tweet per your enclosure specs. Again thanks for dropping in!
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=302-741
I assume naturally that is the one you speak of.
For tuning, how much lower would you recommend? I noticed that you tested the drive at 30hz... I think I read that the fs was 30hz so I am guessing I should not tune any lower?
Thanks for the heads up! That is what I was searching for "designer approval" I will build them exactly as you have described with the port on the front and align the mid and tweet per your enclosure specs. Again thanks for dropping in!
How about stacking two of the .25 cu ft cabinets on top of each other? Width would be 7.5" and final volume would be right around .53 cu ft.
Dan
Dan
Well two of them cost more than the MTM cab, would have to cut them .. Fill the holes for the second set of binding posts.... Overcome the seam between the two cosmetically... And then deal with a.. very tall 24" cab.... The MTM cab is already pushing the limits height wise for my personal taste at 20" but is workable with the Port on the front & making a small Plate that reads ZD5 🙂 Breaks up the overall panel which will make it better visually..
Useing the MTM cab, I made a quick and dirty image but it is correct to scale according to zaphs diagram.
I am a little curious as to why Zaph would like me to move the port to the front with this enclosure but I will respect his wishes as he knows best.
Useing the MTM cab, I made a quick and dirty image but it is correct to scale according to zaphs diagram.
I am a little curious as to why Zaph would like me to move the port to the front with this enclosure but I will respect his wishes as he knows best.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Scan Speak 15W8530K00 or 01
Hi Folks,
I have pair of 15W8530K01's and I'm hoping I can use them in Zaph's ZD5's. But he has specified the 15W8530K00. Hmmm.
Has anybody used the K01's in his design and if so what mods. are needed - xover???
😕
Hi Folks,
I have pair of 15W8530K01's and I'm hoping I can use them in Zaph's ZD5's. But he has specified the 15W8530K00. Hmmm.
Has anybody used the K01's in his design and if so what mods. are needed - xover???
😕
Has anyone tried the Meniscus Audio Cabinets?
They list one with .54 cubic foot volume and 7.5" x 21" x 9.5" which seems even closer to Zaph's preferred dimensions.
They list one with .54 cubic foot volume and 7.5" x 21" x 9.5" which seems even closer to Zaph's preferred dimensions.
I was thinking this over last night, And it would be cake to chamber the bottom section of this cab. Cut 33% of the volume and I would be at .5 total volume for a sealed system which was what I was originally planning as I will be adding in a pair of powered subs for the bottom end. I can use this .25qf of volume to load with sand or other heavy material. Or simply place the crossover inside.
I know some do not like the bottom end of music, but I find it to be as required as a good top end. If a system is put together correctly, bass will be preset only when a track was recorded with bass. When a track was recorded without bass, there should be no bass present.
Anyways Zaph gave an excellent recommendation to build the ZD5 useing this MTM cab. I hope that he gives the seal of approval by simply removing some of the cab volume & running it sealed.
By doing this, I can hold true to every aspect of his original published design except by adding 1/2" of surface area on each side of the drivers. I think I can live with that.
I know some do not like the bottom end of music, but I find it to be as required as a good top end. If a system is put together correctly, bass will be preset only when a track was recorded with bass. When a track was recorded without bass, there should be no bass present.
Anyways Zaph gave an excellent recommendation to build the ZD5 useing this MTM cab. I hope that he gives the seal of approval by simply removing some of the cab volume & running it sealed.
By doing this, I can hold true to every aspect of his original published design except by adding 1/2" of surface area on each side of the drivers. I think I can live with that.
garage1217 said:
Well, there's at least one other guy doing this. He had me build these boxes for him and specifically wanted them sealed to be used with a subwoofer.
Don't know if it was "zaph approved" though.
He specified the color, too, which I don't much care for.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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