Hi everyone I'm new to this site. I really enjoy and admire ready the questions and answers and comments on this site. The knowledge you guys have is amazing to me. I'm a carpenter and delivery driver so I have little or no knowledge of how hi fi works. Testament to that is I recently brought a Yaqin MS 110B KT88 INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER and it basically didn't work with the supplied mains cable. So I brought my own so I used it and the sound was better than what I've heard before but then the KT88 V3 tube started to glow brighter than all the others. I contacted Tubestien of eBay and he nicely sent over from China a new tube and mains cable. A tad nervous I ordered the Yaqin SD 33A cd player it arrived promptly beautifuly packed. I left it on to burn in for three-4 hour slots a day. The sound was amazing I have the amp and cd connected to Dali suite 2.8 speakers my lounge is 8m x 5m and the bass just blew me away deep deep bass. Anyway after the second day the cd player has started to skip with a tizzy sound, the display clock stops. It's happening more often now any ideas out there. Iv checked the big cog no webbing of teeth noticeable. Has anyone had the same problem. I'm all eyes guys. Thanks
Cosmicalien
Cosmicalien
Welcome to the forums 🙂 There is a very recent thread somewhere on Yaqin mains leads... here we go,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/256768-safety-alert-uk-yaqin-users.html
As to your CD player, well for a new product it doesn't sound good tbh. If the time counter stops or freezes then data is being lost on its way from disc to the system control. Now that loss could be in the optics/pickup/mechanism. I'm afraid I've no easy fix for you, such a fault requires looking at the signal coming off the disc using an oscilloscope and then based on that a decision as to whether the problem is "front end" or not can be made.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/256768-safety-alert-uk-yaqin-users.html
As to your CD player, well for a new product it doesn't sound good tbh. If the time counter stops or freezes then data is being lost on its way from disc to the system control. Now that loss could be in the optics/pickup/mechanism. I'm afraid I've no easy fix for you, such a fault requires looking at the signal coming off the disc using an oscilloscope and then based on that a decision as to whether the problem is "front end" or not can be made.
Thank-you Mooly that was quick man.The seller has said he will pay for repairs once I give him a quote. I wanted to send it back and have a replacement. But it costs a arm and a leg to send it back also if they find no fault I have to pay for shipping cost's and import duty. Suspicious as I am it wouldn't be to difficult for them to repair it and say there was no fault and the cost of shipping comes down to me. I was quoted £202 to ship back to China and probably the same for shipping back to me basically I could just buy another one lol. So what I'm going to do is have it repaired locally and have Mr Tubestien pay for the repairs he has agreed to this. EBay are monitoring all this on my behalf so they do have my back. For the one album I managed to listen to it did sound so clear and crisp and the bass wow let's just say I didn't need MK subwoofer anymore.
Thanks
Thanks
Sounds like you are going to get a satisfactory outcome to all this... keep us updated on how it goes 🙂 And good luck.
Thanks Mooly yes of course I will keep you guy's informed. Have you by any chance read my other thread about MS 110B KT88 integrated amp.
Thanks again Cosmicalien
Thanks again Cosmicalien
I approved your other thread so yes, I did quickly read it 🙂
Valve gear isn't really my thing tbh so I can't offer any definitive fixes for it. Thoughts though... a noise when you switch between ultra linear mode and "normal" is possibly down to the abrupt change in DC conditions as the screen bias is changed. A noise on switch off could be a number of things. Circuitry behaves unpredictably as voltage rails collapse. If the noise is at the instant you power off then it could be "radiated" interference caused by the switch arcing as it breaks the primary current. If so then a snubber across the switch contacts may help.
Valve gear isn't really my thing tbh so I can't offer any definitive fixes for it. Thoughts though... a noise when you switch between ultra linear mode and "normal" is possibly down to the abrupt change in DC conditions as the screen bias is changed. A noise on switch off could be a number of things. Circuitry behaves unpredictably as voltage rails collapse. If the noise is at the instant you power off then it could be "radiated" interference caused by the switch arcing as it breaks the primary current. If so then a snubber across the switch contacts may help.
Thank you Mooly. It's all very disappointing when one buys relatively expensive equipment for my income and circumstances and it doesn't even last a week. But hopefully everything will turn out ok.
Thanks Cosmicalien
Thanks Cosmicalien
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