I am building my first kit speaker - the Overnight Sensations. I may have a cheesy x/o board. I don't have any contacts on the board (it is literally wood) - all connections are soldered together off the board. So, there are some wires. I may have wired myself into a position.
Can I run wires from the negatives on the drivers straight back to the binding posts? As is, all the negative return lines come together just before the binding post. Or should they go straight back to the 10 ohm R2 (tweeter) and 6.8 uF C4 (woofer), and before the wires (from those positions) that run straight back to the binding post? Will this make a difference?
Thank you very much for your help.
Cheers,
Mark
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Can I run wires from the negatives on the drivers straight back to the binding posts? As is, all the negative return lines come together just before the binding post. Or should they go straight back to the 10 ohm R2 (tweeter) and 6.8 uF C4 (woofer), and before the wires (from those positions) that run straight back to the binding post? Will this make a difference?
Thank you very much for your help.
Cheers,
Mark
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The wire will present a little resistance (especially short ones as in small speaker). There is difference but not much. I believe you cannot hear the difference.
Thank you, Jay. I am using 16 gauge wire, and so I have 4 wires running together at the negative post, from 1) between L1 and R2 outputs, 2) C4 output, 3) woofer output, and 4) tweeter output.
I thought 16 gauge would reduce in-line inductance, but at this point, I've got a bunch of wire. These pieces are all 1 foot or less, but there are 8 pieces of wire.
I thought 16 gauge would reduce in-line inductance, but at this point, I've got a bunch of wire. These pieces are all 1 foot or less, but there are 8 pieces of wire.
The issue is actually not whether the wire is too inductive or too resistive. The issue is whether the design is a precision one or not, whether you change the design or not.
For example, when you run a wire from C4 to binding post instead of to woofer, you have put a resistor in series with the capacitor. Will this change the design? No, not at all. The extra resistance will change the roll-off slope a little theoretically but will not be at audible level.
Issue is with notch filter (LCR) if any, when they are designed with precision in mind (especially for complex crossover) where they are supposed to be attached right at the speaker connectors.
But nothing is too critical in the design (remember that your coil has DCR, your caps have tolerances)
For example, when you run a wire from C4 to binding post instead of to woofer, you have put a resistor in series with the capacitor. Will this change the design? No, not at all. The extra resistance will change the roll-off slope a little theoretically but will not be at audible level.
Issue is with notch filter (LCR) if any, when they are designed with precision in mind (especially for complex crossover) where they are supposed to be attached right at the speaker connectors.
But nothing is too critical in the design (remember that your coil has DCR, your caps have tolerances)
I could remove a foot of wire if I just solder the tweeter output to R2 output, and Woofer output to C4 output, so far as distance to R2 ad C4 output is concerned. I didn't solder there, because I was soldering too many connectors/gauge in one place at these places. That 1.1 mH coil is a big one, so I don't know if I can compete with it. Thanks, Jay, for your input. It seems resistance is down by using bigger wire as well.
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