Any suggestions? I'd like to router a rounded edge on the birch ply I'm using on my speaker project, fill, sand, and paint. Ideally I would create a smooth, rounded edge. Is there something better than just box-store wood fill, or is that what I should use?
If painting, don't forget at least a couple of sanded out coats a high solids primer compatible with your top coat material to avoid bleed-through of the fill material's penetration into grain of the plywood's face veneer.
For clear top coats (lacquer, etc), Famowood makes a great line of latex based wood fillers - I've found the natural, birch or maple colors to blend well with whichever plywood I'm using at the time.
For clear top coats (lacquer, etc), Famowood makes a great line of latex based wood fillers - I've found the natural, birch or maple colors to blend well with whichever plywood I'm using at the time.
For a pained finish I also reccomend Bondo. Also as Chris said a good primer. Be sure to allow adequate dry time before sanding the primer or you will see your layers again in the future.
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I have used this method mostly for covering mistakes (not cutting straight) that leave a void between panels, home made particle board...I used bondo once, but you have to be careful with that method, because if you use too much you have to sand a lot. It is a very good way to cover, but remember to use thin coats, it is better many thin coats, than a thick coat that needs a lot of sanding. Always use a dust mask.
Right on, I use old credit cards or similar to ensure that only thin coats are applied and the flimsier 'fake' ones work well for fine finishing with 'spot'/glazing putty, which I prefer for finish coatings Vs trying to get the much harder to sand 'Bondo' properly finished without damaging the much softer surrounding wood.
GM
GM
+ 1, another trick is to take that expired credit card (I save them for things like this) and make a V-notch or rounded notch equal to the edges of your enclosure, then, before the bondo dries up, run the edge you are working on with this template as to even everything out, it makes for a lot less sanding and finishing.
Thanks for the tip! Do you mean this product?
FAMOWOOD Original Wood Filler - FAMOWOOD - Products
How well does it take stain?
I got some recommendations from woodworking guys to use this stuff
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1VAG4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
So I have some on order and will try it out this weekend. I may also try the sawdust pva approach and see how it compares. I'll try Bondo as a last option, and I'm familiar with how messy and time consuming it is to work with.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1VAG4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
So I have some on order and will try it out this weekend. I may also try the sawdust pva approach and see how it compares. I'll try Bondo as a last option, and I'm familiar with how messy and time consuming it is to work with.
the shapes one can mold to a box, car, etc., is mostly limited by ones imagination and spreader size. GM
yup - comes put up in as small as 144gm plastic cups - buy the smallest size you can find, as it dries up quickly and can't really be reconstituted
I try to reserve for small pinholes, open veneer seams, etc - isn't always a dead perfect match when clear coated with higher gloss finish, but takes darker stains fairly well
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