wiring an on/off switch from a UK 230V inlet in the UK with neutral and live wires. The switch only has holes for one wire, can I safely assume its the live wire that the on/off switch uses and that it will work ok?
a switch must have an input and an output.
That means
It needs two holes for two wires.
If you want to switch both Live and Neutral, then you need 4 terminals.
Live input, Live output, Neutral input, Neutral output.
That means
must be wrong.
It needs two holes for two wires.
If you want to switch both Live and Neutral, then you need 4 terminals.
Live input, Live output, Neutral input, Neutral output.
sorry, I meant it only has two holes, one for input and one for output. Would it still work?
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It depends on what you want the switch to do.
If it's to isolate the equipment from the mains then you must use a double pole switch to cut both Live and Neutral and the gap between the open contacts must meet the minimum requirements for isolation. That is what is fitted to your wall socket switch. But pulling the plug is safer. That is what is not offered in your light switch. It's also why the lighting circuit does not have accessible sockets. Everything is hidden away from tampering fingers.
If you just want a convenient ON/OFF switch, then a single pole switch will break the circuit and current flow stops.
I don't bother with sourcing a big gap double pole switch. I just pull out the plug. That allows me to work safely on the equipment, like replacing a fuse.
That then allows me to just source a switch for ON/OFF. I like using low voltage switching to activate a mains relay. That mains relay does not need to meet isolation standards. I have the "pull out the plug" method for isolation.
If it's to isolate the equipment from the mains then you must use a double pole switch to cut both Live and Neutral and the gap between the open contacts must meet the minimum requirements for isolation. That is what is fitted to your wall socket switch. But pulling the plug is safer. That is what is not offered in your light switch. It's also why the lighting circuit does not have accessible sockets. Everything is hidden away from tampering fingers.
If you just want a convenient ON/OFF switch, then a single pole switch will break the circuit and current flow stops.
I don't bother with sourcing a big gap double pole switch. I just pull out the plug. That allows me to work safely on the equipment, like replacing a fuse.
That then allows me to just source a switch for ON/OFF. I like using low voltage switching to activate a mains relay. That mains relay does not need to meet isolation standards. I have the "pull out the plug" method for isolation.
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Its a single pole switch that came pre built as part of an enclosure along with IEC connector and volume control. I guess connecting the live wire to the two terminals on the switch would do the job, just like to make sure of these things.
A switch does not have an 'in' or an 'out'. A single pole switch has two terminals. They are equivalant. Which one is 'in' and which one is 'out' is a circuit issue, not a switch issue.
Is this your first PSU build?
Is this your first PSU build?
And the circuit must have a series fuse in the active line.
Power Supply Wiring Guidelines
Cheers / Chris
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