Due to the strict guidelines set in place by my significant other, the largest enclosure I can get away with is about 1.5tft^3.This works out to be about 42 liters. Quite a bit smaller than most subwoofer drivers are designed for. Since this is my first subwoofer project, I thought it would be best to go with a sealed design.
So my question is, at this size, which driver would you reccomend?
Currently I'm toying with NHT1259 (which seems like it may be a bit dated?) and the Peerless XXLS 830845 (which says it's best in a 62L box.) I just installed WinISD as suggested on other threads, but I haven't had much luck getting it to do anything yet (I cant find either driver in it's database either.)
Am I missing any drivers that would be suitable for this? Am I just dumb thinking I can get a good sounding sub out of something this small?
My main concern is musical fedility (another reason I'm going for sealed) but it will be used for movies as well (about 50/50, but I'm much more concerned with music than movies.)
Cost of the driver isn't THAT important, so if I can spend a few more and get a much better sub, please feel free to suggest.
So my question is, at this size, which driver would you reccomend?
Currently I'm toying with NHT1259 (which seems like it may be a bit dated?) and the Peerless XXLS 830845 (which says it's best in a 62L box.) I just installed WinISD as suggested on other threads, but I haven't had much luck getting it to do anything yet (I cant find either driver in it's database either.)
Am I missing any drivers that would be suitable for this? Am I just dumb thinking I can get a good sounding sub out of something this small?
My main concern is musical fedility (another reason I'm going for sealed) but it will be used for movies as well (about 50/50, but I'm much more concerned with music than movies.)
Cost of the driver isn't THAT important, so if I can spend a few more and get a much better sub, please feel free to suggest.
Think outside the box (no pun intended):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=222428#post222428
And don't be afraid to use the NHT. Classic drivers are just that for a reason.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=222428#post222428
And don't be afraid to use the NHT. Classic drivers are just that for a reason.
leadbelly: thanks for the reply. I'll also check out that Adire speaker.
Someone also mentions stuffing the box to help bring down the Q. I've read that this kind of tricks the speaker into thinking it's in a bigger box, but don't quite understand how.. Is there some resource on how/why to stuff a box?
Someone also mentions stuffing the box to help bring down the Q. I've read that this kind of tricks the speaker into thinking it's in a bigger box, but don't quite understand how.. Is there some resource on how/why to stuff a box?
Hello Shock,
You might consider the Parts Express 12" TitanicIII or the P.E. Dayton DVC 12". Both would work great in that size sealed enclosure, with the Titanic having a little more extension for extra $$$. Good luck -Mike
You might consider the Parts Express 12" TitanicIII or the P.E. Dayton DVC 12". Both would work great in that size sealed enclosure, with the Titanic having a little more extension for extra $$$. Good luck -Mike
Hi Shock,
seems like you're looking @ 12's in a 1.5ft^3 box. That's smaller than recommended, but if that's what you need take a look at these. You'll have to trade some low end extension - which may be ok if its a "music" sub. Check with Brian to be sure. I have 2 of these (both over 2ft^3). Definately a step above the staggering amount of choices of "normal" powered subs out there. Check out the "servo woofer" thread in this forum also.
My long search for a DIY sub ended here.
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/servo_product.htm
Cost is quite reasonable also!
Cheers,
AJ
seems like you're looking @ 12's in a 1.5ft^3 box. That's smaller than recommended, but if that's what you need take a look at these. You'll have to trade some low end extension - which may be ok if its a "music" sub. Check with Brian to be sure. I have 2 of these (both over 2ft^3). Definately a step above the staggering amount of choices of "normal" powered subs out there. Check out the "servo woofer" thread in this forum also.
My long search for a DIY sub ended here.
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/servo_product.htm
Cost is quite reasonable also!
Cheers,
AJ
I should have posted this as well - for reference
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_2/diy-14-rythmik-directservo-subwoofer-4-2004.html
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_2/diy-14-rythmik-directservo-subwoofer-4-2004.html
I'm really supprised no one has yet said this...
If you want deep bass, Two words...
Linkwitz transform
Just get a driver with ALOT of excursion and power handling and a big amp. Slap on the LT and there you go....
If you dont know what a linkwitz transform( LT) is, basically it is equalization on the extremely low end for sealed boxes. It is said to electronically change the Q of the system and lower the F3 to a point similar to a larger sealed or vented box. The only downside is power and excursion requirements, but like I said... get a sub that handles alot of power and has alot of excurison.
If you want deep bass, Two words...
Linkwitz transform
Just get a driver with ALOT of excursion and power handling and a big amp. Slap on the LT and there you go....
If you dont know what a linkwitz transform( LT) is, basically it is equalization on the extremely low end for sealed boxes. It is said to electronically change the Q of the system and lower the F3 to a point similar to a larger sealed or vented box. The only downside is power and excursion requirements, but like I said... get a sub that handles alot of power and has alot of excurison.
Hello AJ
I am getting ready to build the Rythmik Servo for a music only system, and was thinking of using Brian's recommendation of 2.1f^3. Just how much over 2f^3 did you go? and why?
Thanx
I am getting ready to build the Rythmik Servo for a music only system, and was thinking of using Brian's recommendation of 2.1f^3. Just how much over 2f^3 did you go? and why?
Thanx
... I would fully agree to the statement of BassAwdyO.
But for LT you will need some electronic design skills, especially with OP amp circuits.
If you want a small size sub that goes significantly below 30Hz, you
will probably have to go for LT.
On the other hand: If f3= 30Hz-40Hz is fine for you, then forget LT and simply search a driver which offers small Vas (less than 50 l ), low fs(20Hz...30Hz) and reasonable Qt (0.3...0.5).
High excursion is only necessary if you want to play loud.
Good Luck
Markus
But for LT you will need some electronic design skills, especially with OP amp circuits.
If you want a small size sub that goes significantly below 30Hz, you
will probably have to go for LT.
On the other hand: If f3= 30Hz-40Hz is fine for you, then forget LT and simply search a driver which offers small Vas (less than 50 l ), low fs(20Hz...30Hz) and reasonable Qt (0.3...0.5).
High excursion is only necessary if you want to play loud.
Good Luck
Markus
Currently I have no electronics experience at all (despite the fact that I assemble computers and servers as part of my job 🙂) so I'm thinking that, although the Linkwitz might be a good suggestion, is probably a bit out of my scope at the moment.
I'm not looking for monster bass with this first go, just something to complement my current setup to give it a bit nicer low end. AFter looking at all the subs at Magnolia HiFi and such places, I just knew I could do better for less money 🙂
Choco - I will take your number advise and do a bit of searching!
I'm not looking for monster bass with this first go, just something to complement my current setup to give it a bit nicer low end. AFter looking at all the subs at Magnolia HiFi and such places, I just knew I could do better for less money 🙂
Choco - I will take your number advise and do a bit of searching!
ChocoHolic said:...
High excursion is only necessary if you want to play loud.
Good Luck
Markus
Or low........
Cheers,
Rob
Shockvalue,
Do a few searches on room gain and low Q sealed stuff. I'm pretty sure a pair of xls 12" ers will sort you out good and proper.
Take a look at the 12" RL-p sub from SoundSplinter. Low distortion and suited for small enclosures if you use a LT. Don't be too afraid of LT circuits just because of a lack of electronics skills... there are PCB's and kits available that walk you through the assembly process (no design required at all), and there are even a couple of plate amps that have LT circuits built in that you can utilize (at least one line from Adire Audio does that I know of off-hand).
A 12" RL-p in a 1.5cf enclosure wouldn't need overly agressive LT EQ applied at all. The result would be a flat, low distortion, deep, and extremely powerful sub.
A 12" RL-p in a 1.5cf enclosure wouldn't need overly agressive LT EQ applied at all. The result would be a flat, low distortion, deep, and extremely powerful sub.
Mace, mine are 2.5^3. I built the boxes previous to Brians recommendation. 2.1^3 ft will be fine.I am getting ready to build the Rythmik Servo for a music only system, and was thinking of using Brian's recommendation of 2.1f^3. Just how much over 2f^3 did you go? and why?
Shock/BassAwdyO,
if you look at the site I recommended you will see that Brian also offers LT's for his non-servo plate amps.
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/lt.htm
For the cost compared to a Servo vs LT/Driver X however, I'd go w/ the Servo.
Cheers,
AJ
AE/Stryke AV12 is a great sub in small sealed box. Another option is the Vifa MA26WR09-04 with an f3 of 33Hz in a 1.5 cuber. No personal experience with the Vifa, but the AV12 works wonders in small ensealed enclosures I know from experience.
Noidster
Noidster
color-blind here sorry. if it were me, going strictly on that graph, I would probably go with the line that is second down at 20Hz. It appears to have nice smooth roll-off, and yet a decent f3 in the mid-high 30's, giving me very usable response down into the low 20's.
Noidster
Noidster
Just to throw out there... I bought two RE8s a few years ago and tried them in a couple boxes for them including a 1.2 cu ft tuned to about 32 Hz. Sounded very decent in the car with very little power. Tried it in the home and sounded great with music (or as great as seperate subs usually can sound... I'm not really a fan) and with about 98% of home theater. As I recall, the lowest shakes in End Of Days pushed it too far but I was only using one sub.
Using WinISD, it looks like two of them model very nicely into 1.2 cu ft tuned to about 30 Hz. Comes under your target size.
Using WinISD, it looks like two of them model very nicely into 1.2 cu ft tuned to about 30 Hz. Comes under your target size.
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