I need some cheap(think $0-3) mids for my home theater that play down to at least 200 hz. The lower the better. I was going to invest in nsb's from partsexpress, but they are out of stock.
They are going to be played in a 2 way open baffle, with multiple drivers (3-4 mids per speaker, and however many tweeters i need to match them). They will have passive crossovers and i am willing to go 3 way in the front to extend the lower frequencys, but as a last resort. The tweeter i am looking at using is the Goldwood Gt-302S. Any suggestions?
They are going to be played in a 2 way open baffle, with multiple drivers (3-4 mids per speaker, and however many tweeters i need to match them). They will have passive crossovers and i am willing to go 3 way in the front to extend the lower frequencys, but as a last resort. The tweeter i am looking at using is the Goldwood Gt-302S. Any suggestions?
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Well that price range doesn't really give you a lot of options, but maybe one of these would fit the bill?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-488
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-492
Multiple tweeters is never a good idea IMO. Try for a single tweeter that has meets the sensitivity requirements for your project.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-488
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-492
Multiple tweeters is never a good idea IMO. Try for a single tweeter that has meets the sensitivity requirements for your project.
underage,
I would suggest a different approach. The mids are what you listen to most. If you buy one good one instead 4 cheap ones, you get a better sound and you eliminate a lot of problems with multi-driver systems. Same with the tweets as DcibeL said. More is not necessarily a better thing.
Unless you are trying to impress someone other than yourself. Then use four mids and two tweeters per side. 😉
I would suggest a different approach. The mids are what you listen to most. If you buy one good one instead 4 cheap ones, you get a better sound and you eliminate a lot of problems with multi-driver systems. Same with the tweets as DcibeL said. More is not necessarily a better thing.
Unless you are trying to impress someone other than yourself. Then use four mids and two tweeters per side. 😉
I agree completely; 4 poor speakers is just more of the same. One better one is the way to go, and imaging will be better too.
http://www.madisound.com have a sale section. I just saw some Audax drivers there in your price range (for up to $12 for one, rather than 4 X $3). I would not suggest an aerogel; the one I evaluated some time ago needed very careful crossover work. The only other one in the group that I've heard is the little Fostex "full range" which is amazingly good, but a bit out of your price range. You might find though that you could do without a tweeter for a while; the Fostex's go pretty high. That might save you enough to allow you to buy the Fostex.
For Home Theater, you might want to consider shielded drivers, so the magnetic field won't mess up the TV CRT (if it has one).
http://www.madisound.com have a sale section. I just saw some Audax drivers there in your price range (for up to $12 for one, rather than 4 X $3). I would not suggest an aerogel; the one I evaluated some time ago needed very careful crossover work. The only other one in the group that I've heard is the little Fostex "full range" which is amazingly good, but a bit out of your price range. You might find though that you could do without a tweeter for a while; the Fostex's go pretty high. That might save you enough to allow you to buy the Fostex.
For Home Theater, you might want to consider shielded drivers, so the magnetic field won't mess up the TV CRT (if it has one).
thanks for you replies. The multiple driver idea came as a mini line array inspiration.
would the audax driver you mentioned be significantly better than this one Goldwood GW4028 ?
would the audax driver you mentioned be significantly better than this one Goldwood GW4028 ?
I can't really talk about what I have not heard.
I looked at some of the curves above; certainly commendable that real curves are furnished. Beware of low cost drivers with suspiciously smooth curves.
A good general rule, especially for someone new to the hobby is to avoid speakers with peaks. The high end peaks that some of the graphs show require much more care and complexity in the crossover design. A smooth rolloff is MUCH easier to work with.
A trap (a notch filter) may be necessary to get rid of the peak, and you really need measuring equipment (and simulation software) to get it right. At best, you'd need a steep, early, crossover design, so that the peak is WELL suppressed. Again more complexity than you want to get involved with at this stage.
If you have a smooth upper end rolloff on the lower frequency speaker (woofer or mid) and you have a tweeter that has its resonance at least an octave (two if possible ) below the crossover point, you can use a relatively simple crossover, and with a bit of trial and error, even do a decent job by ear. Be sure the drivers are broken in (40? hours) and use polypropylene capacitors designed for speaker crossover use.
And good luck. I think you'll have fun with this.
I looked at some of the curves above; certainly commendable that real curves are furnished. Beware of low cost drivers with suspiciously smooth curves.
A good general rule, especially for someone new to the hobby is to avoid speakers with peaks. The high end peaks that some of the graphs show require much more care and complexity in the crossover design. A smooth rolloff is MUCH easier to work with.
A trap (a notch filter) may be necessary to get rid of the peak, and you really need measuring equipment (and simulation software) to get it right. At best, you'd need a steep, early, crossover design, so that the peak is WELL suppressed. Again more complexity than you want to get involved with at this stage.
If you have a smooth upper end rolloff on the lower frequency speaker (woofer or mid) and you have a tweeter that has its resonance at least an octave (two if possible ) below the crossover point, you can use a relatively simple crossover, and with a bit of trial and error, even do a decent job by ear. Be sure the drivers are broken in (40? hours) and use polypropylene capacitors designed for speaker crossover use.
And good luck. I think you'll have fun with this.
Thanks for the help. It may look like the speakers will get pushed off for some time yet. The reasons being that I need a new reciever first, my current sony 3-way towers are doing the job (though they sound quite dull to me), and i'm toying with the idea of building a diy projector before speakers.
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