Where can I purchase high end components to build a DIY POWERED sub?

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I'd like to build a DIY powered sub, trouble is, I don't know where to purchase very high quality items, such as the amplifier, the variable crossover, the driver, etc. I'd also like to build this unit with a remote controlled volume control. Do any of you know where these types of items can be found? Thanks.
You might try looking at http://www.partsexpress.com.
They have amps (Class D or something, they're pretty small to be putting out the wattages they claim) and drivers and prefab boxes. Pick and choose how much you want to handle yourself. I'd be suspicious of the sound quality of those little amps, though. The boxes and drivers should do you just fine. There are numerous DIY amps out there that might suit you. Hit the amps section, then links.
Good luck.


For nice drivers try lambda acoustics or tc sounds, there are others of course but I've heard the most about those two. There are several lambda drivers at stryke.com and that is the only place I can point you to buy a tc sounds driver. I believe stryke carries the he15 from tc sounds which is a really serious driver. I just heard somthing about a sv18 from aci concepts (subwoofers.com) which looks pretty serious also. Both the sv18 and the he15 would need more than 1000 watts to push them anywhere near there limits. The lambda's will not need nearly as much power.

If you don't have any software I suggest finding some. There is plenty of freeware out there. I used perfect box and a spread sheet from http://www.diysubwoofers.org/. Good luck and have fun,

Also, if I decide to go the route of using car audio drivers, I can get MTX from a distributor at dealers cost. Their top of the line drivers are certainly amoung the best available. The trouble seems to be finding an amp powerful enough to really make them sing in a DIY home theater application. To get full performance, they would need at least 400 watts, preferably 500-600 watts each. Where can I find an amp that makes that much power?

I've heard good things about Crown amps for high power can't comment on where to get them. Be careful with car subs some are not suitible for home use as they rely on high cabin gains to pick up the bottom end. There are of course some that are perfectly fine for home use. Plug the ts parameters into one of teh box programs and see how low they will play. You will still pick up some room gain the
-8db point will probably be a more realistic bottom end then the -3db point.

Car vs. Home subs

Wade: This is exactly why I chose the Mass 2012 driver from Audiomobileinc.com - although intended for a car, it simulates *AND PERFORMS* FLAT to below 20Hz. In my 145L vented box, I get flat response down to 15Hz. But your warning is well founded, I think you'll have a hard time getting ANY response out of an MTX driver at 15Hz or even 20Hz. Absolute best thing to do is get the T/S parameters for the driver and plug them into a simulation program. You can download WinISD for free. It works quite nicely. Any competent driver manufacturer will have the T/S parameters posted on their web page for all of their drivers.
Those looked pretty nice

I looked at the automobile subs. I think they were a little pricy for me and I was wife limmited to about 40 litres. The sb 10 I ended up with does very well for a small sub. I don't have any measurements, but the in room f3 should be about 20hz. How much did that sub weigh, If I remember correctly it had an insane motor. Your right there are some car subs that would work very well for home use, usually not the typical circuit city offerings though.

The ts parameters to look for would be a low fs around 20 and a large x-max 12mm+ the circuit city type subs will tend to have a linear x-max of 8mm or less and an fs of around 30hz. I'm sure there are exceptions but that is what I saw when I was looking.

One Heavy Sub...

Wade: The Mass 2012 driver weighs in at 30lbs. all by itself! I used "sonotube" and MDF for my enclosure. Two layers of 0.75" MDF on top and on bottom. The enclosure by itself weighs almost 70 lbs. so the total weight for the sub is 95-100lbs. I think you can get away with a smaller cabinet for a sealed sub - mine is a little larger because its vented. Put a table cloth over the top of it and it looks like an end table, "hiding" nicely in the corner.

You are absolutely rights about choosing a driver for a sub, I'd look for one with Fs as close to 20Hz as possible, and look for a MINIMUM xmax (one way, NOT peak-to-peak)of about 10-12mm. The Mass driver has Fs of 22Hz and xmax (one way) of 19mm. Lots of bass out of that puppy!
The folks at MTX quoted me the wrong specs on this driver. The one way xmas is 9.4mm instead of 8.1mm. Still not great, but closer to what's needed. I received my amp today, and the driver yesterday. I almost have the enclosure finished, should be ready to fire up this weekend. I guess I'll find out then how it will work. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
have you simmed the enclosure?

The proper cabinet for the driver will make a tremendous difference in its performance. A cabinet that is too small will have greatly reduced bass output, and a cabinet that is too large will suffer the same deficiency... Finding the right size without using simulation software is nearly impossible. Also, vented vs. sealed enclosures will make a very big difference. Just want to make sure you get the best performance you can!
Fortunately, the driver came with several recommendations for enclosure sizes to include sealed, ported, and bandpass enclosures. I'm building a sealed enclosure. I've always preferred the sound of sealed enclosures because of their tight, punchy bass. Plus they are the easiest to build, and the smallest. MTX says the reference size for a sealed enclosure is 2.5 cft, and that's what I'm building. We shall see.
Wow, 5 cft? It must be huge! I thought mine was big. I finished mine last night. And the verdict? Awesome isn't an overstatement. I think it sounds every bit as good as a lot of the subs I've heard that were priced at more than $1000. The bass is tight and punchy, and it seems to go very low. It also gets very loud, so loud in fact, that it made my DVD/CD player skip! The amp's level control is set at less than half (about the 11 o'clock position). This amp has some serious power! My total investment was right around $300. A bargain, to say the least. I wouldn't hesitate to build another one, or recommend a DIY project to someone else.
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