hey was wondering if any one had schematic or a design that would utilise 8 mj15024 and 8 mj15023 and a +-82v PSU with secondary tails of +-16v presumably for preamp or regulated driver stage any ideas
any help greatly appreciated
any help greatly appreciated
You could build a Mother of a sub amp (mono) or a 2 channel amp with 4 pairs/channel. These MJ15023/4 have good beta holdup to about 2-3A , so there's 8-12A per channel. Also their SOA at 80V is on 2A which derates the case thermal limit to 160W - a good margin. So if your after an 8 ohm amp you're set. Just need some good drivers. I used to use 2N3584/6421 both TO66 for this purpose and they should easily drive 4 pair. I would use a cfp with 5551/5401 for driver and predriver. Then a LED feedback complementary cascode Vas and dual diff'l input either fet or bjt.
Too easy.
Too easy.
was looking at the following design but would require uprating to use the larger PSU rails was wondering if any one had listening experience with this amp
http://www.alphalink.com.au/~cambie/ETI466Web.htm
http://www.alphalink.com.au/~cambie/ETI466Web.htm
Hi moofer,
Sorry can't seem to download schematic. But the advantage you have with this is that you can probably build it from DS, jaycar or Altronics parts!
the designs published are usually flogging some commercial enterprises wares as the primary underlier.
And they say love makes the world go around!
Good luck.
Sorry can't seem to download schematic. But the advantage you have with this is that you can probably build it from DS, jaycar or Altronics parts!
the designs published are usually flogging some commercial enterprises wares as the primary underlier.
And they say love makes the world go around!
Good luck.
The 2N3584/6421 are great drivers, but being discontinued are a bit hard to find at reasonable prices.
I would build a Leach.
http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/lowtim/
Only two resistors need be changed to run on the higher voltage, R13 and R14. Add your extra outputs. Change the drivers to the next higher voltage group (250V), MJE15032/33.
I would build a Leach.
http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/lowtim/
Only two resistors need be changed to run on the higher voltage, R13 and R14. Add your extra outputs. Change the drivers to the next higher voltage group (250V), MJE15032/33.
heard and read lots good things about the leach amps might look into it what the complexity of the build like for the leach amps? .just a heads up all these components are recovered from a dead peavey 8.5c all output transistors desoldered and tested ok. unfortunately the drive stage detonated its transistors .
couldnt capture the blue smoke and save the soul of that amp
couldnt capture the blue smoke and save the soul of that amp
The Leach is easier than the ETI 1466.
The ETI is a CFP design with voltage gain in the output stage, hard to stabilize.
The sonics of the Leach are very , very good. The Peavey will make a good parts doner.
The ETI is a CFP design with voltage gain in the output stage, hard to stabilize.
The sonics of the Leach are very , very good. The Peavey will make a good parts doner.
will go with the leach.I will be arranging the ordering and the delivery of the components in the next 2 weeks. is there anything else that you guys think i will need to take into account for the uprating of this design(aside from a bigger heatsink ). will also be mounting the ouput transistors in a fan type HS(pic attached) facing each other in a tunnel ram style .
running on the presumption the leach isnt a DIY amp/heating system .😕
). will also be mounting the ouput transistors in a fan type HS(pic attached) facing each other in a tunnel ram style .running on the presumption the leach isnt a DIY amp/heating system
.😕Attachments
In case you missed it, there is a Leach board group buy going on now. http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=+Leach+Amp+PCB+Group+Buy this board is a Jens Rasmussen redesign for Plastic output devices. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=658070#post658070 for info
Contact Gengis immediately if you are interested, as he is taking money right now, planning to order on Friday.
Edit:
No, the Leach does not waste a lot of heat. I've got a 4 channel version on one of Apex Jr.'s tunnel heatsinks (about middle of this page http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm - easier to use than the sinks you show for TO-3 devices) that does not need a fan for most home use. It sounds very nice.
Contact Gengis immediately if you are interested, as he is taking money right now, planning to order on Friday.
Edit:
No, the Leach does not waste a lot of heat. I've got a 4 channel version on one of Apex Jr.'s tunnel heatsinks (about middle of this page http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm - easier to use than the sinks you show for TO-3 devices) that does not need a fan for most home use. It sounds very nice.
Yep.
You may as well go with the Leach and your T03 BJT's - at least it's got a cascode on the diff'l pairs although only a single slope 1/2 cycle SOA limiter.
Could do worse.
You may as well go with the Leach and your T03 BJT's - at least it's got a cascode on the diff'l pairs although only a single slope 1/2 cycle SOA limiter.
Could do worse.
group buy
crap too late to order pcb for leach clone if any one over ordered and is interested in onselling to me please email me ian@quicksilver.net.nz
crap too late to order pcb for leach clone if any one over ordered and is interested in onselling to me please email me ian@quicksilver.net.nz
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