What solder to recommended?

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Use a leaded Eutectic. They are cheap, they work at lowish temperatures, they flow well, there is a wide variety available.
63/37 works very well. It comes in a variety of diameters and a variety of fluxes.
Buy 2 or 3 different diameters once you find the flux that you like.

Eutectic Triple and Eutectic Quad are usually very good, but a lot more expensive. I only know of one Quad, the Cardas version.
There are a few Triples, some based on lead/tin and some on lead and some on tin.
You could try Lead/Tin/Copper, but it's not a Eutectic. It erodes copper tips much less. Use a plated tip, don't rely on the Copper content to save your plain copper tips.
I have for years used Ersin Multicore 60/40 Tin/Lead in, as Andrew suggests, 0.56mm, 0.7mm or 1.2mm diameter according to whether I am soldering surface mount, normal PCB or heavier component lugs. I have never had any problems with this type of solder. More recently I have been forced to use lead free solder by some customers, it is a real pain, higher temperatures, shorter bit life and more potential damage to sensitve components. Don`t bother with it for personal use.

Solder pumps need new washers and tips from time to time to maintain efficiency.

Whatever you do, do not use lead-free solder !!

60/40 multicore is best for repairing older gear.
I would also avoid "silver"solder.



:snowman2: Hello,
I will jump in with an opinion.
This is where i fit in too.
Good old 60% tin 40% lead is perfect solder.
The old stuff you are working on will not be lead free to start with.
Some times on old joints I use a dab of no-corrode paste flux, whatever was there years ago is gone.
0.062 is 1/16” fat. I have some but rarely use it. 0.031 or 1/32” gets used most often
All just for fun!
I use 0.5 mm solder for SMD parts. 0.7~0.8 mm for everything else. Get the 60/40 solder with flux in it. If you need a little extra flux to make the solder flow on an old dry joint, use a flux pen.

Solder suckers need periodic cleaning. In addition, I've found that some regular acid free oil or grease on the O-rings give them a better seal, hence, more suction.

Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
I dont know very much about solder

but I do know the role silver content have had for years
and how much it cost

if you look at new types of leadfree you will notice many of them having silver content
silver is obviously doing something for leadfree, technically
and its not even expencive, and not reflected on the price
which is quite funny to think of

but so far, noone is raving about leadfree with silver content, yet
well, I guess silver solder just lost its expencive highend status
Kester 63/37 or 60/40 "44 rosin flux" .031" diameter, or the Ersin equivalent would be ideal for most things. Lead free will probably destroy the things you're trying to fix. You should definitely have a supply of liquid rosin flux to help with tough joints, or a "flux pen" at the very least. The flux in the solder isn't sufficient to do the best job on some repairs. Do not get water washable flux unless you're building boards from scratch and use a water washable core solder like 331; those systems have to be washed or you'll get corrosion.

Use tin/lead 63/37 or tin/lead/silver 62/32/2 both true eutectic solders, makes getting a good joint easier as the metals all become liquid at the same time (no pasty stage).
Silver is added to lead free solder to help the intermetalics form better, one of the common ones being SAC305 for wave soldering. There was a proliferation of different Pb free solders in the late 90s early 2000s to try and find a decent replacement for tin/lead solder, they havn't done yet. Tin based solder without lead causes all sorts of problems from tin whiskers to eating away steel solder pots (they are titanium coated now).
Silver in tin/lead solder is primerialy there to get a better joint when using silver plated copper wire, again its all about getting the correct intermetalic layers to avoid brittle or dry joints.
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