Hi,
I bought some wharfedale active diamond speakers cheap ($10) because one side was not working. When I tested the driver it read open circuit. When I tested between the two blobs of solder on the actual cone it read 8 ohms. I thought, awesome, its just a dry solder joint. So I resoldered the terminals to the flexible wires that go to the cone, but it still read open circuit.
Then I touched up the joint on the cone from the flexible wire to the coil windings, but it still measured open circuit. The funny thing was, when I measured from the terminal to the wire it read zero ohms, and when I measured from the wire to the solder blob it read zero ohms. The break was in the middle of one of the flexible copper wires. Yet I could pull on the wire and it was strong. A nonconductive braided uninsulated copper wire?
After I wiggled the wire around a few times it became conductive.
Has anyone had this problem?
I bought some wharfedale active diamond speakers cheap ($10) because one side was not working. When I tested the driver it read open circuit. When I tested between the two blobs of solder on the actual cone it read 8 ohms. I thought, awesome, its just a dry solder joint. So I resoldered the terminals to the flexible wires that go to the cone, but it still read open circuit.
Then I touched up the joint on the cone from the flexible wire to the coil windings, but it still measured open circuit. The funny thing was, when I measured from the terminal to the wire it read zero ohms, and when I measured from the wire to the solder blob it read zero ohms. The break was in the middle of one of the flexible copper wires. Yet I could pull on the wire and it was strong. A nonconductive braided uninsulated copper wire?
After I wiggled the wire around a few times it became conductive.
Has anyone had this problem?
Caleb, solder a very flexible and thin wire directly to the blobs then.
Use a high heat soldering iron, and touch the blobs for a split second to fuse the wire together. If you fail and destroy the cone...you can always salvage parts from the speaker - especially the active circuitry/amplifier. For $10, the risks are well worth it.
Enjoy~
-Dee-
Use a high heat soldering iron, and touch the blobs for a split second to fuse the wire together. If you fail and destroy the cone...you can always salvage parts from the speaker - especially the active circuitry/amplifier. For $10, the risks are well worth it.
Enjoy~
-Dee-
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