Want to build a Loud & Clear system

I'm looking to build a loud car audio system that will operate on factory power. I'm operating on the premise that I have 1200 to 1400 watts RMS to work with. Firstly is that about right? The vehicle is a 2012 Toyota Wish (JDM) which has a 1800CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI engine.

With limited space, I'm going with a single 10". I've ordered the Resilient RS-10. [Before I go on, note that all of my wattages will be listed RMS] The RS-10 is 500 watts and will be powered be a DS-18 FRX3.5K, which is 1300 watts at 4 ohms. Overkill, but I got a great deal. The question here is with the gain turned down will the amp more power than a right sized amp?

I've ordered four DS18 PRO-X6.4BM 6.5" 4 ohm Midrange Bullet Loudspeakers (250 watts) and four DS18 PRO-TW120 4 ohm Pro Aluminum Super Bullet Tweeters (120 watts). They will be powered by a DS18 PRO-FR 600.4, which will be ran at 2 ohms, giving me 240 watts per channel. Question is what is the result of wiring tweeters on two channels and mids on two channels as opposed to a mid and tweeter on each channel? Also, I know the DS18's are loud but are they capable of quality sound. I'm a value for money type guy so, if there are better loudspeakers that are a bit more costly, but produce much better sound I'm all in.

Last component is my head. I've purchased the AboutBit Bluetooth Double Din Car Stereo - 7 inch HD Touchscreen MP5 Player Car Audio Receiver – Phonelink | Rearview Camera | AM/FM Radio | USB/SD/AUX | Subwoofer | SWC | Wireless Remote Control. The unit was only $75 from Amazon. Are these inexpensive units capable of producing quality sound or should I purchase a better component if I hope to get quality sound.
 
SQL system on a budget might be a handful.
I'm unsure how you have planned the whole build, but I'm guessing something custom to be able to fit those tweeters.
For SQ it's also best to have speakers just up front in the car, so four tweeters wouldn't be needed, and otherwise in that budget I personally would pick something that's easier to install (and that most likely will sound better).
You will need either passive crossover for the intended drivers, or DSP, and that will pretty much dictate how you wire them.
Look over the power supply carefully, every forum and group on the web get posts every day from people that have burned their amps due to under sized power supply.
I hope that will help some.
 
The four tweeters are intended to replace ones that came in the vehicle. The front ones are in dash just below the windshield and will fit for certain. The rear ones I'm not sure about but my installer insist they will fit.

Everything is in hand so we should be installing this weekend, fingers crossed!
 
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So I don't have any equipment (or knowledge) to test my results but the system sounds great. There are some issues. The first issue is the DS18 PRO-FR 600.4 amp was cutting out once the volume went past 18-20 volume. My Installer found that the issue was on 2 of the channels so he bridged the other two and we're running the mids and tweeters on half the amp. This is temporary fix, but the amp is discontinued so I'm looking at the DS-18 S-3000.4D as a replacement. It's 190w RMS @ 4 ohms, up from 150w.

The cheap Chinese HU is ok but, I now know that there are some really good brands in the category like Joying & Xtrons so I may upgrade if I can find one with DSP at a decent price.

Of course I've blown the budget but in for a penny...
 
Turn down your gains and the sub will be fine, better if sealed.

I don’t know if you’ll get clean, but definitely loud. The install will determine a large amount of how it will sound. I also own a similar generation Toyota, and those doors are thin.
Some of the damping material applied to a good portion of the inner side of the door skins, along with blocking off all openings within a foot of the speakers will go a long ways. Also will likely need to brace the doors next to where the speaker mounts as well.
You really need a dsp and eq in a car since that environment is truly awful for sound reproduction, and it’s going to be very hard to keep those doors from rattling at anything more than 40-50watts realistically.
 
Turn down your gains and the sub will be fine, better if sealed.

I don’t know if you’ll get clean, but definitely loud. The install will determine a large amount of how it will sound. I also own a similar generation Toyota, and those doors are thin.
Some of the damping material applied to a good portion of the inner side of the door skins, along with blocking off all openings within a foot of the speakers will go a long ways. Also will likely need to brace the doors next to where the speaker mounts as well.
You really need a dsp and eq in a car since that environment is truly awful for sound reproduction, and it’s going to be very hard to keep those doors from rattling at anything more than 40-50watts realistically.
The RS10 is specified for ported only and it's doing ok. Not sure it's tuned properly though, right now we're running both signals through an Audiopipe electronic crossover but I'm about to order the Expert PX8.2 Connect Bluetooth Digital Audio Processor which is supposed to work as DSP & EQ.

I am now looking at known brand amps on the theory that they would be more efficient and deliver more watts for power consumed.