Hi guys,
I realise that probably most of the mods i allready did are in the opinion of many to be psycho acoustic related..
BUT, i would appreciate if you guys could have a look if there are any further components in the player worth upgrading.
E.g. the opamps or some other caps?
SO ANY RECCOMENDATIONS ARE VERY WELCOME! 😉
To summarise what i have done allready;
1. Eliminated vibrations to the flimsy plastic transport by covering parts with bitumen.
> I perceived this as being a good addition, as such, that to MY ears afterwards this mod, the music sounding more pleasing, a bit cleaner.
2. Replaced the original fuses with the brand 'hifi tuning fuses'.
> This was an experiment, i did not really believe in the possibility of this making any difference, (Warning: this might be VERY psycho acoustic) i was wrong, to my suprise it did make quite a difference. and i do not regret having done this.
3. Bypassed the ac filtering on the psu
> this, to my ears, was a good enough mod, i got this tip from a guide from Tino (an Italian gentleman who has a webblog regarding his modification of the xa5400es player and is the reason why i also started this little project.)
4. Replaced the coupling caps surrounding the DAC chip with Elna Silmic II in greater values.
> I am very very content with the result! This was a cheap mod and brought so much, again to my ears😉
5. PSU caps before the regulators: Changed originals with higher capacitance values Nichicon KX/KG
> This was part of the mod i did all at once, the sum was that i got a good improvement but it is difficult to say which contributed most.
6. C183, C156 and C159 (power line crystal oscillator and clock): replaced originals with Elna Silmic 2 higher voltage
>This was also part of the mod i did all at once, the sum was that i got a good improvement but it is difficult to say which contributed most.
7. Replaced the 5V power supply regulator (a Rohm BA05T), used for both the DAC and the clock circuit, with a Fidelity Audio SPower Digital.
> I perceived this as a good mod, SQ improved in my opinion
8. Resistors in signal path: Kiwame and 2 Shinkoh's
>This was also part of the mod i did all at once, the sum was that i got a good improvement but it is difficult to say which contributed most.
And now for the mods which i have in mind and would like YOUR opinion on! 😉 😉
> QUESTION:
Replace opamps with I/V convertion?
Which?
Thanks for reading and looking forward to some nice tips !!
I realise that probably most of the mods i allready did are in the opinion of many to be psycho acoustic related..
BUT, i would appreciate if you guys could have a look if there are any further components in the player worth upgrading.
E.g. the opamps or some other caps?
SO ANY RECCOMENDATIONS ARE VERY WELCOME! 😉
To summarise what i have done allready;
1. Eliminated vibrations to the flimsy plastic transport by covering parts with bitumen.
> I perceived this as being a good addition, as such, that to MY ears afterwards this mod, the music sounding more pleasing, a bit cleaner.
2. Replaced the original fuses with the brand 'hifi tuning fuses'.
> This was an experiment, i did not really believe in the possibility of this making any difference, (Warning: this might be VERY psycho acoustic) i was wrong, to my suprise it did make quite a difference. and i do not regret having done this.
3. Bypassed the ac filtering on the psu
> this, to my ears, was a good enough mod, i got this tip from a guide from Tino (an Italian gentleman who has a webblog regarding his modification of the xa5400es player and is the reason why i also started this little project.)
4. Replaced the coupling caps surrounding the DAC chip with Elna Silmic II in greater values.
> I am very very content with the result! This was a cheap mod and brought so much, again to my ears😉
5. PSU caps before the regulators: Changed originals with higher capacitance values Nichicon KX/KG
> This was part of the mod i did all at once, the sum was that i got a good improvement but it is difficult to say which contributed most.
6. C183, C156 and C159 (power line crystal oscillator and clock): replaced originals with Elna Silmic 2 higher voltage
>This was also part of the mod i did all at once, the sum was that i got a good improvement but it is difficult to say which contributed most.
7. Replaced the 5V power supply regulator (a Rohm BA05T), used for both the DAC and the clock circuit, with a Fidelity Audio SPower Digital.
> I perceived this as a good mod, SQ improved in my opinion
8. Resistors in signal path: Kiwame and 2 Shinkoh's
>This was also part of the mod i did all at once, the sum was that i got a good improvement but it is difficult to say which contributed most.
And now for the mods which i have in mind and would like YOUR opinion on! 😉 😉
> QUESTION:
Replace opamps with I/V convertion?
Which?
Thanks for reading and looking forward to some nice tips !!
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I suggest getting a service manual FIRST
then understand the circuit and layout before diving in.
What are hi-fi tuning fuses?
Where are the ceramics you are going to replace, what is their function in the circuit, is replacing a ceramic with an electrolytic a good idea, not without knowing the circuit operation.
Replacing ceramic decoupling caps (the most common use of ceramic caps in SMD designs these days) with electros is not a good idea.
Where are the ceramics you are going to replace, what is their function in the circuit, is replacing a ceramic with an electrolytic a good idea, not without knowing the circuit operation.
Replacing ceramic decoupling caps (the most common use of ceramic caps in SMD designs these days) with electros is not a good idea.
Always refer to the service manual. Bitumen on the cd mech, Hi Fi fuse? Improved the output sound? I find that hard to believe!
Hi Jon, thanks for your reply, i appreciate it when people try to keep me on the ground!!
So yes, i agree.. and last thing i want to do is to say that these mods are something somebody should try (thus people spending money on the wrong things), i just state that i did change the fuses and that in my perception it bettered the sound, this is probably psycho acoustic, i know i am sensitive to that and again appreciate your reply, however..;
i can understand such replies come from people with a sound background in audio engineering, when you do not have that, and still want to DIY on the equipment you have you start looking for easy mods, like the fuses, if i would have a knowledge of the circuit i agree again with you that i probably woulnd't bother.
Therefore i started this thread, on DIY, because i know knowledgeable people come here, and i just hoped that maybe some people have allready changed a few aspects on the player which benefitted the sound, e.g. the opamps or any other component.
Hi Marce, thanks for your reply!
I have copied the page in the service manual and circled red is the caps i replace with the Elna's.
Why on earth would i do that you might think..
I have found a webblog of a person in Italy that modded his player and documented it thoroughly, this mod he describes as being a worthwile mod.
I maybe very stupid now.
Especially since i am almost done allready..
Please if you think it might be a very bad idea, can you than explain why?
Would be obliged!
Thank you.
Attachments
PS,
i am not changing the ceramic caps (the very small ones) i was mistaken, i change the C163, C205, C208, C209 and C255
i am not changing the ceramic caps (the very small ones) i was mistaken, i change the C163, C205, C208, C209 and C255
C164, 206, 207, 210 & 256 are local decoupling caps, these should be left alone. As to changing the SMD electros, I would doubt you would get much if any sound improvement, the added inductance of leaded devices will change the decoupling scheme somewhat, but as they are larger reservoir caps not as critical for placement as the lower value caps mentioned above.
Hmm ok, all is working.. but:
My wife and i sat down to listen to the result of the modification, i can say that we were not happy with the result.
There seems to be quite a bit more energy and even fine detail, to the point it is 'noisy', but even worse, the soundstage has totally changed and not for the better.
It is not focused anymore as it was previousilly.
I know i have been a bit silly with not first ask on this forum instead of trusting someone his modifications which are on the internet.
So i followed the 'design' of the other person who modded his XA5400es and although i thought it to be strange that he used different values for capacitors than the original design, he was so enthiaustic about his mod that i thought it would be ok.
Ok, lesson learnt.
Anyhow, can someone please have a look at the values, they are in the right above corner of the picture. (BTW, the IC202 in the middle is the DAC chip)
And maybe clarify why there is the change in sound?
Would very much appreciate it!
BTW, how sensitive are the (very small) ceramic caps to heat?? , i might have touched one with my iron, just a second or two but still..
Thanks, Rgrds, Simon
My wife and i sat down to listen to the result of the modification, i can say that we were not happy with the result.
There seems to be quite a bit more energy and even fine detail, to the point it is 'noisy', but even worse, the soundstage has totally changed and not for the better.
It is not focused anymore as it was previousilly.
I know i have been a bit silly with not first ask on this forum instead of trusting someone his modifications which are on the internet.
So i followed the 'design' of the other person who modded his XA5400es and although i thought it to be strange that he used different values for capacitors than the original design, he was so enthiaustic about his mod that i thought it would be ok.
Ok, lesson learnt.
Anyhow, can someone please have a look at the values, they are in the right above corner of the picture. (BTW, the IC202 in the middle is the DAC chip)
And maybe clarify why there is the change in sound?
Would very much appreciate it!
BTW, how sensitive are the (very small) ceramic caps to heat?? , i might have touched one with my iron, just a second or two but still..
Thanks, Rgrds, Simon
Attachments
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Anyhow, can someone please have a look at the values, they are in the right above corner of the picture. (BTW, the IC202 in the middle is the DAC chip)
And maybe clarify why the different values change the sound so much?
Can you simply change values for these caps?
Would very much appreciate it!
BTW, how sensitive are the (very small) ceramic caps to heat?? , i might have touched one with my iron, just a second or two but still.. (C206, C207 etc.)
Thanks, Rgrds, Simon
[emoji106]
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For critical power integrity I use this software at work....
CADSTAR Power Integrity Advance
This software was originally designed for a certain large electronics company for their power integrity verification. Changing the value of these decoupling capacitors has altered a lot of things, mainly the power supply impedances at the operating frequencies, this can have a negative effect! I would suggest that Sony did choose the values for a reason.
Heat on the ceramics shouldn't be a major problem, but if they are MLCC's they may have been damaged if the iron banged against them.
🙂
CADSTAR Power Integrity Advance
This software was originally designed for a certain large electronics company for their power integrity verification. Changing the value of these decoupling capacitors has altered a lot of things, mainly the power supply impedances at the operating frequencies, this can have a negative effect! I would suggest that Sony did choose the values for a reason.
Heat on the ceramics shouldn't be a major problem, but if they are MLCC's they may have been damaged if the iron banged against them.
🙂
I know Marce won't like me saying this, but it is a repeatable & verifiable fact- New caps, especially electrolytics, need "break-in time". At least 200 hours of running, ideally music-playing, to get close to final sound, and I have confirmed repeatedly that it takes over 600 hours to get to final sound, regardless of cap brand(ignoring brands I consider too unreliable to use, such as Elna, Rubycon, Matsushita/Panasonic, Sanyo, where I don't care how long it takes to break them in, 'cause they will too soon be breaking down). Before break-in, a good lytic, such as Nichicon or Nippon Chemicon, whether on supply lines or signal path, will sound coarse or otherwise not good.
As for changing values of the caps around the dac chip, I can tell you from experience that bigger(uf value) is always going to be better on any supply pins. You just don't want to increase more than 3 or 4x on the non-supply, i.e., servo decouple, etc.
As for changing values of the caps around the dac chip, I can tell you from experience that bigger(uf value) is always going to be better on any supply pins. You just don't want to increase more than 3 or 4x on the non-supply, i.e., servo decouple, etc.
Hi Marce,
Thanks for the checkup with your program!
I checked the service manual, the small caps are not ceramic caps but described as:
Film chip, 0.1uF, 16V, 5%
Might have touched one or two of these (because of the very very tight space) for a second or three (at most) with an iron at 450Celcius..
Could this have deteroriated the sound or would they simply just fail?
resulting in a dead player, which is not the case with mine[emoji4] thankfully..
Hi stephen,
Thanks for your info, i wasn't aware of that the electrolytics needed so much time to do their thing right.
If it stays anywhere near what it sounds like now, i won't be happy, but i'll give it sone time.
But have you looked at the values in the picture?
What is your opinion then? E.g. the voltage 6.3V oposed to the 10V? Isn't this value that crucial either?
Thanks
I'd have to "decode" the board drawing to know which caps are doing which jobs for the dac. If you post the relevant section of the actual schematic diagram, I'd be more easily able to comment.
As for voltage rating, the only thing that matters is going with same or higher voltage rating, although I have to say I am not comfortable with 6.3V caps unless they are Nichicon. I've found that 6.3V caps from other brands are a whole lot less reliable than 10V+ of same brand, regardless of actual operating voltage.
As for voltage rating, the only thing that matters is going with same or higher voltage rating, although I have to say I am not comfortable with 6.3V caps unless they are Nichicon. I've found that 6.3V caps from other brands are a whole lot less reliable than 10V+ of same brand, regardless of actual operating voltage.
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