Tweeter Questions?

Hello Everyone. I am helping a friend out with a project and I know there are so many tweeters out there its just to much to sort out. I am looking to get him a great sounding tweeter that is natural and sounds good with about any music. The voices have to sound like a voices not compressed. So We are looking at $50.00 a tweeter. If you can help please let me know or if you already have a tweeter and want to share thats good to. Thanks N.S.
 
Hi,

There is much more to it than simply buying a decent tweeter.

What is your friends total budget and what sort of speaker does he want ?

rgds, sreten.


Hello there. Well He has the midwoofers and the most he will spend is $50.00 each Tweeter for his first project. I have everything else he needs but, the crossover parts. Well he is looking for a around speaker that sounds natural with voices and all kinds of music. Nothing saying here I am look at me. I want to build him a a speaker that draws him into the music. N.S.
 
NS, you have presented us without the information needed to help you. This is what it is like:

I want a tire for my car than handles well. What kind is best?

If you don't tell us all the info you have on the other drivers, the cabinet, the amps, where it will be played and a whole bunch of other things, we can't help you so please fill us in.
 
The outright accuracy of voices is largely determined by the mid-range driver, not the tweeter.....the tweeter is catching the "Suzy sews socks seriously" frequency of the sound........the "SSssss" sound, but just barely.
We need to know the make and model number of the mid-woofer he already has, & we should be able to find the specifications of this driver. Without this information we are all "in the dark".



_______________________________________________________Rick.........
 
NS, you have presented us without the information needed to help you. This is what it is like:

I want a tire for my car than handles well. What kind is best?

If you don't tell us all the info you have on the other drivers, the cabinet, the amps, where it will be played and a whole bunch of other things, we can't help you so please fill us in.


Okey here go's. It will be played next to the t.v. in the family room. ( I will have to check with him on the room size). Cabinet's I haven't looked into to that but, using maple ply-wood is a safe bet. The amp is a jvc JAS 31 integraded amp for now.Also has a modd dayton DTA T- amp and a Sansui 250 that solid state amp that is in the middle of repair. Wire is reg. speaker wire. The woofers he is looking at using is the SB Acoustics 23NRXS45- 8" drivers the Scan speak 22W/844G Fiberglass woofers the Seas L22RN4X/P (H1208) and the Audax HM210C0. Sorry I thought he had the Paper cone woofers already my mistake he doesn't have them. He is looking at floor standing speakers a simple 2 way. I hope this helps. N.S.
 
you can't just put any drive unit in any size box and hope to get a decent sound, they need to be matched for each other. The tweeter needs to take over duties from the mid range, and crossover frequency, as well as slope need to be carefully chosen. You will get a sound, but it is likely to sound like a pair of loudspeakers playing music, rather than a band/orchestra playing the music.

I suggest you have a look at kit 'speakers, maybe not to buy, but to give you some idea of what you need. You also need to take into account the relative efficiency of each drive unit.
 
you can't just put any drive unit in any size box and hope to get a decent sound, they need to be matched for each other. The tweeter needs to take over duties from the mid range, and crossover frequency, as well as slope need to be carefully chosen. You will get a sound, but it is likely to sound like a pair of loudspeakers playing music, rather than a band/orchestra playing the music.

I suggest you have a look at kit 'speakers, maybe not to buy, but to give you some idea of what you need. You also need to take into account the relative efficiency of each drive unit.


Yes I understand what your say but, I was hoping it would be not in a kit and built from the ground up. Okay here's a example. lets say the woofer tops of at 3,000 khz. Then the Tweeter is from 800 khz to 20,000 khz. So if we choose a 12 DB cross Over. It might go like this. The tweeter cross's over at 900 khz and the woofer at 1,000 khz is this right? I can do the math on the crossovers and the cabinets as well as the post and so on? I just don't know how to match the drivers together? That is were I need the help? I did build a 2 way speaekr for my a fmily member 10 years ago and it used a seas silk dome tweeter and a 6 1/2 inch silver flute woofer. I am a bit rusty on my multi way skills so that is why I have come here for help? N.S.
 
SB29RDC is an example of an inexpensive, great all around performance tweeter. It would work well in any conventional design, with any conventional woofer, at any conventional crossover point and slope.By the way, 1 kHz is not a conventional crossover point, even with very steep slopes.(your Hz and kHz's are a little mixed up, but I know what you're trying to say).
 
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SB29RDC is an example of an inexpensive, great all around performance tweeter. It would work well in any conventional design, with any conventional woofer, at any conventional crossover point and slope.By the way, 1 kHz is not a conventional crossover point, even with very steep slopes.


Well what crossover point would be good then 1,200 khz or 1,400 khz or 2,200 khz or 2,400 khz or 3, 200 khz? I was just giving a example to see if I was on the right track. I was not going to cross the tweeter over at 1,000 khz. Now if the tweeter went down to 700 hz I would cross it over at 800 hz and the woofer 900 hz. This is what I have been told. Is this right? N.S.
 
my vote for a great all around tweeter - SEAS 22TFF
re:'if the tweeter went down to 700 hz I would cross it over at 800 hz and the woofer 900 hz. This is what I have been told. Is this right? " - no, first choose your mid-woofer, then a tweeter that will integrate well with it. The rule of thumb is to cross over at least an octave above the tweeter's Fs. Once you have the Frequency response graphs of both drivers, then you're in a position to make an approprate choice of crossover frequency, & deal with their out-of-band behaviour in the crossover
 
I'm still not sure I'm following you, but a good typical 2nd order crossover point is 2.5 kHz. There are many, many variables involved even in the most simple of designs though. If you want to pursue this topic further, there are some really good, relatively easy to understand books on the subject.
1,200khz? Bats can't even hear that high. You mean 1,200hz.
 
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I'm still not sure I'm following you, but a good typical 2nd order crossover point is 2.5 kHz. There are many, many variables involved even in the most simple of designs though. If you want to pursue this topic further, there are some really good, relatively easy to understand books on the subject.
1,200khz? Bats can't even hear that high. You mean 1,200hz.


Hello Yes my fault. I was trying to say 1,200 hz not khz. Okay good to know again it's been years so I will have to study up before I buy. Thanks again. N.S.
 
my vote for a great all around tweeter - SEAS 22TFF
re:'if the tweeter went down to 700 hz I would cross it over at 800 hz and the woofer 900 hz. This is what I have been told. Is this right? " - no, first choose your mid-woofer, then a tweeter that will integrate well with it. The rule of thumb is to cross over at least an octave above the tweeter's Fs. Once you have the Frequency response graphs of both drivers, then you're in a position to make an approprate choice of crossover frequency, & deal with their out-of-band behaviour in the crossover


Okay thank you for your help. N.S.