Hey
I'm in the proces of putting together a semi-DIY turntable. Wondered if you guys have any thoughts on the plan so far. Here it is:
Turntable:
I'll probably go with this aluminium / tungsten platter with a maglev bearing. It's also used in Troels Graversens build if you've seen that before. This is quite a lot cheaper than most alternatives (considered VPI platters and such, but their prices are just outragous)
- https://destiny-audio.com/products/...maglev-bearing-for-diy?variant=40628555677807
Drive system (will be seperate from plinth):
Valhalla electronics Zeus controller and a premotec 31813 motor. I'm pretty sure this motor control system (with a tachometer) has been around this sub before. I believe that the guy building these is the user Scobham, if i'm not mistaken. I'm still looking for a pulley with the correct dimensions (40 mm) - asked a Nottingham distributor for their pulley dimensions as they use a similar system, but no answer yet.
- https://www.valhallaelectronics.com/product/zeus-controller/
Tonearm?
In doubt, maybe a Rega rb880 or a Clearaudio Verify. I'm not too comfortable buying used tonearms.
Plinth:
Honestly I'm probaly gonna do layers of plywood with an outer layer of some pretty wood. I'm considering using an mdf - aluminium - mdf combo (has been discussed a lot on this sub before), but i'd have to finde someone with a CNC machine. The plinth is gonna be the last thing i make, I'll build a temporary table just to see everything work first, and then test out some material.
I'm in the proces of putting together a semi-DIY turntable. Wondered if you guys have any thoughts on the plan so far. Here it is:
Turntable:
I'll probably go with this aluminium / tungsten platter with a maglev bearing. It's also used in Troels Graversens build if you've seen that before. This is quite a lot cheaper than most alternatives (considered VPI platters and such, but their prices are just outragous)
- https://destiny-audio.com/products/...maglev-bearing-for-diy?variant=40628555677807
Drive system (will be seperate from plinth):
Valhalla electronics Zeus controller and a premotec 31813 motor. I'm pretty sure this motor control system (with a tachometer) has been around this sub before. I believe that the guy building these is the user Scobham, if i'm not mistaken. I'm still looking for a pulley with the correct dimensions (40 mm) - asked a Nottingham distributor for their pulley dimensions as they use a similar system, but no answer yet.
- https://www.valhallaelectronics.com/product/zeus-controller/
Tonearm?
In doubt, maybe a Rega rb880 or a Clearaudio Verify. I'm not too comfortable buying used tonearms.
Plinth:
Honestly I'm probaly gonna do layers of plywood with an outer layer of some pretty wood. I'm considering using an mdf - aluminium - mdf combo (has been discussed a lot on this sub before), but i'd have to finde someone with a CNC machine. The plinth is gonna be the last thing i make, I'll build a temporary table just to see everything work first, and then test out some material.
Sounds like a nice high end setup.
I really like the good Rega arms (300 and up), but you might want to invest in a way to adjust height as part of your design. And consider the Mitchell Technoarm, or the Audiomods Series Six.
You can also check out the Opera 12" tonearm from diyhifisupply.com.
I really like the good Rega arms (300 and up), but you might want to invest in a way to adjust height as part of your design. And consider the Mitchell Technoarm, or the Audiomods Series Six.
You can also check out the Opera 12" tonearm from diyhifisupply.com.
Hi, Thats a very expensive way to due it.
Cheaper suggestions
1st use a Lenco 78 (not 75) balanced platter. $80
2nd Lenco bearing, standard $35, manuctactured top notch $180.
3rd Motor Maxon or one of many others DC voltage, fitted to it's own pod.
4th Controller many options, certainly cheaper than $400.
5th Most important use a Mylar belt to run the unit.
6th fit to sand filled plinth
7th buy 12'' kit arm from TemaadAudio.
That will make up a T/T package that can trade blows with anything up to $5000.
Cheers
Cheaper suggestions
1st use a Lenco 78 (not 75) balanced platter. $80
2nd Lenco bearing, standard $35, manuctactured top notch $180.
3rd Motor Maxon or one of many others DC voltage, fitted to it's own pod.
4th Controller many options, certainly cheaper than $400.
5th Most important use a Mylar belt to run the unit.
6th fit to sand filled plinth
7th buy 12'' kit arm from TemaadAudio.
That will make up a T/T package that can trade blows with anything up to $5000.
Cheers
Attachments
Hey, thanks for the tip. Do you mean the turntable or the tonearm height? My one thing with Rega is also the missing VTA, but I figured that I would just alter the plinth or use shims if neccessary. I'll check out those arms, I was actually going to make a separate post about picking the tonearm since I have no clue about this (I've only tried the tonearm fitted to my Luxman).
Hey DNIC
I thought about going the Maxon route, but I don't want motor drift (so I would prefer a tachometer controlled module) and I don't know how to build a good quality speed controller myself. I looked at Origin Live, but they are know for their terrible quality. Now this premotec - zeus combo is something i know works (a lot of people use it in the lp12 and the motor is used in countless turntables).
I'll definetly check out the lenco platter though, do you know where I can find a good bearing for it. Most on ebay are older and I would prefer new. Also you specify L78, on ebay all I can find is platters marked as L78/75. Where is the platter you're referring to.
As for the tonearm, i really don't want to go into the endeavor of building my own... but I'll check it out nonetheless.
Edit:
Also, that's a lovely looking turntable, if you have anymore tips I'd love to hear them.
For the platter, do look at a Rega acrylic platter (on Amazon for like $80, over 1" thick) or a Rega 6 glass platter (about $120). And a Tangospinner bearing and subplatter. I have been very happy with mine.
As for the motor controller, that is a long road. If you do want to build you own, there are microcontrollers (Arduino) and motor driver boards and software (SimpleFOC) that are actually easy to use, and just require a little bit of programming (using a very easy to use Arduino application running on your Mac or PC). And we can help you with the code, super simple. I have my TT running great spec wize (equal to a Rega RP 6 or a Project 2Xperience), with the ability to continue to tweek and optimize. The microprocessor hardware costs about $50, the software is free, and an amazing motor from Anaheim, Maxon, or Portescap would run between $100-$250 (with Maxon being the top but also the best with the most poles). (I use an Anaheim motor for $100).
As for the motor controller, that is a long road. If you do want to build you own, there are microcontrollers (Arduino) and motor driver boards and software (SimpleFOC) that are actually easy to use, and just require a little bit of programming (using a very easy to use Arduino application running on your Mac or PC). And we can help you with the code, super simple. I have my TT running great spec wize (equal to a Rega RP 6 or a Project 2Xperience), with the ability to continue to tweek and optimize. The microprocessor hardware costs about $50, the software is free, and an amazing motor from Anaheim, Maxon, or Portescap would run between $100-$250 (with Maxon being the top but also the best with the most poles). (I use an Anaheim motor for $100).
Attachments
Hi, I actually use the Portescap in the rig shown. It has been running for over two years now 3-4 hours per day & is still perfectly quiet and stable, get around 0.05 Wow. The key for belt driven is the motor pulley, any slightest wobble will show up in wow.
The tonearm I mentioned is available in kit form, (2 hours to assemble) which is how I went & upgraded to a Magnesium wand. Had a moded Rega RB300 & the Temaad arm was a massive improvement. It is even considered better that the Audiomods.
Cheers
The tonearm I mentioned is available in kit form, (2 hours to assemble) which is how I went & upgraded to a Magnesium wand. Had a moded Rega RB300 & the Temaad arm was a massive improvement. It is even considered better that the Audiomods.
Cheers
Why try to build a belt drive tt when you can build a nice idler table?
Get a Lenco , both L75 and L78 have balanced platter. In fact L75 would be better as 78 has some extra parts for the auto stop that you won't be able to use.
Get a PTP5 kit
Get Nigel's speed controller or as an alternative there are some sine wave based controller projects here , check those.
Build a Permali plinth.
Use a nice tonearm cartridge and enjoy the music..
Check these videos .
Complete information on the above projects is available on Lencoheaven forum.
Regards,
Get a Lenco , both L75 and L78 have balanced platter. In fact L75 would be better as 78 has some extra parts for the auto stop that you won't be able to use.
Get a PTP5 kit
Get Nigel's speed controller or as an alternative there are some sine wave based controller projects here , check those.
Build a Permali plinth.
Use a nice tonearm cartridge and enjoy the music..
Check these videos .
Complete information on the above projects is available on Lencoheaven forum.
Regards,
I considered doing a Rega build. If i did that i'd probably also use their motor kit with a neo psu, but high mass turntables just speak to me more... I've actually found all the parts for it, and it was cheaper than this one but...
That may very well sound better and be cheaper, but I'm going belt drive for the appeal... If I just wanted a nice turntable I'd probably just get a Technics tbh... This is both a hobby project and it's to give me a turntable I feel like I want to listen to (sentimental value). Judging by pure sound quality, I'd probably just stream anyway.
Hi, The top and bottom are from an off-cut of a kitchen sink bench. Turned to the correct diameter, I have a lathe.
The center body is from gluing 3 or 4 layers of wood together.
1 - mark the inner diameter & outer diameter with a caliper.
2 - with a hole saw cut out the center bore holes (about 70mm dia)
3 - cut around the outer dia.
4 - glue together.
5 - Turn down on lathe the outer & inner to the diameters required.
6 - Sand to finish (lots of sanding!!)
7 - assemble.
Note there are 3 S/Steel pointed feet on the bottom.
Cheers
The center body is from gluing 3 or 4 layers of wood together.
1 - mark the inner diameter & outer diameter with a caliper.
2 - with a hole saw cut out the center bore holes (about 70mm dia)
3 - cut around the outer dia.
4 - glue together.
5 - Turn down on lathe the outer & inner to the diameters required.
6 - Sand to finish (lots of sanding!!)
7 - assemble.
Note there are 3 S/Steel pointed feet on the bottom.
Cheers
Love creating hifi equipment
Joined 2023
Paid Member
Of course, the vibration of the magnetically suspended shaft is relatively small, so it is a good choice.
There are many materials that can be used for the base. For example: aluminum alloy, acrylic, birch plywood, cast iron, etc.
There are many materials that can be used for the base. For example: aluminum alloy, acrylic, birch plywood, cast iron, etc.
The only way to get close to High End table is to HAVE a high end table for reality check purpose . It is a pretty enlightening experience almost no DIY folk has in ANY audio related subject.
Well first of all, I disagree. A lot of DIY'ers have the same knowledge small time manufacturers do. They also use the same parts, machining methods etc.
Second of all, I have my Luxman for "reality check purpose"
Thirdly, I'm pretty sure I made it quite clear that this is a hobby project?
Nobody ever agrees on Diy forum 🙂
There is nothing wrong with a hobby project but to make something which " can trade a blows with $5000 tables " the chances are close to zero.
There is nothing wrong with a hobby project but to make something which " can trade a blows with $5000 tables " the chances are close to zero.
Hi,
Are you sure the driving system you plan to use can well drive a 8 Kg platter?
Plinth: Material is important, best one I used was mahogany solid wood with leads glued in the inside.
TA: the choice is soooo wide. I have a modded Rega 250, but there is better TA at reasonable price. Supatrac is one of them, however TA depend on the cart u plan to use as their matching is important.
Rgds
Adelmo
Hi,
Some manufacturer of high end components/TA/TT at the beginning of their business adventure started as DIYers in a ..... garage, therefore I feel to disagree a bit in what you quoted.
Rgds
Adelmo
Hi Limo is correct. You really at very least need to have listening access to a high end table to know what the sound should be like. Also live concerts acoustic concerts & solo piano.
But I disagree that it is not achievable, because I did it. I also luckily listen to a grand piano in a brilliant acoustic space virtually every week.
Cheers
But I disagree that it is not achievable, because I did it. I also luckily listen to a grand piano in a brilliant acoustic space virtually every week.
Cheers
Hi,
High end table, but what about the high end cart, the high end pre phono, the high end Pre Amp, high end Final, high end speakers, his end cable, room treatment and so on. Perhaps also the need to clean hears too that sometimes worth like an hifi upgrade.
I think is possible to DIY build a high end table, but how about the rest of the set up ? Perhaps the words High End often it is over quoted.
Rgds
Adelmo
High end table, but what about the high end cart, the high end pre phono, the high end Pre Amp, high end Final, high end speakers, his end cable, room treatment and so on. Perhaps also the need to clean hears too that sometimes worth like an hifi upgrade.
I think is possible to DIY build a high end table, but how about the rest of the set up ? Perhaps the words High End often it is over quoted.
Rgds
Adelmo