I'm looking for the way to make my system sound better. I think that DRC, digital crossovers and tri-amping it the way to go. I'm looking at Behringer DCX2496 (with new clock, PSU, DACs and volume control). I have B&K 3030 which I'd like to use with either bass or midrange section. Which amps I should consider to build? Is it better to use solid state for midrange and SE tube one (like 300B) for tweeter? I'd like to avoid extremely high voltages (>300V) and power consumption > 2kW total.
Bass driver - 35-200Hz - 100W
Midrange - 200-1700Hz - 90W
Tweeter - 1700-40000 - 14W
Bass driver - 35-200Hz - 100W
Midrange - 200-1700Hz - 90W
Tweeter - 1700-40000 - 14W
The only down side to the Behringer is that you can't import/measure driver correction responses so you are left to correct any deviations from perfection with the parametric & shelving filters available.
Personally, I think a true correcting DSP crossover like the DEQX 2.1 is the only way to go.
As for amps, that's a very personal preference and I think you'll get all answers to that here. Some like the mellow sweetness of tubes, others like the precision of transistors. I'd get the thing up and running with whatever you have available and then start tweaking.
That's the fun of it right?!?
Personally, I think a true correcting DSP crossover like the DEQX 2.1 is the only way to go.
As for amps, that's a very personal preference and I think you'll get all answers to that here. Some like the mellow sweetness of tubes, others like the precision of transistors. I'd get the thing up and running with whatever you have available and then start tweaking.
That's the fun of it right?!?
I am not sure about DCX2496. I'm thinking also about buing some external multichennel soundcard like Lynx Aurora 8 and running 7(3*2 + sub) long FIR filters for DRC and crossover on PC. So only one thing is certain now - I need 2 more amps 🙂Iain McNeill said:The only down side to the Behringer is that you can't import/measure driver correction responses so you are left to correct any deviations from perfection with the parametric & shelving filters available.
Personally, I think a true correcting DSP crossover like the DEQX 2.1 is the only way to go.
One of the options is to combine best of both worlds. Just not sure how these 2 types will blend together. Also there are gazillion DIY amp projects, and I'm not sure what to look at.As for amps, that's a very personal preference and I think you'll get all answers to that here. Some like the mellow sweetness of tubes, others like the precision of transistors. I'd get the thing up and running with whatever you have available and then start tweaking.
That's the fun of it right?!?
3.3 Ohms tweeter protected by 2amp fuse, and I saw the pictures of blown 3.6 tweeters on this forum. Also I'm not sure that I even need 12W: I typically run these speakers on 30W total, but it is nice to have headroomsreten said:Hi, I'd say you need 40W for the tweeter, 🙂/sreten.
stolbovoy said:
3.3 Ohms tweeter protected by 2amp fuse, and I saw the pictures of blown 3.6 tweeters on this forum. Also I'm not sure that I even need 12W: I typically run these speakers on 30W total, but it is nice to have headroom
Hi,
Ratio of bass/mid/ treble amps I'd say ~ 40%, 40%, 20%.
Peak treble levels are far in excess of the average levels.
🙂/sreten.
I'm personally running 6 channels of Douglas Self's Class G amp (see Wireless World Dec 2001 & Jan 2002 or in his book "Audio Power Amplifier Design" These have been running flawlessly for 5 years now and I would recommend them to anyone - they are truly "blameless"
Now if I could only get my speakers and my room to perform as well!
Now if I could only get my speakers and my room to perform as well!
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