transistor pin out list.

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This might help some of you out there like me who are learning


i spent ages back an forth the the PC looking


It hasnt got them all, but the popular ones i have come across so far, and you can add to it as you come across more



might help you looking 🙂
 

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Yes I can see that. I mean the view of the device. Top view, bottom view.

Like in the attached example. Those differ per manu and data sheet. It's a mess and you need to check, recheck, double check.
It's a good idea to make such a list but ideally it should have the image of the device next to the pinout so you know the orientation.

Jan
 

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Like in the attached example. Those differ per manu and data sheet. It's a mess and you need to check, recheck, double check.
Funny thing is, in Jan´s attached example "physical pin order is the same on both" and you can insert any in the same PCB hole array, BUT the "assigned" numbers "1 - 2 - 3" are in reverse.

Meaning *just* stating "1 - 2 - 3" is not enough.

Agree that a "package/case" view is needed.
 
When I use transistors like those, I make it a point to check the transistors' pinout immediately before I solder them in place. I also avoid to manipulate a transistors layout mentally, as with age, spatial ability is greatly diminished, at least, it happened with me.

Like an idiot, use a humble pencil and paper: it will save you unnecessary headaches.
 
Funny thing is, in Jan´s attached example "physical pin order is the same on both" and you can insert any in the same PCB hole array, BUT the "assigned" numbers "1 - 2 - 3" are in reverse.

Meaning *just* stating "1 - 2 - 3" is not enough.

Agree that a "package/case" view is needed.


ones a 550 the other 559, so they are different not in reverse, but you are right


i always check whats fitted against whats specified and what the board actualy is, it just saves a bit of time going back and forth when you are sure what is fitted etc and it is usefull to have in front of you when testing, well i found it usefull anyway.
 
I just use the hFE test on a regular DMM. Reverse beta is almost always much lower.

European 2N’s can often go CBE instead of EBC, but not always. Definitely have to check EU 2N’s. Fairchild KSA/KSC can be ordered in both EBC and ECB, with slight differences to the full part number. And I’ve seen a couple instances where Mouser’s stock number is for ECB version according to the data sheet, but you get EBC. I mark it on the parts drawer when they go into my stock.
 
The green screened device posted by Mark Johnson above, inevitably causes one's logic wetware, to ponder about the way it can decide for itself what a transistor's three pins are. If an algorithm designed for a microprocessor can do it, it can be done in other ways more accessible to human beings.

How is it done?

One way is the BJT diode test. This can find the base with certainty, but the emitter and collector give the same result, hence they are not distinguishible. Another way that springs to mind, is to use the avalanche voltage for the junctions, but feeding current through a very low current very high impedance current source. The junction which gives about 5V should be the base-emitter junction.
 
I just use the hFE test on a regular DMM. Reverse beta is almost always much lower.

That.
Same here, raw diode test can be inconclusive, since you have TWO diodes inside, pointing towards/away from Base, BUT although reversed transistor does work reversed, Hfe is abysmal.

Forward it´s what´s expected, say 200 to 500; reversed it´s about 10X smaller, say 30 to 50.

Agree that measuring Vbe "zenering" is also accurate, but requires a little more "hardware".

Old enough to remember when Zeners were fancy expensive parts, and it was *common* to use a reverse biased transistor as reference.

Oh well, miss those dinosaur steak BBQs 🙁
 
With a 5V DC power supply, a 1μA can be obtained using a resistance of 5MΩ or approximately using a 4.7MΩ. This can be applied to the base while the transistor is connected in common emitter mode. The current through the collector would need a milliammeter of a few milliamps.

This arrangement can work for all those who do not have a multimeter which can measure Hfe. With a base current of 1μA, the collector current would be between 200μA and 500μA. Be aware there are transistors which have higher or lower Hfe.

In my case, I look up the transistor's datasheet when this is available.