I ordered 1/8 aluminum top plate for my sse. I hope this will hold the large edcors and choke. Never having worked much metal I will listen to any advise. I read somewhere that wood drill bits work. Does this also count for holes +_1" Size wise 12X16 seems good. I have a drill press,band saw,tablesaw and routertable. Metal looks tough
You will probably get some flex towards the center. I beefed up mine by adding a "beam" made from aluminum 90^ angle stock from the hardware store. Aluminum cuts fairly well with wood tools, though metal tools are better. With plenty of oil, large holes can be cut slowly on the drill press using hole saws or even flat wood bits (though they will wear quickly).
With a drill press you're halfway there, get some step drill bits like these
3 X HSS Steel High Speed Step Drill Bits 4-32mm 4-20mm 4-12mm | eBay
These can drill holes from 1/4 inch to 1-3/8 inch diameter. Mark where
you holes should be on the plate, use a punch to make an indentation
precisely at the center of these holes, clamp your plate on the drill press
and drill the required size of hole.
Google 'step drill bit' for lots more information.
Step bits are nice, but they only go so big. A cheap hole saw set with oil and a drill press on its slowest speed go a long way. That is how I drilled all these large holes on my SSE:
I'd just add that it helps to drill an 1/8" hole after marking with an awl or punch, then using the step bit or hole saw to keep the step bit from wandering. Most drill presses, mine included, have a lot of run-out, i.e., the bit tip rotates in a wider circle than it's actual size.
Also, don't skimp on hole saws. The one piece cheapos at home centers will not last through more than a couple of wood-borings, let alone metal. The branded, separate arbor and bit ones, Rigid or Cobalt or Milwaukee, etc., do hold up over time.
This 12x17x1/8" aluminum top plate holds this one great big Hammond with no flex
Whenever I cut aluminum on my table saw, I use an 80 tooth carbide blade with the metal double-faced taped to a piece of plywood. Lowes sells a blue-colored backing tape in the paint section that even sticks parts well enough for using a router. You could also hold the metal to the plywood with a toggle clamp or two. Using the plywood keeps the metal from diving under the fence or flying up off the blade or kicking back. All three of those conditions will result in loss of blood and body parts!
One more thing...after 10 years and many holes drilled, the pilot bit in the arbor may break with resulting catastrophic damage to your workpiece. These pilot bits appear to be cheap "pot metal" and I've now replaced them with good HSS bits.
Also, don't skimp on hole saws. The one piece cheapos at home centers will not last through more than a couple of wood-borings, let alone metal. The branded, separate arbor and bit ones, Rigid or Cobalt or Milwaukee, etc., do hold up over time.
This 12x17x1/8" aluminum top plate holds this one great big Hammond with no flex
Whenever I cut aluminum on my table saw, I use an 80 tooth carbide blade with the metal double-faced taped to a piece of plywood. Lowes sells a blue-colored backing tape in the paint section that even sticks parts well enough for using a router. You could also hold the metal to the plywood with a toggle clamp or two. Using the plywood keeps the metal from diving under the fence or flying up off the blade or kicking back. All three of those conditions will result in loss of blood and body parts!
One more thing...after 10 years and many holes drilled, the pilot bit in the arbor may break with resulting catastrophic damage to your workpiece. These pilot bits appear to be cheap "pot metal" and I've now replaced them with good HSS bits.
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