I was just given a Tivoli model one (circa 2000) and was told it "doesn't work". Well it does work...kind of. Power indicator lights, tuning LED works as it should, If the volume is turned all the way up and you put your ear right next to the speaker sound is heard. Actual stations tune in clearly just at extremely low volume. If you turn the volume control down, sound slowly disappears. So unit does work, just no volume. I have it apart and have checked all solder joints, connections, etc. No components look burnt etc. I am wondering where to begin looking for the problem. Possibly the amplifier IC? (it is a TDA7266), or would the electrolytics be a better place to start being the radio is 13 years old? It would be nice to have a schematic but from what I have found so far there is none available. I hate to toss the radio as it is in perfect shape otherwise.
Thanks for any help, Tim
Thanks for any help, Tim
Download the datasheet of TDA7266 and check the voltages first,then look for the signal input pins of the IC and check voltage across the two input pins. If it is not in mVolts, the IC is faulty or a component around it is.
If there is a line out check if it is working. Mostly it will be.
There are other simple methods of checking whether the TDA is good, but if I write about it, many will not approve and you will be advised to check signal at the input of the power amp using an oscilloscope by feeding a signal.......
Gajanan Phadte
If there is a line out check if it is working. Mostly it will be.
There are other simple methods of checking whether the TDA is good, but if I write about it, many will not approve and you will be advised to check signal at the input of the power amp using an oscilloscope by feeding a signal.......
Gajanan Phadte
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Most reasons for all kind of not correct operatings rises up by bad solder joints and connections - the build quality (China Made) is on the lowest level. Schematics are online in the meantime - as I know.
check out this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/181335-tivoli-model-one-vs-klh-model-twenty-one.html
check out this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/181335-tivoli-model-one-vs-klh-model-twenty-one.html
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Help
Where are Schematics available online for the Tivoli Model 1? I have had no luck finding a schematic for the Model 1. Tivoli suggest that I return the radio and pay the repair fee because I am beyond the warranted period. My model 1 has developed an issue with horribly distorting bass even at low volume. I am wondering if there is any sort of adjustment that can be made to alleviate this issue? The driver is good and the issue seems to be in the amp section as the headphone jack (I'm assuming this is a preamp stage out) is not affected by this distortion.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks Dave
Where are Schematics available online for the Tivoli Model 1? I have had no luck finding a schematic for the Model 1. Tivoli suggest that I return the radio and pay the repair fee because I am beyond the warranted period. My model 1 has developed an issue with horribly distorting bass even at low volume. I am wondering if there is any sort of adjustment that can be made to alleviate this issue? The driver is good and the issue seems to be in the amp section as the headphone jack (I'm assuming this is a preamp stage out) is not affected by this distortion.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks Dave
the same effect I observe at my own device in a similar kind. Mostly there is an unwanted transition resistance or interruption present. In my case the faulty part was the rotary switch (4x3) from Lorlin. This switch don't have a high quality level. I don't replace the switch. Instead this I linked by soldering all connections only for FM and cannot use longer the other modes (AM, AUX OFF). An additional benefit resp. advantage I will get:
A real "OFF" mode by use of an additional external main switch (in the genuine topology the off-mode was create in the low voltage line - this means, the transformer and the line-/power amp are still connected to the mains).
But there is also a disadvantage:
A hard popping just after switch-off by the main switch. The reason therefore is the fact, that the volume control isn't located between the output of the line/equalizer stage and the input of the power amp stage. Instead this the volume control is located at the input of the line/equalizer stage.
Who know an advice for an easy way to remove this unwanted popping after switch-off by an external main switch ?
Thank you for your advices.
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