Does anyone know if applying copper tape to the bottom of the top plate of a Thorens 124 will eliminate cartridge and motor interference? I have extra copper tape lying around. I have a Nagaoka MM that creates a loud high pitch buzz from the speakers, which gets louder when the cartridge is over the record.
Thanks
Thanks
Does this only happen with this particular cartridge? If so, please check (multimeter) whether it connects left and right channel returns together by any chance (Grados are notorious fo this), or whether either is connected to the tonearm. You want none of all this. As a workaround for the former, you can leave one channel's ground return unplugged from the cartridge.
Other potential causes of such issues include:
* bad contact at cartridge or headshell
* tonearm tube not hooked up to ground connection (hence no electrostatic shielding)
Please try eliminating all of these before proceeding.
Other potential causes of such issues include:
* bad contact at cartridge or headshell
* tonearm tube not hooked up to ground connection (hence no electrostatic shielding)
Please try eliminating all of these before proceeding.
No, copper tape will do nothing against a low frequency magnetic field. Your best bet is wrapping motor in mu-metal.
You don't block magnetic fields with the metal, you conduct (aid) them. Use metal to wrap the motor, essentially aiding the magnetic field path (must return like a current).
jh
You don't block magnetic fields with the metal, you conduct (aid) them. Use metal to wrap the motor, essentially aiding the magnetic field path (must return like a current).
jh
On the other hand, since you have a buzz, it is more likely a missing ground connection and not magnetic coupling...
jh
jh
I own several of these tables, are the chassis and arm both grounded?
I did not think that Nagaoka cartridges had a big problem with either magnetic or electrostatic hum pickup.
In most cases it makes sense to ground the chassis and arm to your pre-amplifier.
Grounding the chassis to safety ground works well and is what I do on one of the two tables I own. (Arm is separately grounded to pre-amp ground, pre-amp has safety ground and no potential difference of significance between the two.)
Also try flipping the AC plug.
Copper tape will not help as others have pointed out.
Make sure the mu-metal shield plate is installed on the motor mounts, and the ground wired between the motor frame and the chassis is in place.
Do not wrap the motor in mu-metal unless you want to run the risk of serious overheating, these motors as you have probably noticed run very hot. (Shaded pole induction motor)
I started a TD-124 thread here about 9 years ago which is still active and has a lot of useful information.
I did not think that Nagaoka cartridges had a big problem with either magnetic or electrostatic hum pickup.
In most cases it makes sense to ground the chassis and arm to your pre-amplifier.
Grounding the chassis to safety ground works well and is what I do on one of the two tables I own. (Arm is separately grounded to pre-amp ground, pre-amp has safety ground and no potential difference of significance between the two.)
Also try flipping the AC plug.
Copper tape will not help as others have pointed out.
Make sure the mu-metal shield plate is installed on the motor mounts, and the ground wired between the motor frame and the chassis is in place.
Do not wrap the motor in mu-metal unless you want to run the risk of serious overheating, these motors as you have probably noticed run very hot. (Shaded pole induction motor)
I started a TD-124 thread here about 9 years ago which is still active and has a lot of useful information.
I own several of these tables, are the chassis and arm both grounded?
I did not think that Nagaoka cartridges had a big problem with either magnetic or electrostatic hum pickup.
In most cases it makes sense to ground the chassis and arm to your pre-amplifier.
Grounding the chassis to safety ground works well and is what I do on one of the two tables I own. (Arm is separately grounded to pre-amp ground, pre-amp has safety ground and no potential difference of significance between the two.)
Also try flipping the AC plug.
Copper tape will not help as others have pointed out.
Make sure the mu-metal shield plate is installed on the motor mounts, and the ground wired between the motor frame and the chassis is in place.
Do not wrap the motor in mu-metal unless you want to run the risk of serious overheating, these motors as you have probably noticed run very hot. (Shaded pole induction motor)
I started a TD-124 thread here about 9 years ago which is still active and has a lot of useful information.
I will try grounding the chassis. I have not done that before. The buzz is on the tweeter probably above 3k. This really only happens with this cart, which leads me to believe, that it is something with the stylus assembly connection to the body that is creating this reaction with the motor. I will try grounding and possibly lining the top platter underneath with a thin mumetal sheet you can get on Ebay. Not sure about that, but the mumetal underlayer couldn't hurt with MC carts as well.
I appreciate all the responses and I apologize for the late reply; had a torn knee that threw me off track and I lost track of all the threads that I posted on.
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