You introduced me to the use of compression driver particular the non-titanium type.
I bought B&C DE 10 mylar membrane and the compatible B&C horn. The cross over is around 2.5Khz. excellent sound stage, smooth sound, and very dynamic. The total price for each combo is less than US$60.
Those who want to try let me know I will let you the ordering part nos. from PE.
Cheers.
I bought B&C DE 10 mylar membrane and the compatible B&C horn. The cross over is around 2.5Khz. excellent sound stage, smooth sound, and very dynamic. The total price for each combo is less than US$60.
Those who want to try let me know I will let you the ordering part nos. from PE.
Cheers.
You're welcome! I am listening to mine right now driven by a little PP El84 amp. They are as good as the ultra expensive TADs in the high treble in my humble opinion. Save money, buy more beer and records. 😀
Hi,
I'm considering using these with my fostex FE207E's since there is not enough treble.. I know I could just use tweeter (B&C DE32 looks good) but I might end up cutting off the whizzer (to get rid of the peaks) and with DE10 I'll have more room for experimenting with crossover freqv..
What do you guys think? Will it work?
martin
I'm considering using these with my fostex FE207E's since there is not enough treble.. I know I could just use tweeter (B&C DE32 looks good) but I might end up cutting off the whizzer (to get rid of the peaks) and with DE10 I'll have more room for experimenting with crossover freqv..
What do you guys think? Will it work?
martin
sumacSK said:
IMHO the compression does not match the FE207E. if you want tweeter for full range like FE207E use Piezo, I have tried them before it works well. If you want details let me know.
J and G
details of CD and horn, the combo works very well, go to audiocircle.
ttan98 said:
What might work well is the compression driver and no horn or a very short horn.
Piezo's make great super tweeters. The Motorola's seem best. Most people will laugh but they can sound as good as an expensive ribbon in the top octave IME.
ttan98 said:
Is there a simple way how to explain why is this so?
As I said I might cut off the whizzer, so I'd like to have a possibility to cross as low as ~3KHz.
What about this horn: http://prodance.netdirect.cz/DetailPage.asp?DPG=83911 seems pretty suitable..
Thanks Martin
sumacSK said:
As you read carefully it is only my opinion and I have not tested it with a full ranger.
If you have tested them together maybe you like to
explain further, possibly it worthwhile to try it(CD) with short neck horn. Your sample maybe a good example to try however I am too far to get hold of one.
You maybe aware CD needs to match with the horn you use, your horn may not be a good match. The B&C CD and horn I am using seems to be a good match. This combo is very cheap about US$60.
Magnetar said:
Are you talking about the little thin discs that cost a few cents each (in quantity)? I experimented with some of those trying to add something like a whizzer cone, I couldn't manage to build one that worked very well, but I saw a decent implementation where they glue a thin aluminum foil cone to the center to work as an omnidirectional tweeter.
In another thread you asked where I'm from - I replied, but maybe you missed that, I'm in Columbus, you can email me at: critofur@yahoo.com if you like.
critofur said:
No the original Motorola's now known as CTS. They are quite good when used properly.
I'm up near Canton- We have an audio club up here but I'm about the only builder in the group. Mostly music lovers not big 'high end audio' magazine types of people. I will email you when we have the next 'Ears and Beers' gathering. I think there will be one in the next couple of weeks at a friend that has large Tannoy Dual Concentrics. He is on the east side of Cleveland. I will have one after that and you can check out some of my DIY victories and failures. I have built systems for other people but I prefer build systems that are high efficiency rather then little cone and dome systems.
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